IntelliChem - worth it?

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R

ryan-california

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Apr 11, 2017
261
modesto ca
So, I've done the research on the forum and see the issues with ORP sensors, sounds like if I bump CYA I'll have serious issues. I tend to run my CYA around 30-40, and burn through quite a bit of bleach :) I'd like to get an automation system. I've considered a SWG and was thinking about getting one, until I had a great offer on a week old IntelliChem with dual pumps/tanks (acid and bleach) for about $1,200.

It's a brand new unit, I already have a Pentair ET4 wth the Screenlogic setup, so I'd like to stay in the Pentair world.

Given any of the changes that have happened over the last year or two with these things, are opinions any better on ORP sensors? If I'm not trying to run an SWG with this thing and keep CYA approx 30/40 are the solid worth it?

I don't totally love the idea of having to refill the chlorine tank over and over, but at the same time, I'd prefer to do that vs. pouring in bleach every day :) I expect that with the ORP sensor the chlorine would be more stabile around 3ppm vs. bumping to 7ppm and allowing it to drop to 3.5ish every day.

Thanks again for any insight!
 
Nope, still not worth it....

OK, you might be able to get it working in your pool but ORP is ORP, nothing has changed in that world in years. CYA reduces the hypochlorous acid levels low enough that it's right on the edge of what an ORP sensor can reasonable work off of. If you look at the IChem manual, I bet it will say very clearly that you need to use a MINIMAL amount of CYA (30ppm recommended, not more than 50ppm). SWG or bleach is inconsequential, the ORP is measuring the water's oxidation potential (a voltage measurement) and the ORP voltage can vary with temperature, time of day (UV), and other chemicals in the water.

If it is possible to NOT use the ORP as a control point and to simply use it as a read-out for the oxidizing power of the water, then you can try to correlate that with actual FC readings from your testkit. However, if you use the ORP probe to control the dosing pump, you could find yourself with a fluctuating FC levels any time the ORP probe decided to lose its mind.

The probes require monthly cleaning and calibration. They will only last 18-24 months before needing replacement and are typically around $200 to replace. The pH probe will also require cleaning and calibration but they are much sturdier and will last longer (as long as they are not abused).

Let us know how it goes....

PS - If the IChem were not an issue I would tell you that you really are running too low a CYA level for where you live. If you raised your CYA level, you'd burn through much less bleach and save money.
 
60 in May, June, and July.

50 in shoulder season. 40 during winter.

Do not have to be exact, but in those ranges.
 
mknauss said:
60 in May, June, and July.

50 in shoulder season. 40 during winter.

Do not have to be exact, but in those ranges.
Click to expand...

+1

You could just raise it to 60ppm when it gets blazin' hot out and then just let it drift down on its own naturally. Probably would only need to bump it up by 10-20ppm once per year.

However, if ORP is in your future, don't go past 30ppm or else the probe will be too finicky.
 
mknauss said:
60 in May, June, and July.

50 in shoulder season. 40 during winter.

Do not have to be exact, but in those ranges.
Click to expand...

Awesome! Thanks, I'll work towards that. My chlorine usage has been fairly high, so getting a slight bump in CYA right now would likely help. I'll work it. I'm legitimately FULL sun all day, there is zero shade on the pool so I get a good amount of UV burn off regardless.

Off to get test the water :)

- - - Updated - - -

JoyfulNoise said:
However, if ORP is in your future, don't go past 30ppm or else the probe will be too finicky.
Click to expand...

That was my concern with the ORP sensor in that Intellichem. Now I've gotta do some thinking :) I am still leaning towards an IC60 and manual acid dosing. There is still a contingent of folks in the area that are fairly opposed to SWG's, I'm not sure what causes it....

- - - Updated - - -

The good news is I will have a use for the tricolor tabs that are sitting in my garage right now :) Bought a small container for vacation - now I can get a 3 for 1, chlorine, pH buffer and CYA build. :)
 
There is still a contingent of folks in the area that are fairly opposed to SWG's, I'm not sure what causes it....
Click to expand...

I would suspect most do not manage their pool chemistry, allow pH to rise, get scale on their waterline and on their SWCG cell , and blame the saltwater.

I could not have a pool without a SWCG. Only way we can leave for extended periods and return to a beautiful, clean, sanitary, pool.
 
mknauss said:
I would suspect most do not manage their pool chemistry, allow pH to rise, get scale on their waterline and on their SWCG cell , and blame the saltwater.
Click to expand...

Yes, I suspect you are correct. The scale concern is what people talk about often. "Why would I add something that is a scaling agent to the pool!!" They all seem to say.

pH is a very simple thing to test for :)

With the "bubbling" effect of a SWG do you find you see more pH rise than before or is it inconsequential?
 
Since our water is Colorado River water, which has a pH of 8, TA of 130, and CH of 250, we have rising pH regardless. It might make a difference, but I actually force some aeration to be able to add acid so I can drop my TA to keep my CSI in range. With high evaporation rates my TA goes up quickly.

Good luck.
 
mknauss said:
Since our water is Colorado River water, which has a pH of 8, TA of 130, and CH of 250, we have rising pH regardless. It might make a difference, but I actually force some aeration to be able to add acid so I can drop my TA to keep my CSI in range. With high evaporation rates my TA goes up quickly.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Thankfully my fill water is low CH (75) but it is pH 8 and TA 120. I expect I'll have similar issues. Thanks again :)
 

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