Inconsistent pool filler level

[Sherlock]

I've scoured the web for this problem but no luck so I'm hoping to get some experts here.

I'm in Arizona and I have an inground 35,000 gallon pool and an in ground water level valve. When I bought house this was the type of valve:

That started to misbehave, and I mentioned it to my pool guy and he replaced it (without asking me, but I know he was simply trying to help) with one of these:

Now the problem is consistency. It seems to work, the pool fills to around the expected level then over the next day or two the level drops like 1/4 or even 1/2 inch before it triggers and starts to fill again. Then it fills OK but to a slightly different level to before and I just can't get consistency or precision.

I'm on a shared well and its important that the pool fill up small amounts, incrementally, during the day rather than 100 200 or 300 gallons ever few days. So I just want the Dang thing to maintain a steady level day after day - it used to behave fine with the original filler valve by the way, I seem to recall it always was at the same level, visually it never seemed to vary at all.

Look:



See the water level? that's approx 1/2 beneath the white lime scale line, you can see that dark 1/2 thick stripe. But yesterday morning it was exactly level with the base of that white strip and that's historically where the level has always been. It won't drop much lower, it will top up eventually, just not consistently, so I know its coming on infrequently and likely pulling several days worth of water on one hit every few days.

Is this normal? should a pool need to drop 1/2 and inch in water before the valve kicks in?? is this a known behavior perhaps with the updated filler valve type?

Thanks

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
My pool has the basic float valve. Works great. Your system is designed for the toilet bowl type valve. So not sure you have any options. Let's ask @proavia if they have any ideas.
I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

 

[proavia]

Welcome to TFP!

I'm guessing you have something similar to the A&A Quik Leveler for your autofill.
Originally, it came with a "Korky" fill valve - but that fill valve can be replaced with one of the Fluidmaster fill valves. I replaced mine some years back with the Fluidmaster 400 (tied off the upper skinny tube).

Due to the float on each valve, the water will fill up until the float closes the valve. Then a certain amount of water needs to be removed (via evaporation in a pool) so the float drops and opens the valve to refill the vessel. There will be a difference in levels between full and when the float drops low enough to open the valve again to refill - so water level in the pool will vary some. There needs to be some gap between on and off or the valve would continuously open and close.

One item to check.... with water shut off to autofill, remove (unscrew) the fill valve and ensure the restrictor seal is in place. Here'sa picof what the original looks like.

A&A Manufacturing Quik Water Leveler Restrictor Seal # 518539

The Quik Water Leveler Restrictor Seal is a replacement part for your autofills and is manufactured by A&A for the maintenance of your pool equipment # 518539.

www.aapoolproducts.com

Basically, it's a washer that fits in the threaded socket under the fill valve. It has a small hole in it to restrict the water flow. No way I would pay $8 for one - but could easily make one......
Do NOT overtighten the fill valve as it could crack the socket moulded into the autofill canister. Barely hand tight is usually tight enough.

 

[Sherlock]

Thanks fellas, much appreciated. I looked at the device closely and it is made by "Korky". I understand too that we need some drop in level in order for the valve to open and allow a flow, but the 1/2" drop seems excessive to me, like I never recall seeing that with the older design.

I'll do some research on the device that's in there and report back...

 

[duraleigh]

I would replace the new valve back to the old style you had (but new)

In commodes, at least, they seem to be pretty darn accurate.

 

[Sherlock]

OK I just watched this and it was instructive. I can try removing the device and checking for the gasket as well as giving the system a flush as he did. I wasn't sure before how to adjust the level but I think I can see now...will report back later.

 

[Sherlock]

I would replace the new valve back to the old style you had (but new)

In commodes, at least, they seem to be pretty darn accurate.

Yes, I might just do that, I'd like ask people here do they see this kind of 1/2" or more range in water levels?

 

[Ahultin]

you could also try replacing with the 528pro which is constructed with material better suited for "harsh environments"

Amazon.com

 

[Ahultin]

Yes, I might just do that, I'd like ask people here do they see this kind of 1/2" or more range in water levels?

looking at the notes on korky, it looks like this is typically indicative of calcium buildup on the float valve, based on your tile line i am betting you have Arizona typical high calcium hardness.

 

[Sherlock]

Another confusion for me is the internal overflow pipe, look at this one that has the overflow (all pictures are from vids I found on youtube)



Mine has no such pipe but it does have what looks like a place one could be attached, at the bottom like in this picture:



See on that right hand side? mine looks like that, a place one could attach a pipe but no pipe - so what is that about?

 

[Sherlock]

looking at the notes on korky, it looks like this is typically indicative of calcium buildup on the float valve, based on your tile line i am betting you have Arizona typical high calcium hardness.

Yes, very mineralized water here, from a well aquifer like 900 ft down, pure as heck but yes a lot of calcium.

 

[mknauss]

You live in Arizona. Your pool does not need an overflow. It is plugged in your fill box.