" hot " showing on aquabrite display for 3 weeks now
- Thread starter simonoaks
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,658
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Do you mean a Hayward Aquarite SWG and not aquabrite?
www.troublefreepool.com
If the water temperature reads greater than 140F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and the cell needs to be replaced. It may be a problem with the temperature sensor in the cell or a problem with the circuit board reading the temperature sensor.
If you have a multimeter, you can check the resistance of the thermistor in the cell (pin 6 against pin 10 on the plug).
Some people have patched into the cable and installed an external temperature sensor.
Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
HOT Water Temperature
LCD display will read “HOT” when the water temperature is above 140 F.If the water temperature reads greater than 140F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and the cell needs to be replaced. It may be a problem with the temperature sensor in the cell or a problem with the circuit board reading the temperature sensor.
If you have a multimeter, you can check the resistance of the thermistor in the cell (pin 6 against pin 10 on the plug).
Some people have patched into the cable and installed an external temperature sensor.
I doubt you are running the heater but what's the actual water temperature?
Using a multimeter, open the T-Cell and test the resistance of the T-Cell thermistor. Or cut either the Red or Blue wire and test to see if the Temperature display is 77.
Reference the T-Cell pinout here > Hayward T-Cell Pinout
I'm sure other experts will not hesitate to point you in the right direction on how you can jury rig a thermistor replacement.
Using a multimeter, open the T-Cell and test the resistance of the T-Cell thermistor. Or cut either the Red or Blue wire and test to see if the Temperature display is 77.
Reference the T-Cell pinout here > Hayward T-Cell Pinout
I'm sure other experts will not hesitate to point you in the right direction on how you can jury rig a thermistor replacement.
Water temp is 88. I have had a rag over the clear plastic of the cell.
My cell is under a year old, and comes with 3 year warranty, so will contact the supplier - pool supply unlimited. Thx .
I do not have a multimeter
Is this what you have?
Does the cover plate pop off?
If yes, can you pop it off and show the wires?
The 3 year warranty should cover the defect.
Holding the plug vertically with the cord going down and looking at the connection points. 1 is top left, 2 is top right, 3 is second down left and so on with 9 being lower left and 10 being lower right.
- 1) Black - Power to cell
- 2) White - Power to cell
- 3) Black - Power to cell
- 4) White - Power to cell
- 5) Brown - Not used
- 6) Red - Goes to thermistor
- 7) Orange - Not used on older models, used for cell ID chip on new models.
- 8) Yellow - Not used on older models, used for cell ID chip on new models.
- 9) Green - Not used
- 10) Blue - Goes to thermistor.
LCD display will read “HOT” when the water temperature is above 140 F.
140 degrees is 2,489 ohms and the ohms go down as the temp goes up, so the resistance (Ohms) must be below 2,489 ohms.
If you can access the thermistor wires, you can wire in a new thermistor with an external thermistor installed near the cell.
Red and Blue are the thermistor wires for Hayward.
Hayward added the orange and yellow wires for an ID chip that identifies authentic Hayward cell for the newer systems.
The Calimar might use different color wires, but they will be the ones that go to the thermistor and to points 6 and 10 on the plug.
Last edited:
I suspect that this cap should pop off fairly easily and reveal the wires.
Identify the power wires and the thermistor wires.
You can probably drill a hole in the cover cap to run in the wires for the external thermistor.
Identify the power wires and the thermistor wires.
You can probably drill a hole in the cover cap to run in the wires for the external thermistor.
Yes, thx!
I contacted manufacturer, and they sent out a new sensor. However the old one was embedded deep into a rock hard plastic cap. I sent them a pic and they said they not seen that before, so just shipped a new cell.
However, I now also think I have an issue (separate) with the SWG. The countdown to manually input salt level, STARTS at 2500 , not the usual 3800, so I cannot enter in the 3000 it is at. So, it now has the not generating error. I called Hayward, and they said they are getting this issue A LOT and I need to buy a new motherboard. I will post a thread on here to see if this is a know problem with a specific component, like a resistor or something, that I can swap out with a soldering iron, instead of a whole new board. thx !
I contacted manufacturer, and they sent out a new sensor. However the old one was embedded deep into a rock hard plastic cap. I sent them a pic and they said they not seen that before, so just shipped a new cell.
However, I now also think I have an issue (separate) with the SWG. The countdown to manually input salt level, STARTS at 2500 , not the usual 3800, so I cannot enter in the 3000 it is at. So, it now has the not generating error. I called Hayward, and they said they are getting this issue A LOT and I need to buy a new motherboard. I will post a thread on here to see if this is a know problem with a specific component, like a resistor or something, that I can swap out with a soldering iron, instead of a whole new board. thx !
Basic AquaRite Diagnostics.
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:- Report all diagnostic readings when you..
- Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
- Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
- Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
- What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
- What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
Cell Diagnostics.
Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:- Default salt display
- Pool temp
- Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
- Cell current
- Desired output (% of the knob)
- Instant salinity
- Product name
- Software revision (r.XX)
- Cell type
How will anyone see it ? lol
It is a totally different issue and nothing to do with this current Cell thread.
People with same SWG board would not come across the info on this thread, right ?
You don't need a new thread because you already have the preeminent expert helping you already. I don't understand how you don't see that.
I took this video. I have a brand new spare cell, but I suspect it is the SWG, so do not want to mess with cell unless it is the best next step. What do you think? Many thx ! Google Photos
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,658
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Thx. That worked in terms of getting rid of the "hot" on the display. However, the salt countdown is only starting at 2500 and my level is 3000 ( using Taylor test kit). Appreciate any next steps you can recommend. cheers !
Basic AquaRite Diagnostics.
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:- Report all diagnostic readings when you..
- Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
- Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
- Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
- What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
- What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
Cell Diagnostics.
Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:- Default salt display
- Pool temp
- Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
- Cell current
- Desired output (% of the knob)
- Instant salinity
- Product name
- Software revision (r.XX)
- Cell type
Check the instant salinity reading and then cycle power to reverse polarity and recheck the instant salinity reading. The numbers should be about the same +/- 200 ppm.
You can get the age of the cell from the serial number. It will be 3Exx, where xx is the year it was made.
Get at least 3 independent salinity readings to be 100% sure about the actual salinity.
Last edited:
Hi, the salt readings done manually with Taylor test kit were 3200,3400,3200.
Here is what the display shows: https://youtube.com/shorts/N9mVuJXWvTo?si=Q6ycmrrwxC0wbcik
Really appreciate your help, it is costing me a fortune in bleach - about 30 gallons so far lol. thx
cheers
Similar threads
