How to handle old pump inlet higher than replacement pump inlet with plumbing

WannaPool

Well-known member
Feb 17, 2011
57
My current Pentair Pinnacle inlet centerline is 10.25".
The replacement pump inlet centerline (Intelliflow VSF) is 9.1".
The old pump is connected to the supply piping (1.5") through a male threaded couple (threads into the Pinnacle pump).

Is there any way to "drop" the supply line down 1.15 inches?

Lowering the supply manifold (replacing the piping, 2 ball shutoff valves, and a fairly new Jandy 4715 valve) seems like it will be a lot of work.
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
43,661
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Can you set the Intelliflo on a platform to meet the piping?
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
27,078

72a63587-71d4-4545-b4cb-ab7ba390ef63-jpeg.313581
 

WannaPool

Well-known member
Feb 17, 2011
57
Thanks for the advice. The photo below shows the current situation. The end of the supply line is a 1.5" male threaded adapter, which is screwed into the leaking pump. If I attach a female adapter to the male to continue the supply line to the new pump, it will effectively push it straight back... this would force me to use some type of 1/2" platform to raise the new pump up. BUT, if I could separate one of the fittings from the supply line (shown by possible cut lines) I would be able to use the 2x45's method, as posted by @JamesW. It would move the pump over a bit, but I could adjust the return line.

I've seen may videos online on different methods of removing glued PVC. Has anyone ever tried this?
Unglue PVC Fittings with Hole Saw


IMG_6988.jpg
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
27,078
How much pipe do you have on either side of the coupling?

I would probably cut through the coupling or male adapter so that you have 1.3" of pipe available.

You would then just have to remove a small ring of what's left on the pipe.

You can make a bunch of relief cuts and then the remaining fitting should be in small pieces that can be removed with a screwdriver or maybe a dremel type cutting wheel and then sand everything smooth.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
27,078
I would probably cut through the threaded adapter that screws into the pump and then make a bunch of relief cuts in the band that's left on the pipe using a hacksaw blade.

Assuming that you are trying to get 1-5/16" of pipe and you have 3/4" pipe now, you would cut into the fitting by about 5/8" and then remove the remaining band, which should be about 9/16" if the blade is 1/16" thick.

Then, use the hacksaw blade parallel with the pipe and cut off the remaining pieces.

Then, sand it smooth.

Glue the fittings and give it 12 hours to dry.

I would recommend using unions for the pump.
 
Last edited:

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
27,078
If you don't want to do the (2) 45s, you can get a thick rubber pad to sit the pump on.

Or, you can frame up a thin concrete pad with some wood and then pour in some wet concrete.

I would use a sand mix with no rocks.

Get high strength with reinforcing fibers.

I would mix some dry hydraulic cement into the dry mix to speed up the set time and increase the strength.

Adding hydraulic cement will make the mix set very quickly, so you have to be able to get the pad poured and leveled within a minute or two.
 

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WannaPool

Well-known member
Feb 17, 2011
57
Thanks @JamesW
I think the 2x45s will be the cleanest, as long as I have the room. The pump comes with 2" unions. I need to find the 1.5" to 2" reducer rings someplace, as I don't think the big box stores carry them.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
27,078
A 2 x 1.5 bushing should be available.

Get schedule 40 with the proper socket depth and not dwv.

The socket depth for a 1.5" fitting should be about 1-5/16" (1.3125").
 
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