How to increase my FC/CC- Need help

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My daughter did the test @1pm. Did anyone try 5 ml test?

FC: 18 ppm

Added 1/3 gallon on 10% LC

Once pool clears I will do CC test. Does that sound reasonable?
This will save some reagent.
I already finished a bottle of cyanuric reagent.
 
There is no need to do a CC test each time. That is really only needed at the end of the SLAM to meet the three criteria for a successful SLAM.

Take care
 
Yay progress! The 5ml sample size has been covered in other threads, you can search the forum and read up on it, then if you have any final specific questions, we can tackle them, but the general info on 5mL is a search away, you got this! If you fail to find a good thread with an answer, let me know and I'll find you one (as long as you try first, I'll always try to make sure you get all your answers)
 

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Follow the three criteria for a successful SLAM --
You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
And the water is clear.
 
For measuring 5 ml, many pet stores and chemists (pharmacies) sell small measuring beakers for measuring liquid medicines. You can be sure by measuring 5 ml, pouring it into the test vial, then another 5 ml and see if it lines up with the 10 ml line in your test kit, and then you would know your 5 ml measures are reliable. If doing a 5 ml FC sample, each drop = 1.0 ppm FC. This is only suitable for maintaining shock level. When you get to the OCLT, go back to 10 ml sample size.
 
mknauss said:
Follow the three criteria for a successful SLAM --
You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
And the water is clear.
Click to expand...

Thanks
What order do check for these criteria?
First get CC lower and then do OCLT ?

Pool is bluish now but is cloudy . cannot see bottom yet.
 
First is crystal clear water. No use in doing the other two tests until you have that.
Then the OCLT and CC during the same test.

Take care.
 
No clarifier.

With a sand filter, when you are down to the very end of SLAM and need to 'polish' the water - use this Pool School - Add DE to a Sand Filter

You can safely swim in a pool that the FC is at shock level or below based on your CYA; you can see the bottom of the deep end; and your pH is between 7.2 and 7.8
 
The POOL GRADE DE is optional, only speeding up what your sand filter will do in its own time.

If after researching pool grade DE you decide it isn't right for you, there is another option called cellulose fiber (CF) that does roughly the same thing as DE in a sand filter - makes your clean sand act like it is kinda dirty and catch those smallest particles even faster than sand alone - requiring more frequent backwashes and yes, replacing the DE/CF after backwashes. Both options require a working PSI gauge, proper backwashing (bw/rinse/bw/rinse/filter). I think a big bag of CF is under $25. Again, totally optional if you want to speed things up.
 

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