I took the SWG plunge. As you can see by the picture, I'll be ready to start after my pool remodel. I can't seem to get hold of the PB today so I need to know what to do. I have been told not to add salt to the pool for the first 30 days. I think I need to turn on the pump and leave it running until the pool plaster is out and the chemicals are right. I think I am also supposed to be adding muriatic acid until the Ph is at 7.2 and maintain the chlorine at 2+ with liquid chlorine only. Can anyone add anything to this as well as confirm what I have been told so far?
I took the SWG plunge
- Thread starter bbbwanabe
- Start date
Congrats. Is it new plaster? Pebble? Who is the plaster manufacturer? Most have start up guidelines on their website.
No salt for 30 days
No heater for 30 days
Keep pH between 7.2 and 7.8 at all times
Don't let FC drop to 0, ever
Keep FC above minimum for your CYA, [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
No salt for 30 days
No heater for 30 days
Keep pH between 7.2 and 7.8 at all times
Don't let FC drop to 0, ever
Keep FC above minimum for your CYA, [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
bbb,
Welcome to TFP.. A great place to be!!!
You will love a SWG pool. It is normal not to add salt for about 30 days. Obviously, without the salt the SWG will not work, and in fact should be turned off. You definitely need to have your pump running for 6 to 8 hours a day, but with a VS pump, running it 24/7, at a low RPM, will not hurt anything.
The two main readings you want to keep in check are your FC (Chlorine) and your pH level. We do things a little differently than most pool builders, so I suggest you do two thing..
First... read our "Pool School" using the link at the top of this page.
Second... After reading pool school you will understand the importance of having an accurate way to test and report your pool's water/chemical balance. I have a recommend the TF-100 as the best test kit around.
What test kit are you currently using?
The whole TFP process for taking care of your pool, is giving you the ability to test your pool, and then using "Pool Math" (Link above) and adding just what you need to keep your water safe and clear. No going to the pool store ever again.
When you are ready, please post the following test results:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Got questions?? I'm sure you will, and there are a ton of people here to answer them.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Welcome to TFP.. A great place to be!!!
You will love a SWG pool. It is normal not to add salt for about 30 days. Obviously, without the salt the SWG will not work, and in fact should be turned off. You definitely need to have your pump running for 6 to 8 hours a day, but with a VS pump, running it 24/7, at a low RPM, will not hurt anything.
The two main readings you want to keep in check are your FC (Chlorine) and your pH level. We do things a little differently than most pool builders, so I suggest you do two thing..
First... read our "Pool School" using the link at the top of this page.
Second... After reading pool school you will understand the importance of having an accurate way to test and report your pool's water/chemical balance. I have a recommend the TF-100 as the best test kit around.
What test kit are you currently using?
The whole TFP process for taking care of your pool, is giving you the ability to test your pool, and then using "Pool Math" (Link above) and adding just what you need to keep your water safe and clear. No going to the pool store ever again.
When you are ready, please post the following test results:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Got questions?? I'm sure you will, and there are a ton of people here to answer them.
Thanks,
Jim R.
FC = 0 ppm
CC = .6 ppm
pH = 8+
TA = 80 ppm
CH = 60 ppm
CYA = 0 ppm
I added 1 gallon or muriatic acid diluted in a 5 gallon bucket. according to the link provided above it said don't add chlorine for first 48 hours so that's all I've done other than turn the pump on low and brush the pool one time. There wasn't a lot of dust, I'm assuming that's a result of the polishing and clean up.
CC = .6 ppm
pH = 8+
TA = 80 ppm
CH = 60 ppm
CYA = 0 ppm
I added 1 gallon or muriatic acid diluted in a 5 gallon bucket. according to the link provided above it said don't add chlorine for first 48 hours so that's all I've done other than turn the pump on low and brush the pool one time. There wasn't a lot of dust, I'm assuming that's a result of the polishing and clean up.
bbb,
As Pooldv said above, you really don't want your FC to drop to zero. One reason for this is because you have zero CYA in your pool which means it will consume you chlorine pretty quickly.
Your pool's CYA should be around 70 ppm, but before you add any, you really should talk to your PB first. You don't want to add some today and have him come out and add more tomorrow. You both need to be on the same page.
I suggest you call him and tell him you plan to add 12 lbs of CYA (Stablizer), to bring your CYA up to 40, and 2 jugs (121 oz) of 8.25% Liquid Chlorine (plain bleach), to bring your FC up to 4, and see if he has any issues with your plan.
Until your SWG is on line, you will need to add enough chlorine each day to keep your FC above 2.
Thanks,
Jim R.
As Pooldv said above, you really don't want your FC to drop to zero. One reason for this is because you have zero CYA in your pool which means it will consume you chlorine pretty quickly.
Your pool's CYA should be around 70 ppm, but before you add any, you really should talk to your PB first. You don't want to add some today and have him come out and add more tomorrow. You both need to be on the same page.
