IC40 with EasyTouch Question

[goldmaes]

2 years ago I decided to add an IC40 SWG to my pool system. The pool builder originally built the pool with an EasyTouch 4 automation system but it did not have the “guts” for an intellichlor system (ie no transformer or breaker). I asked the Pentair Certified installer if it was possible for me to have the IC40 installed without the powercenter as I didn’t want another box installed on the side of my house if it wasn’t mandatory. He stated that he has done it many times and would just need to add the transformer and 12A breaker to the EasyTouch system. Everything worked great and it has not been a problem.

About a week ago no lights would come on the IC40. I went thorough the steps to diagnose the problem including watching many YouTube videos and realized that he put the transformer in, appropriately wired it to the same relay as the pump so it will only come on when the pump is running. The problem is that it appears that he bypassed the power control board and installed Pentair part 521034z from the stand alone power center. This is the part that the IC plugs into that has a separate 10A mini fuse. I cannot imagine why this would be necessary as the intellichor has its own 12A breaker going to the PCB. As such, this part is “floating“ in the EasyTouch. Has anyone seen this type of installation?

As I stated it has worked up until now. The board he installed is still working as when I put in a new fuse as well as unplugging the IC40 the power light will come on when the pump is on. The fuse just blows when the IC40 is plugged in so it was obvious the cell was the issue and as a result Pentair is sending a replacement unit. Should I have a different Pentair certified tech look at the installation and fix it or does this setup sound like it would be ok to stick with? I am more than happy to post pics if my description was inadequate. Thanks.

 

[Jimrahbe]

G,

Are you sure??

Your Vs pump should get constant AC power. Your Cell Transformer should get its power from your Pump/Filter relay. It is ok to get the power from the same breaker as the pump, as long as the transformer is getting its power from the load side of the Pump/Filter relay.

The Tech installed the surge card from a Power Center that is why it has a fuse.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[goldmaes]

I may have misstated it. You are correct the pump does get constant AC Power and the transformer gets it from the load side of the relay. The question was more around the surge card from the power center just “floating inside the system. It is not afixed to the easytouch box anywhere and is only connected via wires. I am assuming (possibly wrongly) that the low voltage breaker for the intellichlor is bypassed as a result. While the setup works, it is certainly not standard and I was more curious if anyone thinks that a setup like this could have caused the IC40 to die (short) early?

 

[Flying Tivo]

The IC card or Surge board should be attached to the ET box with a screw that fixes the AC/DC converter to help with cooling the rectifier.

 

[Jimrahbe]

G,

Of course, the right way to do it is to mount the card to the back wall of the EasyTouch..

That said, I don't see how the card could cause the cell to fail.

The main problem that I see is that the Surge card that comes with the Power Center is designed to be mounted to the chassis so that it becomes a heat sink.

I would have expected the card to fail and not the cell.

I'd want to test the output of the card and confirm that it is producing about 30 to 40 Volts DC.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[goldmaes]

Where would you suggest I put the probes to test the output? I am a newbie at that part of the testing.

 

[goldmaes]

Is where the red and black come in here Where it enters the board? Also it is an AC test correct?

 

[Jimrahbe]

G,

To test the DC output, you would test between the GND (black wire) and VDC (Red wire).

If you have good DC voltage, then there would be no reason to test the AC input. But if you want to test it, you'd test between T1 and T2 terminals. You should get about 26 Volts AC.

The card that you show will work, but it is not the card that is normally inside the EasyTouch.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[goldmaes]

The first picture shows where the surge board sits in the EasyTouch. In the second picture there are spots at the top where additional relays would go if it was an ET8 instead of the ET4. Do you think it would be best to screw the Surge board in there? Additionally when I tested the GND and VDC I consistently was at 26.8 Volts. It is a bit shy of the 30V you mentioned. Do you think that is the problem and not the salt cell? I found the following from the Pentair IC40 specs. I would think this voltage would be ok.

Intellichlor Salt Chlorinator Model IC40
Input: 90-130 VAC, 50/60 Hz, 220 Watts (2 AMP) or 220-240 VAC, 50/60 Hz, 220 Watts (1 AMP).
Output: 22-39 VDC @ 7.3 AMPS maximum from the Power Center.

 

[Jimrahbe]

G,

I agree that undervoltage should not pop the breaker.

I do not know what the minimum voltage is.. I do know that on my system, with the cell connected, I get about 40 Volts DC when the cell is not making chlorine, and about 35 Volts DC when the cell is making chlorine.

I'd test it again, once you have a working cell connected, as that might make a difference in the reading.

Off the top of my head, I think that 26 VDC would be too low, but I have no idea if that is true or not.

Other than looking better, connecting the card to the chassis will not make it work any better.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[goldmaes]

G,

I agree that undervoltage should not pop the breaker.

I do not know what the minimum voltage is.. I do know that on my system, with the cell connected, I get about 40 Volts DC when the cell is not making chlorine, and about 35 Volts DC when the cell is making chlorine.

I'd test it again, once you have a working cell connected, as that might make a difference in the reading.

Off the top of my head, I think that 26 VDC would be too low, but I have no idea if that is true or not.

Other than looking better, connecting the card to the chassis will not make it work any better.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks so much. Just to be clear it isn’t popping the breaker, it is blowing the minifuse on the surg board. I agree the new cell should tell the story. I would hate to wait all that time for it only to find out it was the transformer or the surg board. I guess we will just have to wait and see.