IC 60 issues

[rebman]

I installed an IC60 in May 2018 and I've noticed this year that I've needed to raise the % operation to 60-80% to maintain a chlorine level that used to be achieved with 6-8%. There was some scale inside, so I cleaned it with diluted hydrochloric acid, but it didn't help. The "Good" salt indicator is also flashing (high), but I've tested the water multiple times and it's coming back at 3500 ppm. 3 years seems a little on the low side for for how long it's supposed to last.

I held the "More" button down and it read 40%, so it looks like it's only been used for ~4000 hours. I pushed it again and all the % LEDs were flashing, so it looks like the temperature sensor is bad which probably explains the flashing salt level indicator.

Is this an indication that it's dying even though it's only been used for 4000 hours? Is there any troubleshooting I can do? Any suggestions or advice?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Reb,

It is not an indication of anything other than you need to replace the Flow Switch assy.. A pretty cheap and easy DIY fix.

I suggest that you find the new 3-wire flow switch, which in theory are better.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Reb,

While your flow switch can make the salt level appear too high or too low, I doubt it will fix your main problem.

I suspect that you have algae, even if you can't see it, and the IC 60 is just having a hard time keeping up.

Suggest that you do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test or OCLT... Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[rebman]

nm

 

[rebman]

Reb,

While your flow switch can make the salt level appear too high or too low, I doubt it will fix your main problem.

I suspect that you have algae, even if you can't see it, and the IC 60 is just having a hard time keeping up.

Suggest that you do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test or OCLT... Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Thanks,

Jim R.

Hi Jim,

I tried the OCLT test last night. I unplugged the generator and about a half hour later tested the water and it was 5 ppm FC (~8 pm). Then this morning I tested it at ~5 am and it was still 5 ppm. Also, I've noticed the pH isn't going up as much as it usually does when it's producing more FC, so another indication that it's not putting out as much as it used to.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Reb,

Glad you passed but surprised as SWCGs tend to just quit working rather than slowly degrade.

One thing you can try is to disconnect the thermistor inside the flow switch by cutting the green and white wires between the cell and the flow switch. I'd cut about 3 or 4 inches from the flow switch end.

Note that this is intended for the older flow switches that have 4 wires,, Red, Black Green and White inside a little brown or grey cable..

When you cut the wires, the cell uses and internal resistor rather than the thermistor that is inside the flow switch..

If your cell starts working, then you will know the flow switch is the issue.. If the cell does not start working, you will know not to waste your money buying a new flow switch.

Thanks,

Jim R.