Intermac timer stops rotating, manual switch doesn’t turn on either

[Eric2021]

My intermac timer just stopped working, the motor is not rotating and even manual switch doesn’t turn on the pump;
Confirmed the input line to the timer still has 110V power, tightened all the connections, but still doesn’t work;
What should I try next before replacing the whole timer mechanism?

 

[ajw22]

Replace it. They wear out.

 

[Eric2021]

Actually I have two intermac timers one for main pump and another for the booster pump, both have the same issue, they can’t stop working at the same time?
What should be the correct input voltage for model T104M? I have assumed 110V but after some google I think it should be 240V instead? Does that mean I have a bad input power if the voltage between terminal 1 and 3 is 110V instead of 240V?

 

[ajw22]

T104 is 240V clock.

Timers - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Eric2021]

So does that indicate an issue from the incoming wire if they only measure 110V? It was working last week and I don’t imagine it suddenly changed itself, and I’m not even sure where to look next, do I need to call for an electrician?

 

[Eric2021]

Specifically I am measuring the voltage between the red and black wires and it’s around 110V

 

[ajw22]

Check voltage at the circuit breaker it is attached to. It sounds like you lost one leg. Could be a bad CB.

 

[Eric2021]

I can follow the electricity through the power switch and a junction box, but the wire goes below the ground and I don't really know where the circuit breaker is for it; Checked the main circuit breaker inside house and don't find any that's related to the pool timer/pump?

 

[ajw22]

It has to be connected to a CB. An electrician can connect a wire tracer to it to identify the CB feeding it.

Klein Tools Digital Circuit Breaker Finder with GFCI Outlet Tester and Accessory Kit M2O41519KIT - The Home Depot

This Digital Circuit Breaker Finder and Accessory Kit includes the Klein Tools model # ET310 Digital Circuit Breaker Finder with GFCI Outlet Tester and the model # 69411 Circuit Breaker Finder Accessory

www.homedepot.com

 

[drsipe]

It sounds like one leg of your breaker failed. 220V is actually two 110V feeds at different phases in the voltage curve. So one line is 110V positive, while one line is 110V negative. When you use the multi meter, you are reading the difference between the testing points, so in this case you should read 220V.

If you are comfortable with electricity, remove the cover to your breaker panel, and check voltage between the the contacts on the double breaker. If the breaker is bad, you will read 110V, if the breaker is working properly, you will read 220V.

I have seen a bad breaker many times, and you are describing exactly what I see when the breaker fails.