How does my PIPE Diagram look? Should I move forward?

[moyerj26]

Hello,

I am completely new to this and have tried to learn from other diagrams. Would anyone with knowledge let me know if I am set up good?

I will not heat the pool, just the spa 99% of the time.
Spa is overflow with 8 jets. I'm not concerned about the spa jets having "Real spa pressure", more just a place to sit and waterfall into pool.

I believe my pump and filter have 1.5 inch intakes. Not sure what size pipe to use between pump, filter, heater.

Anything I need to do different for a salt pool heater?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Hi Jeremy,

Do you plan to have some type of automation system? If not, how are you going to limit the amount of chlorine getting into your Spa? For example: When the Spa mode is selected on a Pentair automation system, the SWCG's output is reduced by about 90%. This is because you don't want the same amount of chlorine that would be going into a big pool, to be sent to a small Spa area where people are sitting.

Since the SWCG only produces chlorine when the pump is running, there is no need for the check valve on return side.

I "assume" you are building this pool yourself??? If so, I highly recommend that you ditch the single speed pump, as it will cost a fortune to run. Suggest a 2-speed or Variable speed pump. With a VS pump you could crank it up when in the Spa.

You may already know this, but running the spill over on a constant basis will drive your pH through the roof.

I see no input from the main drain?? Do you plan to have a main drain?

Other than that, I see no major issues. Let's see what the others have to say.

Jim R.

 

[setsailsoon]

Jeremy,

Need more info please. Answer depend on why you're asking. Is this a new-build or existing pool and updating/rebuilding equipment? I'll make the following additional comments with an assumption this will be a new build:

• Where is the cleaner plumbing? You should have plumbing in parallel with the skimmer for a suction cleaner or a separate pump for a pressure type cleaner. If it's new build I'd at least install plumbing and equipment pad space for both.
• You can eliminate and save the cost/complication of the 3-way valves on the heater in and out. You can use union couplings on the final connections to the heater in/out for easy removal of the heater.

I hope this helps.

Chris