I fixed it till it's broke

[JoyfulNoise]

The same test measures either Chlorine or Bromine, not AND, if you have never added Bromine to your pool then you don't have any. Few people use Bromine in swimming pools, however it is fairly popular with hot tubs, unlike chlorine bromine will not off gas so it stays in the water forever. As to your other questions, it is possible that over time the trichlor lowered your pH (trichlor is very acidic), and that corroded your heater and your heater guts was the source for the metals, I had that happen to a pool heater many years ago, and one day the pool turned st patricks day green.

+1 ^^^^

I agree. If you added sodium carbonate to clear water and it starts to turn green, that's metal (copper carbonate specifically). This theory is supported by the fact that your pH was excessively low (well below 6.8 by the sounds of it) and you have been using acidic trichlor tabs on a floater. I bet if you disconnect your heater, open it up and look at the internal side of the Cu pipes of the heat exchangers, they are probably thinned out from metal loss.

 

[chuck2385]

The pool store wants me to follow up with them in the next day or so. I'll make sure they run the test for metal.So if it is metal, what's next? Do I drain the pool? Do I continue the soda ash treatment and if so will the green color fade to clear again?

 

[Isaac-1]

This is a drain the pool no matter how you look at it if their CYA numbers are right in addition to the metals. This is likely also time to replace the heater.

 

[chuck2385]

OK. I can do that. One question still remains. How did the pH drop that low? I need to know to prevent it in the future. And btw, I really appreciate all of yalls help.

 

[pooldv]

Until we get a full set of reliable test results it is hard to say. Most likely the trichlor pucks crashed the PH. They are very acidic. And they are what put all the CYA in your pool. More here on that, Pool School - How to Chlorinate Your Pool

The PH crash caused the metal to precipitate into the water and turn it green. The good news is that the metal most likely came from algaecide and you can stop adding that. It is very unlikely that your city water added any measurable metals to your pool. If you are lucky a 50-60% water change will lower the metal content enough to make it a non-issue. Worst case you do 50% change again until the problem is solved.

Then you maintain your pool TFPC style and you're good to go!

 

[chuck2385]

So trichlor pucks plunged the pH. After years of using it, I test the pH. I see it's low and try to balance it with soda ash aka sodium bicarbonate. The soda ash reacts with the copper in the water from my heat exchanger(dissolved by the low pH or high acidicy of the water?) Turning it Army green.

 

[jblizzle]

Sodium bicarbonate is not soda ash. It is baking soda which raises TA and not really the pH.

 

[chuck2385]

I have soda ash. I thought it was the same

 

[pooldv]

Here is a handy reference page, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

 

[Texas Splash]

Wow Chuck. I was out yesterday but came back to read the progress on your thread. Your situation is a perfect example of how a pool store can not only exhaust your pocketbook, but literally cause damage to equipment either through inaccurate testing or lack of experience. Sorry you had to go through all of that. All the experts have pitched--in to get you on-track, and once you receive you test kit in the mail, I think you'll be even more surprised at the results if you haven't already started draining by then. Believe me, we've ALL been in just about the same situation as you using those products and free test results that were "supposed" to work. Utterly amazing. We'll get you back on track.

 

[chuck2385]

Thanks, every one for your help. I've been doing some reading on the site. I would have never guessed that there was that much to it. Good news. The dark green had gone away! I'm continuing the soda ash treatment and airating. I'm going to do some water replacement once I get a good test kit. The pool store said the cya is high at 130 and TA is low. I'll wait for the test kit to confirm.

 

[Richard320]

So trichlor pucks plunged the pH. After years of using it, I test the pH. I see it's low and try to balance it with soda ash aka sodium bicarbonate. The soda ash reacts with the copper in the water from my heat exchanger(dissolved by the low pH or high acidicy of the water?) Turning it Army green.

Check out this thread. Great pictures. Maintain your chemicals correctly

 

[kimkats]

The pool store said the cya is high at 130 and TA is low. I'll wait for the test kit to confirm.

THAT is what I love to hear!!! Good for you on taking over your own pool care! Your pool will be clearer than it ever has been before!

Kim

 

[chuck2385]

Is it normal to have a delayed result from a test for pH? I tested the pH after all this and initially it seems to read below 6.8. I left the sample in the vile, returning to it about 30 minutes later. The color in the vile had changed to a slight pink from the pale yellow it was earlier. The color matches with 7.2 could this mean there is some sort of latency with the reaction? I tested my tap water and it turned 7.6 pink instantly.

 

[Texas Splash]

Just about all the reagents will change colors if you let them sit. Some will change after only about 30 seconds to a minute. Always go with the most immediate color change and record. Have a great day.