For a variety of reasons I'm not gonna be able to open the pool this season/summer.
I'm used to treating the pool all winter long with the mesh cover on, the pump not running, dosing it with chlorine and whatever else it needs which is usually nothing because it is properly closed/winterized in the fall.
So now I need to treat the mesh-covered pool without a pump running all summer long which obviously is more of a challenge than during the cold winter.
To date, I have indeed been treating it with about weekly tests and dosing with the appropriate chemicals. I assume I should keep doing this all summer long? The reason I ask is because on one hand obviously the pool is not to be used for swimming so in that regard one could just let it go to a green swamp and deal with it at the next spring opening. On the other hand, it makes sense to keep the water reasonably balanced for the health of the plaster etc (the plaster is in bad condition and needs to be replaced but I'm going to get away with crummy plaster for as many years as I can).
Do you guys recommend I keep treating it, trying to maintain reasonable chemistry/conditions? The water is clear (TC was never below 4) but obviously there's algae in the pool/visible green at some places in the plaster up high where the water level varies before gets dropped back down with the sump pump.
It really is up not that much trouble for me to treat it because I do it all winter long every winter.
Here are the latest test results
6.18.2020
pH 7.4
TC 4
TA 70
CH 180
CYA 40
water temperature 72°F and of course that's gonna get hotter as summer proceeds but with the mesh cover on it is remaining cooler than it otherwise would be
CSI corrosion of plaster likely
That lower pH creates a problem for the CSI, this low pH issue was the concern of my original post in this thread,
www.troublefreepool.com
I was using some free pucks up and figured why not get the CYA early in the spring when I knew that the CYA was probably zero; there are no more pucks from this point forward.
I did indeed get the TA up to TA 90 as recommended above and the TA has since fallen to 70 today, so no big deal for me to get the TA back up to 90 if that is what you think I should do?
I can get the CH up there also no problem if you think I should?
If you guys think I should treat the pool all summer long, what targets should I shoot for with TA & CH?
How would you guys handle this, treat the covered pool the best I can all summer or forget it let it go green?
Water level question: no sense letting the water get to the tile line unless rain gets it there, right? That level (just below the where the tile starts) still gives the pool plenty of structural support, but no sense having the water higher than that for a variety of reasons and because it is very easy to lower with the sump pump, right?
Thank you
I'm used to treating the pool all winter long with the mesh cover on, the pump not running, dosing it with chlorine and whatever else it needs which is usually nothing because it is properly closed/winterized in the fall.
So now I need to treat the mesh-covered pool without a pump running all summer long which obviously is more of a challenge than during the cold winter.
To date, I have indeed been treating it with about weekly tests and dosing with the appropriate chemicals. I assume I should keep doing this all summer long? The reason I ask is because on one hand obviously the pool is not to be used for swimming so in that regard one could just let it go to a green swamp and deal with it at the next spring opening. On the other hand, it makes sense to keep the water reasonably balanced for the health of the plaster etc (the plaster is in bad condition and needs to be replaced but I'm going to get away with crummy plaster for as many years as I can).
Do you guys recommend I keep treating it, trying to maintain reasonable chemistry/conditions? The water is clear (TC was never below 4) but obviously there's algae in the pool/visible green at some places in the plaster up high where the water level varies before gets dropped back down with the sump pump.
It really is up not that much trouble for me to treat it because I do it all winter long every winter.
Here are the latest test results
6.18.2020
pH 7.4
TC 4
TA 70
CH 180
CYA 40
water temperature 72°F and of course that's gonna get hotter as summer proceeds but with the mesh cover on it is remaining cooler than it otherwise would be
CSI corrosion of plaster likely
That lower pH creates a problem for the CSI, this low pH issue was the concern of my original post in this thread,
ph dropped (weird) so CSI is off
I still have my winter mesh cover on & will until end of May but I test & dose the pool anyways & hand brush for circulation all winter 12.29.2019 CH 260 Target 375 with 257 oz by volume of calcium chloride shy at 243 CSI: balanced 3.28.2020 pH 7.5 FC 7 CC TA 50 CH 220-230 CYA...
www.troublefreepool.com
I was using some free pucks up and figured why not get the CYA early in the spring when I knew that the CYA was probably zero; there are no more pucks from this point forward.
I did indeed get the TA up to TA 90 as recommended above and the TA has since fallen to 70 today, so no big deal for me to get the TA back up to 90 if that is what you think I should do?
I can get the CH up there also no problem if you think I should?
If you guys think I should treat the pool all summer long, what targets should I shoot for with TA & CH?
How would you guys handle this, treat the covered pool the best I can all summer or forget it let it go green?
Water level question: no sense letting the water get to the tile line unless rain gets it there, right? That level (just below the where the tile starts) still gives the pool plenty of structural support, but no sense having the water higher than that for a variety of reasons and because it is very easy to lower with the sump pump, right?
Thank you
