IntelliPh Board Burned

I connected an ammeter to inline with the pump. Running acid freely into a bucket pulled max 0.8ohm. Adding on the old and new check valves saw the same draw. New check valve running into the plumbing, same again. The motor draw oscillates as it turns from 0.5 to 0.8ohm. I doesn't sound like it used to, so I suspect something isn't quite right with that motor. I'm going to keep an eye on it.
ok, you checked the motor windings with an ohmmeter. That was not clear.

Here you say you used an ammeter and said the motor draw was in ohms. That is amps if measured by an ammeter.

It is confusing what you are measuring with what device and what normal readings should be.
 
ok, you checked the motor windings with an ohmmeter. That was not clear.

Here you say you used an ammeter and said the motor draw was in ohms. That is amps if measured by an ammeter.

It is confusing what you are measuring with what device and what normal readings should be.
Ah. Sorry about that. Corrected that in the post now.
 
My theory is that the connector is mostly fine and adequate as is. But the metal pins are of inferior quality and when they start to corrode, due to outdoor elements or slightly misfitting, they add a bit of resistance. This results in heat, which encourages the corrosion, and then it cascades until there is enough heat to melt the connector and fry the pins until they disconnect. Something like that.
Sorry, this thread was just old enough that I now realize I'm repeating myself. O'course, five minutes old would be all it would take for me to forget what I already said!! ;)
 
It's all good @Dirk. My enclosure is in direct sunlight (like all my equipment) all afternoon. So it gets hot on its own without the amp draw. I'm sure that doesn't help. I'll monitor my connector and likely add the splice you describe. I see no reason to flow the iChlor current through the connector at all, its red and black can fully bypass the iPH board.
 
I see no reason to flow the iChor current through the connector at all, its red and black can fully bypass the iPH board.
No, that's what I was getting at. The board itself draws current from the red and black wires, for its own circuitry. That's why the illustrations show the original wires in place, or alternately the jumpers from the bypass splices to the pins of the connector. You can rely on the original wires if the pins in the connector are sound. If they are melted or corroded, failing, or are likely to fail, then you add the jumpers.

The black is the ground, relative to the entire system, and the red supplies the DC+ used by the IpH board's various chips and whatnot. The white and green are the COMM. And while the IntellipH isn't controlled by the COMM, it does listen in on it and control the IC via the COMM. It also severs the IC's connection to the COMM during acid injection, while temporarily issuing a zero-output command to the IC, via the COMM. I don't know all the nitty gritty. I think the IpH severs the COMM so that an automation controller upstream of the IpH and IC doesn't "misunderstand" the zero-output command as some sort of IC failure. Something like that.

Apologies again if you've already heard all that.
 
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