I'm a new pool owner. The IC20 was showing low salt. Salt was added now all the LEDs are dark. The LEDs light and two blink for a short time after main power up then they all turn off. The LED in the transformer box stays on. The Easytouch panel shows OK but changes to COM failure after a short time. Any debug suggestions would be appreciated.
IC20 LEDs go on only during power up
- Thread starter wkk2
- Start date
Wk,
The IC20 should have some lights even if there is a com failure.. That tells me that either the cell itself is bad, or the DC voltage from the power supply is gone or at least very low..
If you have a volt meter you can test the output of the power supply board between the large red and black wires you should have about 35 to 40 volts DC...
Here is a pic of the power supply board .. Pentair IntelliChlor Power Center Surge Board 521034Z
This assumes you have an external power supply and not one in the back of your EasyTouch. The pic is just to give you an idea of where to measure,
Thanks,
Jim R.
The IC20 should have some lights even if there is a com failure.. That tells me that either the cell itself is bad, or the DC voltage from the power supply is gone or at least very low..
If you have a volt meter you can test the output of the power supply board between the large red and black wires you should have about 35 to 40 volts DC...
Here is a pic of the power supply board .. Pentair IntelliChlor Power Center Surge Board 521034Z
This assumes you have an external power supply and not one in the back of your EasyTouch. The pic is just to give you an idea of where to measure,
Thanks,
Jim R.
Due to rusty screws I couldn't get to the Red/Black PCB termination points so I made an external tap cable with a Male and Female connector from a dead unit. The voltage going to the IC20 is 41V and is constant before and after the LEDs go dark. There is about 20mV of ripple. It seems like something is causing the processor in the IC20 to crash or otherwise shutdown. Would a shorted cell cause this behavior or am I stuck with just replacing the unit?
Wk,
Sounds like a bad cell to me.. How old is it? How big (gallons) is your pool?
When not working, what happens when you push and hold the more button?
Good job on the jumper cable...
Sorry,
Jim R.
Sounds like a bad cell to me.. How old is it? How big (gallons) is your pool?
When not working, what happens when you push and hold the more button?
Good job on the jumper cable...
Sorry,
Jim R.
I can only guess on the cell age. The IC20 is on the ground so I can't see the serial number. The seller left a dead unit in the garage that was 2011. If it lasted 5 yrs, the new is 3 or 4 years old. The pool is about 10k Gal. I'm assuming it's easy to replace. Pump off, maybe drain something and unscrew the couplings.
wk,
Yep, turn off the pump and unscrew the couplings.. That said, when you do that the filter will most likely drain back through the opening or back to the pool, so unless you have valves to shut that off, it would be a great time to clean the filter. Take the filter apart and clean it, replace the cell, and then reinstall the filter guts.
What kind of filter do you have?
Thanks,
Jim R.
Yep, turn off the pump and unscrew the couplings.. That said, when you do that the filter will most likely drain back through the opening or back to the pool, so unless you have valves to shut that off, it would be a great time to clean the filter. Take the filter apart and clean it, replace the cell, and then reinstall the filter guts.
What kind of filter do you have?
Thanks,
Jim R.
The "More" button doesn't seem to do anything (display stays dark). The filter is some type of Clean Clear. The model tag is damaged so I'm not sure of the type. There are valves on both sides of the IC20. One diverts around the heater and the other between the Spa an Pool. I hope there is an all off position to make a change out quicker.