I suggest you call him and tell him you plan to add 12 lbs of CYA (Stablizer), to bring your CYA up to 40, and 2 jugs (121 oz) of 8.25% Liquid Chlorine (plain bleach), to bring your FC up to 4, and see if he has any issues with your plan.
Until your SWG is on line, you will need to add enough chlorine each day to keep your FC above 2.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Last edited:
Am I reading pool math correctly that I need 67 lbs. of calcium chloride to raise my CH from 60 to 260 in my 36000 gallon pool? And, I need to wait a month for that since it is not a liquid product and my plaster is brand new, right? Just trying to figure out how much to order. I am finding that amazon is cheaper than leslies.
bbb,
67 lbs is correct, but.. are you sure it is only 60 ppm now? It just seems awful low. I'd double check that result. May want to test your city water just to make sure you are doing the test correctly.
Please confirm with specific test kit you are using.
What have you done about the CYA and FC readings?
Thanks,
Jim R.
67 lbs is correct, but.. are you sure it is only 60 ppm now? It just seems awful low. I'd double check that result. May want to test your city water just to make sure you are doing the test correctly.
Please confirm with specific test kit you are using.
What have you done about the CYA and FC readings?
Thanks,
Jim R.
I went to leslies to get liquid conditioner and he told me to add one bottle which was 1 gallon... I see on pool math that I still need 4 more. I am ordering them from amazon as they are about 13 dollars a gallon cheaper. My CH is at 2. My CYA after adding that gallon yesterday is still at 0 as far as my test kit shows. I have 2 test kits. When I want to test just CH and pH I use a little test kit I bought at leslies. It looks like it is made by taylor as it is in a blue box but is says leslies on it. For testing anything more than that I have a Taylor 2006. I don't like using that one for chlorine because it uses a scooper of a powder which seems harder to accurately measure.
Oh yeah, the leslies guy told me the city water is 90. which is what he tested it to be, but he adds drops pretty fast where as I have to swirl after each drop. Would be a difference of 3 drops.
Oh yeah, the leslies guy told me the city water is 90. which is what he tested it to be, but he adds drops pretty fast where as I have to swirl after each drop. Would be a difference of 3 drops.
bbb,
Well I'm confused now..
Is your CH 2 or 60?
The chlorine test with the little scooper is the most accurate. Having the exact amount of power is not requirement. One or two heaping scoops full (depending on your instructions).
I would suggest you use your Taylor 2006 for everything.
Can you outline how you performed the CH test?
Thanks,
Jim R.
Well I'm confused now..
Is your CH 2 or 60? The chlorine test with the little scooper is the most accurate. Having the exact amount of power is not requirement. One or two heaping scoops full (depending on your instructions).
I would suggest you use your Taylor 2006 for everything.
Can you outline how you performed the CH test?
Thanks,
Jim R.
So sorry, FC was 2. I got CH of 60 and leslies got 90. When I did it, I rinsed and filled the large tube to the 25ml mark. I added 1 ml of R-0010 and swirled to mix. Then I added 5 drops of R-0011L and swirled to mix. The sample turned red. I added 1 drop at a time of R-0012, swirling after each drop. On the 6th drop it turned blue. I multiplied 6 x 10 to arrive at 60ppm. When the leslies guy did it, he said he counted 9, but I was watching and counted 7.
Good to know about the powdered chlorine test. I wasn't sure if they meant level scoops or heaping scoops. Also I never seem to get it to dissolve all the way, there are always some pieces floating in the bottom.
Good to know about the powdered chlorine test. I wasn't sure if they meant level scoops or heaping scoops. Also I never seem to get it to dissolve all the way, there are always some pieces floating in the bottom.
Hi bbb,
You need 20 drops of the R-0010 -don't know if what you wrote 1ml -was a typo or not.
I find that one scoop of the DPD powder is sufficient and it's normal to have some floaties that don't dissolve. If anything it means that you probably have enough of the powder!
Oh and my final bit of advice is trust the K-2006!!
You need 20 drops of the R-0010 -don't know if what you wrote 1ml -was a typo or not.
I find that one scoop of the DPD powder is sufficient and it's normal to have some floaties that don't dissolve. If anything it means that you probably have enough of the powder!
Oh and my final bit of advice is trust the K-2006!!
Thanks for all of the helpful answers. I have never been involved with a pool at the start-up and was totally surprised by the sheer volume of chemicals I was needing for start-up. I expected lots of muriatic acid and liquid chlorine from what I had heard. But the rest of it has taken me by complete surprise.
My K2006 came with an eyedropper with a 1 ml mark on it. It said to use 20 drops of the R-0010 or to simply use the eyedropper to the 1 ml mark. When I test the water this evening I'll try with 20 drops and see if anything changes.
Thanks again, the help is really so very welcome!
My K2006 came with an eyedropper with a 1 ml mark on it. It said to use 20 drops of the R-0010 or to simply use the eyedropper to the 1 ml mark. When I test the water this evening I'll try with 20 drops and see if anything changes.
Thanks again, the help is really so very welcome!