Installed AQR3, BUT..

[DawHart]

First, I am kinda familiar with SWG, I have downsize to a 15,000 gallon pool from a 65K with dual SWG setups. I have replaced the filter, pool pump and added the AQR3, along with some re-plumbing. Followed the instructions for the AQR3 and double checked to make sure it was set to a T3 cell. Ran the unit for 24 hours the first run, set the % desired to 80%. Tested the water, no chlorine registered. So I then set to Super Chlorinate, again no chlorine registering. Even took sample to PaP for testing. Added 2 bags of Salinity, set desired level to 100%, 2 days later, tested no chlorine. Going on 2 weeks now with the same results. Diagnostic Display: 86, 26.8, 3.16, 100, -3600, AL-0, 1.59, t-3. Last test on 6/7/19 Chlorine 0.00, pH 7.4, TA 110, CH 500, Stabilizer 100, Salt 3400. Hayward support is lagging in that department.

Apologies for the lengthy first post, but I am at a lost and very frustrated! Never had this much of a problem with my BIG pool! I guess it is true, it is always the "little" things that get you. Certainly appreciate any and all suggestions or input.

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
Do you have your own test kit? Typically your symptoms tells us you have algae that is consuming your FC as fast as the SWCG can make it. So it would be best to do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight. But you need your own FAS-DPD test kit for FC testing to do it.
The test you show states Stabilizer of 100. That is the limit of most pool store tests that are not very accurate. Again, you need your own test kit to measure you CYA level.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.

 

[JamesW]

T3 puts out .56lbs/24 hrs
t5 - .74/24 hrs
t9 - .98/24 hrs
t15 - 1.45/24hrs

For a 15,000 gallon pool, the T-3 will give you about 4.5 ppm per day when run at 100% for 24 hours. That's just barely enough to keep up.

The easiest way to check the output of the cell is to divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity. That gives you the performance of the cell.

If your actual salinity is 3,400 and the instant salinity is 3,600, that indicates that you're getting about 106% performance from the cell.

You need to SLAM.

Are you using a good FASDPD test kit?

 

[DawHart]

Welcome to the forum!
Do you have your own test kit? Typically your symptoms tells us you have algae that is consuming your FC as fast as the SWCG can make it. So it would be best to do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight. But you need your own FAS-DPD test kit for FC testing to do it.
The test you show states Stabilizer of 100. That is the limit of most pool store tests that are not very accurate. Again, you need your own test kit to measure you CYA level.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.

Thank you for that info. Currently I only have the basic test kit. After some reading, I realize I need a better setup. Also, will follow up on the suggested reading(s).

 

[DawHart]

T3 puts out .56lbs/24 hrs
t5 - .74/24 hrs
t9 - .98/24 hrs
t15 - 1.45/24hrs

For a 15,000 gallon pool, the T-3 will give you about 4.5 ppm per day when run at 100% for 24 hours. That's just barely enough to keep up.

The easiest way to check the output of the cell is to divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity. That gives you the performance of the cell.

If your actual salinity is 3,400 and the instant salinity is 3,600, that indicates that you're getting about 106% performance from the cell.

You need to SLAM.

Are you using a good FASDPD test kit?

I do not have the FASDPD, but I will be getting one. My pool volume is really closer to 12,000 gallons. I use the larger volume because at the pool supply shop, the testers are young, & really not observant of what they are doing. The “fudged” factor helps to keep things inline. However, I will be doing my own testing as I move forward.
Should I have gone with a larger T cell? When ordering, the T3 was recommended, from what I was reading. After SLAMing, OCLT, plus more sweeping & washing the filter do you think the T3 will mange the levels needed? I guess I could try to exchange it with Amazon.
Appreciate your input!

 

[JamesW]

I would consider the T-3 to be undersized for most pools.

In my opinion, the T-15 is usually the best choice.

You can probably make the T-3 work, but you're going to have to run the pump almost continuously.

If you have a variable speed pump or a two speed pump, that's not too bad, but if you have a single speed pump, it's going to cost you a lot of money to run the pump 24 hours a day.

 

[DawHart]

Thought I’d post an update. I was able to replace the T-3 turbo cell with the T-15. Control panel set properly to reflect it is a T-15. Also, received my FAS-DPD test kit (expiration 4/19 ?‍). Just received today my magnet spinner (not Taylor), ran a test, now to learn how to properly read the results. Still have some Mustard algae on the walls. But I do have chlorine being produced! Appreciate the suggestions given.