High PH, Low Alkalinity - need to SLAM

[IceShadow]

Wal-Mart

Check there for 10% chlorine:

Robot or human?

I have chlorinating tabs. Will that work?

Not for this. It will add CYA and you want liquid so it gets into the water and it’s all active. Tabs take time to dissolve. If you do have ammonia and the bacteria that makes it, the CYA will make things worse. They could be useful later but not yet.

 

[harrell_ashley]

This is the Clorox I have

 

[IceShadow]

Yeah, that isn’t meant for pools with the Cloromax. See if Walmart near you has some liquid chlorine for pools (Pool Essentials brand) You are going to need a LOT of chlorine to clear out a green pool. Like lots and lots of gallons.

 

[harrell_ashley]

Today I bought loads of liquid chlorine from wal mart. Yesterday I added too much muriatic acid and my Ph went from 8.4 to 6.0. I added soda ash today and I’m getting two different readings - on the opposite side of my return I get 7.0 and when I test on the side of the return, I get about 7.8.
This is after an hour of adding the soda ash. Should I just leave it alone until morning? Which reading would you look at? I see I need to get my Ph to 7.2 before I SLAM.

 

[harrell_ashley]

OK. You can use 10ml to test for FC, one scoop of powder, and each drop is 0.5ppm. That's close enough for us.

Have you tried adding 10ppm of liquid chlorine yet and seeing with the FC was after 10 minutes of mixing?

What is 10ppm for a 24k gallon pool?

 

[jeffchap]

What is 10ppm for a 24k gallon pool?

458 oz of 6.5% or 307 oz of 10%

PoolMath

Discover the calculator behind the perfect pool, PoolMath. Dealing with pools has allowed TFP to become the original authors of the best calculator on the net.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Katodude]

Something does not make sense. It is really hard to have a pH of 8.4 with a TA of 40. How old are your test reagents?

 

[harrell_ashley]

Something does not make sense. It is really hard to have a pH of 8.4 with a TA of 40. How old are your test reagents?

I took them on the same day.
Yesterday, my readings were 7.8 Ph and 60 TA. CYA and free chlorine is still 0. Going to add stabilizer and a little more Ph decreased. Hopefully I’ll get to the level it needs to be today to slam.

 

[Katodude]

Sorry, not how old are the tests. But how old are the testing chemicals. Old pH reagents always seem to test high for me.

 

[IceShadow]

Even if you're not SLAMming, get some chlorine in the pool. Otherwise you could very well be going backward.

 

[harrell_ashley]

Sorry, not how old are the tests. But how old are the testing chemicals. Old pH reagents always seem to test high for me.

Oh, just purchased the kit a few weeks ago. Okay expiration date is 2024

 

[harrell_ashley]

Even if you're not SLAMming, get some chlorine in the pool. Otherwise you could very well be going backward.

Took some readings today -

FC -17
CC - .5
Ph - 7.8 (really could be 7.7)
TA - 100

Did the pool math and the pic is what showed.
Not planning to do anything today, but am I on the right path? I know I need to purchase more muriatic acid today to get those levels down.

 

[duraleigh]

Oh, just purchased the kit a few weeks ago. Okay expiration date is 2024

The Taylor K-2006C actually publishes that expiration date?

 

[IceShadow]

Can’t measure CYA of 35. If it’s between 30 and 40, just round up and call it 40.

The pH test won’t work with FC over 10, so ignore it during the SLAM. Test often, get FC back to 16 with each test. Scrub and run your pump to filter. How is the pool looking?

 

[harrell_ashley]

The Taylor K-2006C actually publishes that expiration date?

On the bottles, yes. They have a best by date

 

[harrell_ashley]

Can’t measure CYA of 35. If it’s between 30 and 40, just round up and call it 40.

The pH test won’t work with FC over 10, so ignore it during the SLAM. Test often, get FC back to 16 with each test. Scrub and run your pump to filter. How is the pool looking?

Still green, but we think it’s a lighter green than what it was. Thanks for the info above. We have been 1/2 it! I’ve also included a pic of readings today. Ignore the 45 for CYA, will adjust to 50. Any suggestions or just keep on the path?

 

[Katodude]

Keep on the path.

The other option is if water is cheap do a partial water exchange. Let’s say about 1/2 your water. Dont stop your SLAM while draining, you want to keep killing algae.

You have dumped out a bunch of algae. You start the SLAM while the pool is half full and you are adding water.

It is more complicated than keep on the path, but an option.

 

[IceShadow]

If your CYA is 50 you are now targeting 20ppm of FC. Keep it up there with frequent testing. Brush often!

 

[harrell_ashley]

I had to call someone to come out. I was becoming frustrated. He added something and it totally changed the water overnight. It was something with ammonia in it, however, it still did not clear up the pool. He also changed the sand and when he turned the filter back on it was a total difference in my jets. Today, I am sitting here with a cloudy blue pool. My readings are:
FC - 1.5 ( I will add chlorine tonight to get to 3)
CC - .5
Ph - 7.2
TA - anywhere from 100 -125 because the color wasn’t quite red at the 4th drop (number of drops X 25)
Hardness - 275
CYA - probably 20. Less than 30 for sure because I could still see the black dot.

Husband added Super Water Clarifier around 2 today. Called for 1 oz per 5K gallons. He added 4 oz.

Guys, I’m at a lost. I don’t want to screw up the progress that was made because i was looking at a swamp. At least now it’s not such an eye sore!

 

[IceShadow]

You’re going to have to decide between our methods or the methods of others you might call on. They aren’t compatible. We have no idea what he added, so we don’t know what it did to the chemistry.

Read the SLAM Process again. That’s the way to go.