Hello. I have a 10x30’ Intex blow up pool. I tested the water today, and everything was fine but the CYA. I purchased some 3” tablets and possibly this caused higher CYA level? Over the weekend the pool was fine. Not sure what happened in two days. Not sure if I need a bunch of chemicals for a small pool. I am currently emptying the pool. Help -
High CYA level and should I use chlorine floater
- Thread starter YoYoBear
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,521
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You may want to consider following Seasonal Pools
You will not need the tablets if you follow the above. You will need a basic drop test kit. No strips.
The Seasonal pools method assumes if the pool chemistry gets away from you, like now, you will drain, clean, refill, and start over.
You will not need the tablets if you follow the above. You will need a basic drop test kit. No strips.
The Seasonal pools method assumes if the pool chemistry gets away from you, like now, you will drain, clean, refill, and start over.
if you look at the science behind CYA, its a buffer for chlorine from sunlight. Once the CYA gets too high you need to keep the chlorine high as you get chlorine lock. If your CYA is over 100 you should drain pool and refill to get it back to 50-60. You can get by with running your chlorine high. I had no idea of this until i got hear and fought algae for 10+ years all because my CYA was 300 + and didn't have right free chlorine so i fought algae blooms for years and bought all the leslie Crud to fix it when all it was, was super high CYA. I drained my pool 3 years almost 1/3, kept CYA at 50 and have not had a algae issue in 3 years.
Also ALL puck have CYA in them so as you add chlorine via the pucks the CYA goes up(never goes down unless you replace water via evap and refill or pump out and refill). There is no magic bullet to reduce CYA you have to replaces water to get it to 50-60 range and go to using bleach(which has no CYA) then you can add CYA using stabilizer. Puck and most shock is loaded with CYA its a little secrect pool stores dont tell you, then you get chlorine lock, a green pool, you buy $100+ in algecides etc only to have it over and over.
at the 50 range of CYA, you need to keep you FC at 6-8 ppm, at 100 its 11-13, mine was 300 and i was running my FC at 3-5 as that was what should be "normal". I had no idea CYA via puck and shock was so detrimental to proper pool sanitation until i found this forum. Without a doubt this is the biggest thing that kicks peoples butt when trying to keep a clear pool, super high CYA requires super high FC or you will fight cloudiness and algae blooms. Best bet is a drain and refill to get it in the 50-60 range.
Also ALL puck have CYA in them so as you add chlorine via the pucks the CYA goes up(never goes down unless you replace water via evap and refill or pump out and refill). There is no magic bullet to reduce CYA you have to replaces water to get it to 50-60 range and go to using bleach(which has no CYA) then you can add CYA using stabilizer. Puck and most shock is loaded with CYA its a little secrect pool stores dont tell you, then you get chlorine lock, a green pool, you buy $100+ in algecides etc only to have it over and over.
at the 50 range of CYA, you need to keep you FC at 6-8 ppm, at 100 its 11-13, mine was 300 and i was running my FC at 3-5 as that was what should be "normal". I had no idea CYA via puck and shock was so detrimental to proper pool sanitation until i found this forum. Without a doubt this is the biggest thing that kicks peoples butt when trying to keep a clear pool, super high CYA requires super high FC or you will fight cloudiness and algae blooms. Best bet is a drain and refill to get it in the 50-60 range.