I40 Salt Generator problems
- Thread starter WWF
- Start date
Hey WWF !!! When it flashes red/green it’s doing it’s salt check. If it doesn’t come out of it usually it’s the thermosister on the flow switch, which you replaced. If your wiring was good, it could be the brains of the operation. Kill the power and open the control box / automation panel and see if anything looks fried.
Also, what kind of connectors did you use ? I saw one a couple of weeks ago using self crimp ones and I could tell by the pic that one wasn’t seated fully. Hers was still making contact so that wasn’t the problem but it could be that simple.
Or the replacement was a dud.
Also, what kind of connectors did you use ? I saw one a couple of weeks ago using self crimp ones and I could tell by the pic that one wasn’t seated fully. Hers was still making contact so that wasn’t the problem but it could be that simple.
Or the replacement was a dud.
How do the plates look? Any scale buildup on them? Have you acid washed them recently?
Walt,
The first thing that has to work is the flow light.. If you have a red flow light, nothing else will work, including the salt test.. (Railroad crossing-like flashing lights.)
You either have good flow or you don't.. It is that simple.. If you can put your hand by a pool return line and feel a good strong flow, then the flow switch should be closed.
Let's assume the flow is good.. That means the flow switch is not working or the cell itself is bad.
You changed the flow switch assembly... did you have a red flow light before you changed the flow switch? It could be...
You put the flow switch in backwards..
You bent it when you installed it..
The connections are not good.. (Not unusual with the crimp connectors)
Or the cell is bad.
You can temporarily short the Red and Black wires coming FROM the cell together as a test. This simulates the flow switch closing. If the light turns green with the wires shorted, then the problem is the flow switch or connections.. If the light does NOT turn green with the wires shorted together, then the cell is bad..
Here is a diagram that shows the connections.. This diagram is for adding an external temp sensor, but also shows how the flow switch is connected..
We have also seen some black corrosion reported on the wires between the cell and the flow switch assy.. If yours are black they need to be cleaned or scraped to make a good electrical contact.
Thanks,
Jim R.
The first thing that has to work is the flow light.. If you have a red flow light, nothing else will work, including the salt test.. (Railroad crossing-like flashing lights.)
You either have good flow or you don't.. It is that simple.. If you can put your hand by a pool return line and feel a good strong flow, then the flow switch should be closed.
Let's assume the flow is good.. That means the flow switch is not working or the cell itself is bad.
You changed the flow switch assembly... did you have a red flow light before you changed the flow switch? It could be...
You put the flow switch in backwards..
You bent it when you installed it..
The connections are not good.. (Not unusual with the crimp connectors)
Or the cell is bad.
You can temporarily short the Red and Black wires coming FROM the cell together as a test. This simulates the flow switch closing. If the light turns green with the wires shorted, then the problem is the flow switch or connections.. If the light does NOT turn green with the wires shorted together, then the cell is bad..
Here is a diagram that shows the connections.. This diagram is for adding an external temp sensor, but also shows how the flow switch is connected..
We have also seen some black corrosion reported on the wires between the cell and the flow switch assy.. If yours are black they need to be cleaned or scraped to make a good electrical contact.
Thanks,
Jim R.
