I give up on Aquapure

[JasonLion]

Water temperature has a dramatic effect on the amount of chlorine consumed in an outdoor pool. Water temperature also has some effect on an indoor pool, though not nearly as large an effect as it has outdoors. There are a number of reasons for this, most of them indirect effects. Some algae is always getting blow into an outdoor pool that isn't covered. At higher temperatures these small amounts of algae grow more quickly which means that they consume more chlorine before dying off than they do at lower temperatures.

Chlorine can also break down spontaneously. This is fairly slow at normal swimming pool temperatures and concentrations, but starts to be significant at spa temperatures or in bleach bottles (high concentrations). Temperature also affects the rate that UV breaks down chlorine, though that is again a rather small effect.

 

[Guest]

Thank you Jason

 

[bk406]

I'll give you the indirect effects of temperature. However, the implication was that 88 degree water would break down chlorine faster than say water at 82 degrees based on water temp ALONE. If that were the case, indoor pool or outdoor, the breakdown would be equal given the same temp. My response was based on not assuming any indirect effects. If that was not the implication and the INDIRECT effects were what was being discussed, then i stand corrected.
However, the OP was concerned about his generator not keeping up. I don't think the problem is a couple of degrees in water temp nor phosphates.

 

[Strannik]

I'll give you the indirect effects of temperature. However, the implication was that 88 degree water would break down chlorine faster than say water at 82 degrees based on water temp ALONE. If that were the case, indoor pool or outdoor, the breakdown would be equal given the same temp. My response was based on not assuming any indirect effects. If that was not the implication and the INDIRECT effects were what was being discussed, then i stand corrected.
However, the OP was concerned about his generator not keeping up. I don't think the problem is a couple of degrees in water temp nor phosphates.

if your pool has a water temperature of less than 50 degrees a lot of SWGs will turn off, because at this temperature you virtually don't need any chlorine for a pool to stay ok.

as far as direct effects go - temperature affects evaporation, so the hotter the pool the quicker your chlorine goes up in the air

 

[dschlic1]

It appears that this pool has an unusually large chlorine demand. According to my calculations, using a GoldLine T-15 cell at 100% production for 7 hours should produce 2.5 ppm FC per day. I suggest an overnight FC loss test.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

BK, I would agree.

 

[aquaman]

>Did you not add any chlorine over that period of time? Or did you let the generarator do the work?<

just the generator

>At a CYA level of 50-60, the target chlorine level should be around 7 ppm.<

My kit only goes to 5.
Should I push CYA higher?

>What was the setting for the generator?
Have you ever performed an overnight chlorine loss test?<

I had it up to 100% for 8hrs a day. That's when I became frustrated and wondered if the thing was kaput. Need to read more on overnight Cl loss test.


>According to my calculations, using a GoldLine T-15 cell at 100% production for 7 hours should produce 2.5 ppm FC per day. I suggest an overnight FC loss test.
It appears that this pool has an unusually large chlorine demand. According to my calculations, using a GoldLine T-15 cell at 100% production for 7 hours should produce 2.5 ppm FC per day. I suggest an overnight FC loss test.<

That's helpful thanks.

Bob

 

[bk406]

I'd start with the overnight chlorine loss test and go from there. That will tell you if your chlorine loss is from organics in the water. The cliff notes version is that you measure the chlorine level 30 -60 minutes after the last addition of chlorine or after you turn off the generator. Do this after the sun goes down. The next morning, take another measurement (before the sun hits the pool). If no organics are present that consume chlorine, there should be less than a 1 ppm loss (most often < or = 0.5 ppm loss). If thats the case, then an investigation into generator function, stabilizer levels, etc can be investigated. But, the overnight loss test is easy to do and it's an easy thing to fix if your loss is due to organics in the water. If it were me, i would do this test first and go from there.
Actually, the first thing you need to do is get a better free chlorine test kit. One that has a FAS-DPD test. The one you have is not adequate for an overnight loss test or for shocking if that's what you need.
As far as your CYA being too low, maybe. Central dogma with a SWCG says a CYA level of 70-80. I have run mine with a level of 80 down to 50-60 ppm. I can't really tell much difference between chlorine loss and generator function at 60 as compared to 80, even in the summer. But, i live at higher latitudes so the UV isnt as intense (most of the time) as in the southern USA, so YMMV. I wouldn't change anything in terms of stabilizer levels until you do the overnight loss test.