Hi we have a new raypack Gas heater 336a and it’s been working great! Today my variable speed pump turned off when the heater was on and the heater shut off too. I’ve tried resetting the circuit, and turning on/off. The heater display is blank. I can see a dim light come on when powered in but that’s it. It’s also not turning on from the remote control....any suggestions please? TIA
I need help please!! Raypack heater
- Thread starter Rainbow7
- Start date
It most likely tripped a hi-limit. There are two of them on that unit. There's also a reset button on the control board if you haven't tried resetting it yet.
Oh wow! Graet! Do you have any tips on resetting the tripped hi-temp? also any links to pics of the reset button? I'll share this info with my husband, he is the handy one ;-))
Download the manual for the Raypak heaters and there are wiring diagrams in there as well as a layout of the board.
Raypak 206A - 406A Manual
You'll have to access the hi limits to see if you can reset them. If they're not re-settable you'll have to replace them.
Raypak 206A - 406A Manual
You'll have to access the hi limits to see if you can reset them. If they're not re-settable you'll have to replace them.
Thank you so much! You give us hope 
Is the "reset button" you are referring to called the Program Mode Button (SW1)? Also, any info to help us get started in testing the hi-limits? We have the automatic hi-limit Polymer header....(not ASME) we have a volt meter as well. Just not sure how to check it. Also we pressed the mode button and up arrow for 7 seconds like the manual suggest, but we still get no display at all, just a light.....I think our next step is to open it up and press the Program Mode Button on the circuit board? Would you agree? Thanks in advance for your assistance!
Is the "reset button" you are referring to called the Program Mode Button (SW1)? Also, any info to help us get started in testing the hi-limits? We have the automatic hi-limit Polymer header....(not ASME) we have a volt meter as well. Just not sure how to check it. Also we pressed the mode button and up arrow for 7 seconds like the manual suggest, but we still get no display at all, just a light.....I think our next step is to open it up and press the Program Mode Button on the circuit board? Would you agree? Thanks in advance for your assistance!
The first thing to do is test the Hi-Limit switches for continuity. If one of those is tripped you won't get any power through them.
Ok thanks so much for pointing us in the right direction. Im going to continue to look for a video or something on testing the hi-low switches. I haven't found one yet....I really appreciate your time.
So I gave my hubby all the info. He said he jumpered across each limit switches and turned everything on and we still didn't get a display, just a light. We will pull in the morning to check continuity, but its dark now. Will update with progress. TIA
I forgot to mention that I also have a Jandy JI2000 and a pool side spa remote hooked up. Do you think it could have anything to do with the built in fireman switch? The sad thing is it's a brand new heater, we've just remodels our pool and bought the heater and its only been running about a month :-(( I'm just sick over it.
Since it's brand new I would contact Raypac and let them look at it. It's sounding like a bad display board, which would be under warranty.
The issue is my hubby installed it and I don't think they will cover when its not a lisenced professional :-((( Its only 45 days old and has been working great until this happened.
I'd still call them. Most companies give a 60 day warranty even on self installed units. And they may help you out with a good will gesture.
Hi there, so we tested the Hi-Limit switches. Both are good with continuity and showed 1.7 & 1.8 ohms. Also tested the rollout sensor, continuity 1.8ohms. We need to check the pressure switch and transformer now, but its raining. Still noticed back lighting is coming on in display when unit is "on" but still no numbers/letters.
How do I test the circuit board?
When the pump shut the flow of water down, it should have detected that and then killed the power, to prevent a melt down via the pressure switch....Where would it have killed the power from? the transformer or circuit board?
Any help is much appreciated!!
130volt each side coming in to the transformer on the 240 side, 28Volts coming out. DOes this sound OK? Or is this a problem?
Also replaced the 5 amp blade fuse on circuit board, did nothing.
Does this sound like the PC board failed? Anyway to test it??
Would changing the blade fuse to a 3 amp fuse or wiring inline a 3 amp fuse off the lowside of transformer to PC board help to prevent this type of problem in the future?
thank you
Also replaced the 5 amp blade fuse on circuit board, did nothing.
Does this sound like the PC board failed? Anyway to test it??
Would changing the blade fuse to a 3 amp fuse or wiring inline a 3 amp fuse off the lowside of transformer to PC board help to prevent this type of problem in the future?
thank you
Adding a fuse probably wouldn't help depending on why the board failed. If it was a power spike that caused the failure, then a surge suppressor may help, but if it was lightning it likely wouldn't stop it.
Thanks. The heater died when the pump turned off and the heater was running.,,,,,