IC40 replaced flow control switch still says low salt

[JameyG]

Light has been red showing low salt for a few days. Titration test was 3600, add a bag anyways to get it to 3800. Replaced flow control switch and it went green on startup, thought I actually fixed something. Next two days I go out there and it’s red again. Cell is only 4 years old and shows 60% of life used (holding more down for 3 seconds). Am I just out of luck and need to drop $1k on a new SWG?

 

[JameyG]

Oh and I cleaned it already as well with a 50% acid mixrure

 

[tucsontico]

A few questions:
1) Since you cleaned the cell, do the plates look clean or corroded around the edges?
2) Do you have any automation to give you a readout of the salt level the IC40 "thinks" is in the water?
3) What is you water temperature?
4) Which titration test kit did you use and are the reagents new?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Jamey,

When the cell initially starts up, do you see the salt light flashing like at a railroad crossing? This normally last for a couple of minutes.

Most cells last 5 to 7 years, some die early, some last a lot longer.

I'd reboot everything and see what happens. No offence, but I'd want to double check that the red light is actually the salt light and not the flow light.

Normally when the cell goes bad, the cell light starts to flash, even when the cell is clean. Or.. the cell will not light up at all, or will pop the breakers. I'm sure it can happen, but a salt readings failure is not a normal issue with the IC40..

I doubt it, but I suppose the new flow switch could be bad. How many wires did the old switch have and how many wires did the new switch have?

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

The advice above is solid but I’d like to make one point - you should never acid clean a cell with a mineral acid like MA and especially at that kind of concentrations. That much acid can easily damage the transition metal catalyst on the cell plates. I know all the manufacturers say that it’s ok to use a 4:1 or 5:1 dilution but even that is far too concentrated. They simply don’t understand the chemistry and they probably don’t care much because it just means another replacement cell sold. The easiest and safest way to clean the cell is to simply spray it out with a strong jet of water from a garden hose. If there’s any visible crust at the edges you can use a long wooden skewer (the kind used to make kabobs with) and scrap it off. If you really need to chemically clean it then use white vinegar (either regular or cleaning strength). Acids only damage the cell.

4 years is a bit on the low side, I got 8 years out of my last cell. I wouldn’t put too much stock in the usage output (60%) as that LED can indicate anything from 60 to 80% (they really need to do a better job on cell diagnostics).

Question - how often and what % output does the cell normally run at?

 

[JameyG]

A few questions:
1) Since you cleaned the cell, do the plates look clean or corroded around the edges?
2) Do you have any automation to give you a readout of the salt level the IC40 "thinks" is in the water?
3) What is you water temperature?
4) Which titration test kit did you use and are the reagents new?

1. No scale, looks clean
2. Unfortunately no
3. 82 degrees
4. Taylor k-1776. Not super new but not more than 2 years old.

 

[JameyG]

Jamey,

When the cell initially starts up, do you see the salt light flashing like at a railroad crossing? This normally last for a couple of minutes.

Most cells last 5 to 7 years, some die early, some last a lot longer.

I'd reboot everything and see what happens. No offence, but I'd want to double check that the red light is actually the salt light and not the flow light.

Normally when the cell goes bad, the cell light starts to flash, even when the cell is clean. Or.. the cell will not light up at all, or will pop the breakers. I'm sure it can happen, but a salt readings failure is not a normal issue with the IC40..

I doubt it, but I suppose the new flow switch could be bad. How many wires did the old switch have and how many wires did the new switch have?

Thanks,

Jim R.

Yep when it starts I get the red/green back and forth for about 2 minutes before it stays solid. Right after I replaced the flow control switch, it stayed solid green so I was excited that it worked. The next day and every day after, back to solid red. It’s definitely the low salt light and not the flow light. Switch has 4 wires. Black, white, red, green. New switch also has 4, but blue instead of black and a clearish opaque color instead of white. Directions said blue to black and clear to white. And like I said, first turn on was green so I felt confident it was correct.

 

[JameyG]

The advice above is solid but I’d like to make one point - you should never acid clean a cell with a mineral acid like MA and especially at that kind of concentrations. That much acid can easily damage the transition metal catalyst on the cell plates. I know all the manufacturers say that it’s ok to use a 4:1 or 5:1 dilution but even that is far too concentrated. They simply don’t understand the chemistry and they probably don’t care much because it just means another replacement cell sold. The easiest and safest way to clean the cell is to simply spray it out with a strong jet of water from a garden hose. If there’s any visible crust at the edges you can use a long wooden skewer (the kind used to make kabobs with) and scrap it off. If you really need to chemically clean it then use white vinegar (either regular or cleaning strength). Acids only damage the cell.

4 years is a bit on the low side, I got 8 years out of my last cell. I wouldn’t put too much stock in the usage output (60%) as that LED can indicate anything from 60 to 80% (they really need to do a better job on cell diagnostics).

Question - how often and what % output does the cell normally run at?

Thanks, yeah I usually just clean it out with a hard jet from my hose but I was out of ideas at this point. It runs daily, usually at 40% output. Sometimes 20% in the winter months and 60% in the summer.