High TA Low pH, which to tackle first?

[chapterthree]

I'm newish to the forum, I believe I've shared/posted my PoolMath test results to my account, are you all able to see those to see my test results?

I have high TA (110) and low pH (7.3). The instructions to correct this are somewhat in conflict, so I'm not sure how to correct this.

My TA got high because I dosed for low TA based on strip results .. my current results are now from my K2006C.

I have a 50lbs bag of Calcium Chloride to start working on the CH, but I don't want to do too many things at once.

 

[mknauss]

Your pH will rise. When it hits 8, lower it to 7.6. The TA will then lower.

Why are you adding calcium to your pool water? There is no need with a fiberglass pool.

 

[chapterthree]

Your pH will rise. When it hits 8, lower it to 7.6. The TA will then lower.

Hmm, so I don't need to do anything right now for those?

Why are you adding calcium to your pool water? There is no need with a fiberglass pool.

I have waterline tile... and PoolMath says it's low I shouldn't be increasing my CH to recommended levels?

 

[mknauss]

Hmm, so I don't need to do anything right now for those?

No. Nothing to act on.

I have waterline tile

How is it grouted?

 

[pjt]

You can aerate if you want to speed up the pH rise without affecting TA. Or you can do nothing and the pH will slowly rise over time. What's the TA and CH of your fill water?

 

[chapterthree]

How is it grouted?

It's a glass tile and I believe it is a rubberized grout, it is slightly squishy. The pool manufacturer (Latham) came out to install it after the pool was installed, so I believe they used the 'correct' materials.

What's the TA and CH of your fill water?

I'm on a well and my untreated water is high in iron and sulfur so we had water trucked in.

 

[mknauss]

With the grout being a non cement based product, your CH is fine as is.

 

[chapterthree]

Interesting, OK. So are you guys saying my chemistry is fine right now, nothing to address immediately, and just let the pH float upward which should lower TA?

I have an automatic cover that stays closed all the time unless I'm using it, not sure if that factors in?

As for the CH, is there a particular number I should be targeting in my situation? And is there a way I can make PoolMath not complain to me that my CH is outside the recommended range?

I will be adding a SWG here soon, does any of the above change with that addition?

 

[Leebo]

As for the CH, is there a particular number I should be targeting in my situation? And is there a way I can make PoolMath not complain to me that my CH is outside the recommended range?

Settings > Advanced Settings > Hide Ideal range alerts > Hide Recommended range alerts

 

[chapterthree]

Settings > Advanced Settings > Hide Ideal range alerts > Hide Recommended range alerts

I presume that's for all measurements? Would be cool if it could be disabled per measurement. I'd still like the reminders for FC for example (since that changes with CYA).

 

[mknauss]

just let the pH float upward which should lower TA?

When your pH hits 8, lower it to 7.6. The acid you add to do that will lower the TA.

As for the CH, is there a particular number I should be targeting in my situation?

You need some CH to inhibit staining of your fiberglass and to limit foaming. Anything over 100 ppm will be sufficient.

I have an automatic cover that stays closed all the time unless I'm using it, not sure if that factors in?

You likely can maintain a lower CYA if you wish. Also your pH rise will be limited as you are not releasing CO2 with the cover on.

I will be adding a SWG here soon, does any of the above change with that addition?

A higher TA may allow creation of scale within the SWCG cell at a higher rate. If you see scale flakes out of your returns, lower the TA.

 

[pjt]

So are you guys saying my chemistry is fine right now, nothing to address immediately

For CYA, round up to the nearest 10. Your CYA is 60. Your FC is too low for that CYA. For LC @ CYA 60, your target FC is 7-9. Don't let your FC drift below that level. For the FC test, use the 10 ml sample (0.5 precision) to save time and reagents.

just let the pH float upward which should lower TA?

Adding MA will lower your TA, not the upwards pH drift.

 

[chapterthree]

When your pH hits 8, lower it to 7.6. The acid you add to do that will lower the TA.

Ahh gotcha!

You need some CH to inhibit staining of your fiberglass and to limit foaming. Anything over 100 ppm will be sufficient.

You likely can maintain a lower CYA if you wish. Also your pH rise will be limited as you are not releasing CO2 with the cover on.

A higher TA may allow creation of scale within the SWCG cell at a higher rate. If you see scale flakes out of your returns, lower the TA.

OK great, thanks for these! If it would ever stop raining and snowing around here, I'd love to get the cover open and turn on the waterfalls.

For CYA, round up to the nearest 10. Your CYA is 60. Your FC is too low for that CYA. For LC @ CYA 60, your target FC is 7-9. Don't let your FC drift below that level. For the FC test, use the 10 ml sample (0.5 precision) to save time and reagents.

Ahh OK, I was trying to estimate based on the log scale. So if the line is anywhere between 50 and 60, even if it's 51, then the CYA is 60?

I did not mean to get my CYA so high, was using the 3" pucks before finding this site. Also was using the strips before, and they were showing little to no CYA, which I wasn't necessarily concerned about since I have a cover and we only use the hot tub occasionally.

Adding MA will lower your TA, not the upwards pH drift.

OK gotcha!

 

[pjt]

Ahh OK, I was trying to estimate based on the log scale. So if the line is anywhere between 50 and 60, even if it's 51, then the CYA is 60?

Here's a deeper dive on CYA:

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

CYA Testing - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com