Is my plumbing efficient? Let's compare Intelliflo VSF stats!

The pump display shows psi, which is measured as the difference between the suction and pressure side of the pump.

This gives TDH, which allows the software to calculate the flow rate.

12 psi equates to 27.7 feet of head. But that's at full speed. So, maybe about right?
 
4. Yes some Hydrogen gas can be left over from the SWG if run at low rpm. You can check if changing to SPA makes the bubbles appear on the SPA.
5. cant help much there, but could be a flow switch in the heater.

Felipe
 
The pump display shows psi, which is measured as the difference between the suction and pressure side of the pump.

This gives TDH, which allows the software to calculate the flow rate.

12 psi equates to 27.7 feet of head. But that's at full speed. So, maybe about right?
On just the suction side? Much too high for that size plumbing and that many ports open. For 2 parallel paths of 2.5" pipe, that is 2500' of equivalent length each.
 
If all suction ports are open, it does seem a bit high. Maybe clogged pump or skimmer baskets or main drain clogged?

The difference seems to be minimal until the pump gets to full speed.
 
There won't be fixed delta between the pump PSI and filter PSI. The delta should change with flow^2. However, the resolution may not be enough at lower RPM to show that. Also, check valves can throw off that relationship.
 
The only check valve installed is at the spa return.

As mentioned earlier there is no difference in pump psi if I close of all but one suction line. I tried all of them independently including the spa. I guess that would rule out a clog unless the clog is inside 5he manifold?

I remember reading in the pump manual that 5 x pipe diameter should be added as straight pipe into the pump. As you can see on the pictures the pump almost directly goes into the valve. Could this create this issue?
 
As mentioned earlier there is no difference in pump psi if I close of all but one suction line. I tried all of them independently including the spa. I guess that would rule out a clog unless the clog is inside 5he manifold?
You might take apart the pool/spa valve and check the internals for any damage. You could also try to back flush the suction line from the pump inlet to the pool.

I remember reading in the pump manual that 5 x pipe diameter should be added as straight pipe into the pump. As you can see on the pictures the pump almost directly goes into the valve. Could this create this issue?
No. That is really a bogus requirement.
 
Pretty much but is only affecting the bypass flow. It would probably affect the plumbing curve so it won't be a constant over flow rate.
 
You might take apart the pool/spa valve and check the internals for any damage. You could also try to back flush the suction line from the pump inlet to the pool.

No. That is really a bogus requirement.
It's a brand new pool so I don't want to take anything apart myself and void the warranty.

How do I get my intelliflo vsf to go in reverse to back flush? I guess that will also get filter junk in my pool?
 

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To back flush, put a hose in the pump inlet pipe and seal it with a wet rag then turn on the hose. Try to seal it as best you can. It would also be best to back flush each suction line by itself with the others turned off.
 
Oh ok that's different than I imagined it, so I'm just using the pressure of a regular garden hose?

One thing I should have mentioned as well is that the spa/pool actuator on that 3 way valve at the pump inlet is defective. It never goes fully to the SPA side, it gets almost there, then snaps back 15 degrees and keeps doing that in a loop until you manually turn it off. The pool builder said he will come replace it. But now I'm wondering if it's not the actuator but the actual valve that has an issue?
 
Oh ok that's different than I imagined it, so I'm just using the pressure of a regular garden hose?
Yes.

One thing I should have mentioned as well is that the spa/pool actuator on that 3 way valve at the pump inlet is defective. It never goes fully to the SPA side, it gets almost there, then snaps back 15 degrees and keeps doing that in a loop until you manually turn it off. The pool builder said he will come replace it. But now I'm wondering if it's not the actuator but the actual valve that has an issue?
If there was an issue, it would probably be with the valve internals and not the actuator. But it could be that something broke off the valve and that is the reason the actuator cannot move it all the way. So the PB should check the valve internals too.
 
They came out today and opened up the valve and they found a 5 inch long , 1/2 inch thick stick stuck in it. Perfect, problem solved I thought UNTIL i turned the pump back on. No change in pressure or PGM ... actually it got slightly worse, probably because on the suction side, now the valve goes fully in pool mode whereas before it would always pull from both pool and spa and probably have less restriction.

Now that the valve works fine I also have the ability to view the spa only mode. At 2000 rpm I get 40gpm in pool mode (vs 43 gpm before) but only 35gpm in spa mode.

This weekend I plan on doing the back flushing with the garden hose ... but I'm not sure how much it will help. Below you can find some pictures of the plumbing when it was installed.

Any other thoughts on what could be wrong?

20180502_135336.jpg20180502_135340.jpg20180502_135420.jpg20180502_135430.jpg20180502_143608.jpg20180502_143622.jpg20180502_143640.jpg20180502_143656.jpg20180502_143701.jpg
 
I don't want to possibly rain on any "new pool build" parades or "nitpick" the pool builder AND maybe the pool builder knows more than I (they're supposed to be the experts right?), but just curious about the following -

1. The VSF owners manual specifies a min of 10" of straight pipe (for 2" pipe) at the suction side of the pump. Maybe I'm off base, but the photo really doesn't indicate that.


I think the following might even be more important - from the IntelliChlor Installation and User's Guide.

2. CAUTION - Install the IntellliChlor SCG a minimum of three (3) feet away from the heater outlet.
3. Note: For best flow sensing, provide at least 12"-18" of straight pipe in front of the cell inlet.

If there was any warranty issues and the Pentair Rep comes out, wouldn't the excursions from the manual requirements void the warranty? Not sure, just asking. Maybe the builder will accept the liability and make the corrections and honor the warranty at their expense?

Others here may know more about this topic than I.
 
Those are some excellent points AZpool.

Well, seeing as they found the stick in the pipe, I would clean out the plumbing with a hose to make sure nothing else is in there. Make sure to unscrew the eyeballs when you’re doing the return side.
 
The fact that there was a big stick in the valve makes me wonder what else might be in the lines.

I would want the lines flushed out with high flow by putting a pool pump on the suction lines and pulling from the pool side.

Can you rerun the previous tests with the same information for comparison?
 

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