I need help troubleshooting my salt readings

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abfab

Gold Supporter
Nov 12, 2012
211
Ontario, Canada
I changed my cell last week. My drop test showed 2800 and the swg showed 3200. The other day I added some water to the pool and then we had a significant rainfall. I retested today and now I have 2600 vs 3300. The new cell was left by a previous owner (in sealed box when I moved in) so it is at least 9 years old. I went from a T-15 which I was pretty accurate before it started failing at the end of last season to this T-9. I did the off/auto calibration and it does not drop below 3300. The only other change this year was adjusting my pump schedule so it runs higher overnight and lower during the day. Also when I opened the pool this year I did not have to add any salt which surprised me. I normally I add 1-2 bags. I figure I must have added too much salt last year due to faulty cell readings.

I have replaced the swg limiter 3 times and was told that high salt can cause this to blow so I am trying to keep it at the lower end. Ideally I would like to avoid buying a new cell since I have this brand new one. If I do, I am concerned that it will end up being an issue with the control panel. Advice??
 
Change the cell type to T-9 in the settings.


For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading in each polarity.

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

https://tftestkits.net/K-1766-Taylor-Salt-Test-p31.html

Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.
 
I have a K1766 that I am using to compare results with.
I changed to the correct T cell when it was replaced.
I use metric measurements. I converted the salinity numbers to US below.
How to I check polarity on this unit?

Cell: 3E1102-26
Control Panel: 3A1106-12

AUTO:
3300
18 (Celsius)
31.9
0
28P
-0
AL-1
r1.58
t-9

OFF:
3300
18
25.5 and was slowly increasing. After about 30 secs was 26.5
3.5
28P
-3300
AL-1
r1.58
t-9

AUTO (after off one minute):
3300
18
26.2
3.6
28P
-3200
AL-1
r1.58
t-9
 
The numbers look good.

The polarity changes when you turn it off and then back on.

The instant salinity is the same in both polarities and it matches the actual salinity, so it’s all good.
 
Glad to hear that numbers are okay! What about the fact that that the drop test is 2600 vs 3300 for swg? Doesn't the hi salt message appear at 3400 and therefore my cell could stop generating when it really shouldn't? I'm concerned about the 600-700 discrepancy which seems large.
Is high salinity going to make my thermistor more likely to fail or is that only if the actual salinty (drop test) is at the higher end?
Do you think that cleaning the salt cell even though it's 'new' would make any difference?
 
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