How to Get These Walls Plumb

nobbyv

0
Jun 29, 2010
26
I bought a DIY rectangular inground pool kit from Pool Warehouse. Dig a hole, bolt together some steel walls in the hole, and drop a liner over the whole thing. There are braces every ~8' or so along the outside with turnbuckles to make the walls plumb. A concrete collar was then poured ~8" deep around the outside to lock the base of the walls in.

The issue is that as I'm backfilling with the recommended crushed gravel, the tops of the longer walls are bowing in. The pool will be getting an automatic cover that rides on rails, and the walls need to be parallel at the top or it will bind.

PW says to dig out the backfill, then wait until the liner and water are in to backfill again. But frankly, I don't think this will work: for reference, I put three 1800lb ratchet straps on three different mounting points along the top of the most bowed wall. I couldn't physically ratchet them anymore and the wall was still not plumb. I ended up having to connect the straps to the bucket of my farm tractor and (gently) reverse until the wall was plumb, then quickly jam on the brake so the tractor wouldn't get pulled back.

I have two of these iron pieces that something heavy was shipped to me in. My thought is to dig out the backfill, build a form around the outside of these pieces below grade, hammer some full-length rebar through the holes in them, then pour concrete around them. I can then hook some additional turnbuckes onto a few of the holes and hopefully get the walls plumb.

But if this doesn't work, I'm in trouble. Any other ideas on how to plumb up these walls? I think the iron pieces are a good start, but I'm concerned even with 4-6 pieces or rebar and a few hundred lbs of concrete it won't be enough to hold and the whole assembly will end up getting pulled toward the wall.

I'd welcome any input. I told my son he could have a pool party for his 9th birthday at the end of September!
 
I would say with the backfill there is no way you will ever get the walls plumb. I'd agree with PW that you need water in there to compensate for the outer wall pressure. But that is coming from someone who has zero personal experience. With all you've done, that is going to be a lot of extra work. Good luck with it!
 
Do you have a picture of what's going on? We had some pillowing of the interiors of the panels happen, probably due to some over zealous hand tamping, but the tops were plumb thanks to the turnbuckles.

Sorry they're being a pain.
 
You have other issues going on I think. The walls are rolled edge caps, they would bend if they bowed. I build this type of pool daily, the key it to have plumb walls when the collar is poured. If your walls moved and collar has set, it's very hard to fix. Only minute adjustments are possible. What does a string line down the wall length show you?
 
Can you show a lot more pictures of everything from the beginning?

Something was done incorrectly or the walls are really weak.

You will probably have to tear it out and redo it if you want to get it right.
 
This will make the walls plum, but I don't think that it is what you are talking about.
1628172163104.png
In any case, what walls did you get?

How were the turnbuckles installed?

How was the backfill added?
 
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bowed wall.jpeg


You should have a brace (aka "deadman") at every wall joint.

The bottom should be buried in the concrete footer (below the black line), which should create a very strong support.

Did you put a brace at every joint?

How much total concrete in cubic yards did you use for the footer?

What was the width and depth of the concrete?





1628175073662.png
 
At this point, you will probably need to dig out everything and check the braces to see why the walls are bowing.

At that point, you can get a gameplan to do it correctly.

You might have to remove everything and start over.

Are all of the walls bowing or just that one wall?

How was the backfill compacted?

1628176048929.png
1628176103064.png
 
The walls should be pinned at the bottom and then The top is adjusted by the brace to be vertical and straight.

Then, you pour the bond beam to lock everything in place.

If it is done correctly, the walls should not move unless you used a lot of force to try to compact the backfill like maybe driving a backhoe over the backfill.

1628177261709.png

1628177285081.png
 
You have other issues going on I think. The walls are rolled edge caps, they would bend if they bowed. I build this type of pool daily, the key it to have plumb walls when the collar is poured. If your walls moved and collar has set, it's very hard to fix. Only minute adjustments are possible. What does a string line down the wall length show you?

I haven't re-run a string, but for example on the wall in the picture I attached, a 4' level shows the top is about 1.25" out of plumb from the bottom. It was perfectly plumb before backfilling.

You should have a brace (aka "deadman") at every wall joint.

The bottom should be buried in the concrete footer (below the black line), which should create a very strong support.

Did you put a brace at every joint?

How much total concrete in cubic yards did you use for the footer?

What was the width and depth of the concrete?

There is a brace at every wall joint, with the stakes driven into the ground on the back of the brace, thedn bolted to the brace itself. I poured 6 yards of concrete for a collar ~24" wide and 8-9" deep all the way around. The extra concrete was used underneath the stairs and tanning ledge, as recommended.

The walls should be pinned at the bottom and then The top is adjusted by the brace to be vertical and straight.

Then, you pour the bond beam to lock everything in place.

If it is done correctly, the walls should not move unless you used a lot of force to try to compact the backfill like maybe driving a backhoe over the backfill.
The walls were pinned using the supplied rebar, then plumbed using the braces and turnbuckles bolted to the top, A plate compactor was used to compact the backfill in approximately 8" lifts. You can see it in my picture. This has been, however, an EXTREMELY wet summer, with many, many downpours. The patio area that's in the foreground of my picture receives a lot of stormwater runoff from multiple roof peaks intersecting there. You can see the grate drains I am installing to try and cope with it. There were multiple times when water was absolutely gushing into the pool, under the walls, into the overdig space, etc.
 

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I would dig it all out and see what failed.

You might be able to salvage what you have, but it won't be easy.

It looks like 1 or 2 of the braces probably broke loose.

Maybe someone missed a bolt?
 
Man I hate you are in this situation...this is fixable, and it's going to royally suck doing it. As others have said you need to remove the back fill and re-plumb and brace it again. If it was plumb after the collar pour, that is good news. Something...somewhere after that point failed. could have been a missed bolt on the brace or threads pulling in the turn buckle.

I will say on my polymer wall pool I had to be careful not to put the stone in to fast i.e. a whole tractor bucket dump all at once or it would really push on the walls. My short wall under the diving board bows out a tiny bit. That was my 1st wall to back fill and I figured out really quick that you need to add it slowly. After I figured that out I did not have any issues on the other walls. I kept my strings up on each wall from corner to corner so I could watch for bowing. It's how I noticed the diving board wall, I would have never caught it with the naked eye and it would have gotten worse with each bucket of stone. The steel walls should be more tolerant to back filling pressure, but maybe not. If you are using the recommended stone, I don't think you need to compact ever 8" either...it locks in pretty tight on it's own.

Keep us posted...
 
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All that dirt is a lot of weight, and I assume you compacted it as you backfilled? I used clear gravel for backfil when I built mine so there was no need. I think you need to excavate the dirt and the straighten the walls. Then drop the liner and fillnyje pool as you backfil. Otherwise you are asking way too much out of those thin steel walls.
 
I can see the angles on the wall sections. Whatever method you used to backfill likely popped the spot welds on the C channel supports. Theres no way to fix this without digging out from behind the walls and see what damage there is. Have you checked with a string line or even a tape measure inside the pool at wall bottom to see if wall bottoms are parallel on long sides. It almost looks like collar pushed in too. Usually wall cap will wrinkle if pushed in like yours only at the top. And btw never plate compact near a pool wall. That's what clean gravel is for
 
Oh man. My heart and back aches for you. Keep the thread updated.
 
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