Inaccurate salt readings

Neo337

0
May 10, 2015
34
Memphis, TN
So I am opening my pool for the season and am wondering if I need to replace my t-cell, the control panel, or both? All last season, the readings for the salt levels were always way off and too low. I would test it with a kit and they would be 3400ppm, but the system would say too low (1400ppm) and wouldn't produce chlorine. So I would manually reset it and set the number high, but after a day or so it would drift back down and I would have to reset it again. The weird thing is, when I reset the number to an acceptable level, it would work great and produce chlorine just fine until the number fell again after running for a day or so.
How can I know if it is the cell, the control panel, or something else? I did remove the t-cell and clean it thoroughly, but still had the problem. Thanks in advance for the help!
 
For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity reading.

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.


Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.
 
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