How to best remove white/gray residue particles at bottom of pool
- Thread starter Mlange126
- Start date
Hard to tell much from that pic. Based on what I think you are telling me, you need to SLAM the pool. The instructions for doing so are in Pool School.
Those instructions must be followed exactly if you want the SLAM to work. It will get rid of the debris on the bottom of your pool and prepare the pool to close.
Those instructions must be followed exactly if you want the SLAM to work. It will get rid of the debris on the bottom of your pool and prepare the pool to close.
Good Morning Dave. I completed the SLAM process. CC is 0 and I passed the OCLT test. My FC held pretty steady yesterday within a 1ppm range and my current reading is:
FC: 11
CC: 0
CYA: 46
pH: 7.8
TA: 100
The only thing I overlooked was not letting the water come to room temperature before doing the CYA test. What are your suggestions for any adjustments prior to closing? What is a good FC level to be at? I'd prefer on the high side but I know it's on the shock high side now. We plan to put in a chlorine ball for the winter which we had success with last year, unless you can recommend something different.
BTW, I see that for SWGs the CYA should be between 60-90ppm but I have paperwork from Hayward for the Aquarite that says CYA should be between 30-50ppm. Any thoughts on why?
I really appreciate all your help. I love the PoolMath app - it's awesome! I've recommended it to a friend.
FC: 11
CC: 0
CYA: 46
pH: 7.8
TA: 100
The only thing I overlooked was not letting the water come to room temperature before doing the CYA test. What are your suggestions for any adjustments prior to closing? What is a good FC level to be at? I'd prefer on the high side but I know it's on the shock high side now. We plan to put in a chlorine ball for the winter which we had success with last year, unless you can recommend something different.
BTW, I see that for SWGs the CYA should be between 60-90ppm but I have paperwork from Hayward for the Aquarite that says CYA should be between 30-50ppm. Any thoughts on why?
I really appreciate all your help. I love the PoolMath app - it's awesome! I've recommended it to a friend.
Finishing the SLAM requires three things...
A. Pool water should be crystal clear with no sign of algae anywhere
B. CC's test result should be .5 ppm or less
C. You should not lose more than 1 ppm FC overnight.
So that residue at the bottom of your pool causes you to"fail" the SLAM because your water isn't crystal clear by the TFP definition. Sounds a little picky at first but it's reasoning is solid. You don't want ANY type of debris. Is that residue now gone?
PS - not sure what a chlorine ball is. Is that CYA 46 from your own testing? If so, always report CYA in increments of 10 (30 ppm, 50 ppm, etc) and always round up (46 CYA report as 50 CYA)
A. Pool water should be crystal clear with no sign of algae anywhere
B. CC's test result should be .5 ppm or less
C. You should not lose more than 1 ppm FC overnight.
So that residue at the bottom of your pool causes you to"fail" the SLAM because your water isn't crystal clear by the TFP definition. Sounds a little picky at first but it's reasoning is solid. You don't want ANY type of debris. Is that residue now gone?
PS - not sure what a chlorine ball is. Is that CYA 46 from your own testing? If so, always report CYA in increments of 10 (30 ppm, 50 ppm, etc) and always round up (46 CYA report as 50 CYA)
Yes, there is no longer any residue. We vacuumed it all out and we cleaned the filter.
The chlorine ball we used last year was called an Aquapill Winterpill.
A few weeks ago I purchased a "winterizing chemical kit" from the pool store assuming it had the winterpill in it again but I just opened it and there are the following two items inside: a bag labeled "winterizing powder" and a bottle labeled "liquid winterizer". The powder instructions say to pour it through the skimmer and the liquid one says pour directly into the water. Ironically, the seem to be the same thing - Alkyl Dimethyl Benzly Ammonium Chloride.
What do you recommend adding to the pool prior to putting the cover on? Also, are my levels acceptable for closing or do they need to be adjusted? I corrected my previous reading now knowing that I have to round up the CYA.:
FC: 11
CC: 0
CYA: 50
pH: 7.8
TA: 100
The chlorine ball we used last year was called an Aquapill Winterpill.
A few weeks ago I purchased a "winterizing chemical kit" from the pool store assuming it had the winterpill in it again but I just opened it and there are the following two items inside: a bag labeled "winterizing powder" and a bottle labeled "liquid winterizer". The powder instructions say to pour it through the skimmer and the liquid one says pour directly into the water. Ironically, the seem to be the same thing - Alkyl Dimethyl Benzly Ammonium Chloride.
What do you recommend adding to the pool prior to putting the cover on? Also, are my levels acceptable for closing or do they need to be adjusted? I corrected my previous reading now knowing that I have to round up the CYA.:
FC: 11
CC: 0
CYA: 50
pH: 7.8
TA: 100
I would return all pool store products and bring the FC to SLAM value. (for 50 CYA, that's 20 ppm FC).
I would not close the pool until water temp dipped below 60 F and I would open it in the Spring before the water temp reached 60. That's it......no reason to spend money on added chemistry. Some folks will suggest polyquat 60 as an additive for prevention and that's up to you.
I assume you have prepared your equipment and exposed piping.
Ok thank you. I appreciate all the information and advice. I just found the write up for closing an above ground pool and see about the water temp which I didn't think about before.
Re our equipment, that's my boyfriends department. He works with very large tanks and pumps for living so that part we've got covered.
Re our equipment, that's my boyfriends department. He works with very large tanks and pumps for living so that part we've got covered.
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