How to Properly Run Plumbing Through Heat Exchanger?

[markayash]

My brain works different I would cut it right after the SWG and before sensor on the floor and start over.
I am also the guy who never buys enough parts and goes back to HD at least 1 or 2 times.

I would also put a valve with a union 6" form where it comes out of the wall. Or on the other side of the wall, not sure if that's underground

 

[Dirk]

Mark, the OP posted a pic in another thread that shows his setup right before the pump. There is already a two-way inline, you can't see it in the pics in this thread. And I think I see a second one up top on the return (pressure) side.

Like you, I'd be inclined to tear the whole thing apart and remake it all in my own image! So my advice was colored somewhat by my own preferences. The "other Mark" offers the more practical solution.

 

[markayash]

Cool, I am not practical In fact I probably have enough Jandy valves in my basement to do it for him.
I am bad about having an idea and buying valves off amazon and then changing my mind.
But since Covad and a little uncertainty I have stopped buying stuff for “ new ideas”

 

[xrabbi]

Thanks. In this system the three-way is manual only, not controlled by thermostat. So most of the time the valve will be open and water will pass through the heat exchanger even if the aquastat is not calling for heat and the boiler is not firing. We would manually close the valve during hot summer days or when we were putting in shock or other chemicals that should not go through the heat exchanger. I think the function of the flow switch is to ensure that the boiler doesn't fire and send hot water to the heat exchanger when there is no pool water coming through the heat exchanger. If that's the case, then having the flow switch anywhere other than in the isolated heat exchanger line seems not right, no?

 

[Dirk]

I hesitate to weigh in any further on a heater setup with which I have no experience. My very first post set up my "disclaimer," that my plumbing suggestions were based on if the exchange system works like my solar system. I'm only sharing that all the temp sensors and flow switches in my system (for two heaters and the SWG and the acid injector) can't ever get isolated by the solar system's bypass three-way. Sorry, that's all I can offer...

 

[xrabbi]

Per picture below, installed per Mark's suggestion with Dirk's drain fitting at bottom. Seems to run fine. The only problem now is that the cast iron of the heat exchanger cracked when the plumber tightended the boiler connection copper nipple . . . .

 

[Dirk]

Nice! And fast!! Sorry to hear about the exchanger. Man, that plumber.

The whole "worry about blocking the pump" deal is still an issue, but the reality is, with your pad below your water, you have at least three other valves that can starve/block your pump, so it is what it is. You can't remove all the handles!

Job well done!

 

[TishTash]

A better question: What was the plumber thinking? I‘d be super-interested in his answer / explanation / logic (or lack thereof)....