Is a stain/rust/scale inhibitor necessary? And Post SLAM questions.

[ajup2it]

Hi all. So I've been reading where algicides aren't necessary as long as one keeps their pool chemistry dead on (FC, pH, CYA, etc) and I'm now on top of that, having purchased the kit. I've read about the chemicals to use and not to use but I don't see anything on stain/rust/scale inhibitors. The pool company that installed our pool of course recommended a weekly maintenance of an algicide, stain/rust inhibitor, and a non chlorine shock (specifically GLB products: Super Sequa-Sol, Alygimycin 2000, Oxy-Brite), but the more reading I'm doing it seems most of this is unneeded? As a new pool owner, can someone help me understand which, if any, of these products are of any benefit to me? I'm thinking, after reading here, that most are not, but I need a sanity check because I really don't want my pool to go south on me and I'm still learning here.

My next questions are about my pool chemistry after a SLAM. I just got done slamming last week. So my pool is currently setting at:
FC: 18
pH: 7.2
CYA: 80
TA: 160
CH: 350

So I see my FC is still high, TA and CH is high, pH and CYA are in range. Should I just monitor and leave it be or attempt to get the FC, TA and CH closer to recommended levels. No algae that I can see in my pool and the water is crystal clear. Thoughts?

 

[ajw22]

The pool company that installed our pool of course recommended a weekly maintenance of an algicide, stain/rust inhibitor, and a non chlorine shock (specifically GLB products: Super Sequa-Sol, Alygimycin 2000, Oxy-Brite), but the more reading I'm doing it seems most of this is unneeded? As a new pool owner, can someone help me understand which, if any, of these products are of any benefit to me? I'm thinking, after reading here, that most are not, but I need a sanity check because I really don't want my pool to go south on me and I'm still learning here.

All of that stuff is not needed and just transfers money from your wallet to his.

- Keep your water algae free and your FC at the FC/CYA targets following FC/CYA Levels and you don't need Algaecide - Further Reading
-does your water have metals in it? If not then you don't need a stain inhibitor. Watch the pool chemicals you add so that you don't add copper to your water.
-there is no reason to use shock chemicals when you maintain the proper CYA and FC

My next questions are about my pool chemistry after a SLAM. I just got done slamming last week. So my pool is currently setting at:
FC: 18
pH: 7.2
CYA: 80
TA: 160
CH: 350

So I see my FC is still high, TA and CH is high, pH and CYA are in range. Should I just monitor and leave it be or attempt to get the FC, TA and CH closer to recommended levels. No algae that I can see in my pool and the water is crystal clear. Thoughts?

Let your FC to drift down to your target level of 6 naturally.

Your TA and CH are fine.

Focus on managing your FC and pH.

 

[ajup2it]

All fo that stuff is not needed and just transfers money from your wallet to hi.

- Keep your water algae free and your FC at the FC/CYA targets following FC/CYA Levels and you don't need Algaecide - Further Reading
-does your water have metals in it? If not thenyou don;t need a stain inhibitor. Watch the pool chemicals you add so that you don;t add copper to your water.
-there is no reason to use shock chemicals when you maintain the proper CYA and FC





Let your FC to drift down to your target level of 6 naturally.

Your TA and CH are fine.

Focus on managing your FC and pH.

Thank you for your response! I truly appreciate it. One last question...how do I know if I have metals?

 

[Pool_Medic]

If you are using pucks then the store isn’t that far off. Pucks will inevitably cause issues, that’s why they want weekly algaecide dosing and shocking. If none of your white pool parts are showing no brown colouring then you probably don’t need metal sequestrants.

 

[ajup2it]

Guess I'm good to go then. I don't use pucks or know what those are. lol And no brown stains.