Installing a new Jandy Ck valve

[tstex]

Hello & Merry Christmas to all,

Need to install a new Jandy 2" Ck valve. It makes sense to remove the internal parts when gluing it together in order to not glue shut the actual internal door. Is there any special technique to use in order not to get the glue into the valve door/port area which would prevent a tight seal when reinstalling the internal valve assembly?

Finally, the tension on the valve door is really tight in my opinion. Should it be that stiff and what does that degree of stiffness do to headloss when I run my VSP on lower settings?

Note, I always place both primer & glue on both the receptacle and piece of PVC going into the receptacle, then turn the PVC pipe 90 degrees and hold for 10 Secs for a good seal...

Thank you,
Tstex

 

[Jimrahbe]

ts,

Check valves will increase the speed you need to run your pump.. Makes sense, as the more obstacles you add to the plumbing path, the harder it is to push the water through..

I too would remove the "guts" when installing...

I say again... if you remove the tab feeder, you would not need any check valve...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[JamesW]

The Jandy valve spring is not super strong. Are you sure that it's a Jandy?

When gluing, you can put full glue on the pipe part but less on the socket part.

If you do the glue in the socket thin and about 1/2 to 3/4 depth, you should be able to get a good glue joint without glue oozing over the lip into the valve.

The glue should end up as a thin, even ridge at the end of the pipe.

I would suggest that you get a few 1.5" couplings and some pipe to practice gluing so that you get it right the first time.

 

[tstex]

Thank you guys. Here's a pic of the valve.

I'm pretty good at gluing PVC pipe, and I now noticed that the valve receptacles are taped inward in 4 places, so it stops the pipe from being pushed into the door assemble area. I guess I'll be buying a 10ft piece of 2" sch 40 and 4-5 couplings for future use as well.

Lastly, the puck dispenser I'm going to leave bc it's the only way I add CYA to pool, and a get a few days rest from dumping bleach into the pool.

I'll take a few b4 & afters...it's a good thing I have the unions on the heater to work w thus giving me an ave to set the valve - thanks again, tstex

 

[JamesW]

Where possible, try to glue with the valve pointing down so that any excess glue runs down into the pipe instead of into the valve.

When priming, shake off the dauber so that you don't have dripping primer and hold the valve up so that drips go away from the valve.

For head loss information, Google:

NeverLube Valve Technical Specifcations & Head Loss Charts.

http://www.backyardpoolsuperstore.com/assets/images/PDFs/SpecSheets/JandyNeverLubeValveSpecSheet.pdf

 

[tstex]

Great suggestion James, and I can do that by taking off section at Union, which happens to be the v- door side ��

 

[tstex]

Just got back from Home Depot and the couplings they have for 2" sch 40 only has 3/4" sleeves...the whole coupling is only 1.5" long - that seems really short. Should I try a plumbing outfit?

 

[JamesW]

Those are DWV fittings. Home Depot has the correct fittings in a nearby area.

Socket depth on schedule 40 is about 1.25".

 

[tstex]

Those are DWV fittings. Home Depot has the correct fittings in a nearby area.

Socket depth on schedule 40 is about 1.25".

I knew they were way too short but the guy there insisted - went back and found the right ones...sorry for the add'l post that shouldn't have happened - ��

 

[PoolGate]

If you are putting in a new valve, I would go with the below which is also a flow meter.

Amazon.com : FlowVis 2 x 2.5in. Complete Pool Flow Meter and Check Valve : Garden Outdoor