The unit cuts off at 8 amps. So, that’s the upper limit and it depends on the salinity and water temperature.
If the water gets to 90 degrees, the amps can hit 8.0 at 3,000 ppm.
They make a “Low Salt” model, which works with a lower salinity. So, you can use a lower salinity, but it takes longer to produce the total amount of chlorine that you need.
You can go down to 2,400 ppm and the cell will still work. Below 2,700, the check salt light will flash, but the cell is still generating. Below 2,400 ppm, the check salt light will be on steady and chlorine production is stopped.
You can go even lower if you change the cell type.
For example, if the salinity reads 2,300 ppm on the display and you change the cell type to T-9, the salinity reading will go to about 3,450 ppm.
The low salt model takes 1200 - 1800 ppm salinity. If you had 1,500 ppm salinity and changed the cell type to T-5, the salinity reading would change to about 3,000 ppm.
If the salinity reading was 1,200 ppm and you changed the Cell type to T-3, the new salinity reading would be about 3,330 ppm.
I think that the lowest you could operate at is 900 ppm with a t-15 cell and a T-3 setting, which should give a salinity reading of about 2,500 ppm.
Any time that you operate equipment outside the recommended parameters, you void the warranty and you do it at your own risk.
If you have a T-15 cell, you can operate down to about 1,200 ppm if you change the cell type to T-3, but the amount of chlorine generated is only about 1/3 and it’s at your own risk.
The cell will still probably generate the same total amount of lifetime chlorine, but it might fail early due to unapproved operations.