In Over My Head Running PVC, Maybe somebody can help

[ksquared]

I have never liked how these guys installed the plumbing for the pool. You can see, it is essentially impossible to change the four valves, and they left them so low to the ground too. The pipes are also coming up through the concrete, which I thought was frowned upon. There were a lot of problems with this pool builder beyond this.
However, it worked OK for 12 years or so, and for the past few years I've managed to change a couple of valves, and I also replaced the DE filter with the Pentair C100-3, a bit of difficulty to get installed, but I did it.
Now, the pump has died. I purchased the new pump. Obviously, Pentair would keep the dimensions across their pool pumps, but no, so now it is a major problem.
There really is no room to run PVC straight out and down and get low enough for the pump where the old pump was. There is a huge amount of room unused on the slab, and I'd be fine putting the pump there, even parallel to the house would be OK, or between the filter and the house where the pump would be shaded by the filter, but then it will be a spaghetti run of pipe. Of course, as long as it doesn't leak I guess I'll be OK. That would require the 90° elbow, right off the SPA valve, although it does have a threaded coupling so maybe not impossible for me to do.
I don't know if anybody can give any suggestions about the best path forward.
I don't know if it matters, but I am in Bartow, in Central Florida.

 

[needsajet]

I'd be inclined to keep the pump in the same position. It should be possible to raise or lower the pump position to get the suction inlet of the pump to line up. If adjustment is needed it might be easier on the pressure side, heading over to the filter.

Check out some youtube videos on re-using PVC fittings and valves. A heat gun can be used to remove pipe from fittings. Usually it's done to save things like valves, given that PVC fittings and pipe are relatively cheap. In a nutshell, you cut the pipe using the edge of the valve socket as a guide, remove the guts of the valve, then heat the ring of pipe in the socket. Then slide a screwdriver under the softened PVC to create a gap, then needle-nose pliers to grab it, rotate the pliers to roll up the softened PVC and pull it out. Then while everything still hot, jam a fresh piece of pipe in to make sure you leave a nicely rounded socket.

There's another method using a glue fire that I wouldn't recommend unless practiced on surplus fittings first, and on a windy day due to the fumes. Just mentioning it because you may find it on youtube - not that I recommend it.

 

[ksquared]

It should be possible to raise or lower the pump position to get the suction inlet of the pump to line up.

OK, this was my initial thinking, I had put the wood there to try to see. But I'm not sure what I can use to raise it. Wood seems to be a poor choice, and whatever is used, it seems it will have to be so the pump can be attached to it and stable.

 

[needsajet]

Wood is fine, easy to work with, etc. I use whatever is handy and if it's not already treated, I paint it with wood preserver.

 

[ksquared]

OK, thanks. I'll see what I can do.

 

[PoolStored]

Pressure treated wood, Trex type decking material...

 

[needsajet]

Almost forgot... you had a concern about pipes encased in concrete. That's a valid concern. I'll just add that the risk is high initially due to ground settling. The slab could move or twist against the pipe, and even the pipe can move. That said, I'd expect that if any damage is going to occur, it will be pretty early after install, i.e. within the first two or three years. You mentioned 12 years, hence why I initially ignored that risk.

If you re-do it, you can use a larger size of PVC pipe to create a collar and slip joint, or box it out, or not put concrete around the pipes, and use some decorative pebbles or something else around the pipes.

Miscellaneous... cleaning up around the pad is good for reducing insect activities around electrical... The assembly carrying the SWCG needs a simple support post at the outer end to square it up... if leaving this all in full sun, consider painting the PVC to reduce sun degradation, or put a roof over it. If noise is an issue, consider enclosing it but leave some ventilation. That red-handled valve will eventually seize in full sun.

 

[ksquared]

Miscellaneous... cleaning up around the pad is good for reducing insect activities around electrical... The assembly carrying the SWCG needs a simple support post at the outer end to square it up... if leaving this all in full sun, consider painting the PVC to reduce sun degradation, or put a roof over it. If noise is an issue, consider enclosing it but leave some ventilation. That red-handled valve will eventually seize in full sun.

Thanks for the additional tips! And you know, I'd always thought that seems a bit questionable there with the SWCG just hanging there. Just another detail that could have been that bit better. And somewhat that's why I'm wanting to fix it myself now.

 

[Lake Placid]

OK, this was my initial thinking, I had put the wood there to try to see. But I'm not sure what I can use to raise it. Wood seems to be a poor choice, and whatever is used, it seems it will have to be so the pump can be attached to it and stable.

You can use a 12x12 paver if that gives you the height you need. I’d use that over wood. There are also varying thicknesses of precast cinder block type materials that you could employ found in the concrete section at big box stores. If the height works well and everything sits in a stable way, you don’t need to worry so much about attaching the pump via mechanical means to the pad. I’ve seen shoddy work where a pump has been sitting on a used ladder bumper and scraps of cutoff pvc pipe. Sadly it held…….

A couple of pictures of the pad from different angles would be helpful for additional suggestions.

 

[JamesW]

How much do you want to raise the pump?

Frame up a pad and pour some concrete to the exact height on top of the existing concrete.

Use high strength fast setting concrete maybe with some fiber reinforcement.

You can dry mix in some anchoring cement before adding water to make it set faster, but it might set too fast, so be careful.

 

[JamesW]

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[ksquared]

Thanks JamesW. I might look into it, but maybe as an addition to the pad that is already there. I could go a bit further out from the house then.
Another detail I've discovered, when the pump was installed, it was right next to the valve there on the intake side, definitely not the 5X the intake size. So I could at that point just go straight out further from the SPA DRAIN valve.