High CYA & Calcium Hardness

Sep 9, 2018
71
Houston, TX
Hello, We moved to a house with a pool about 10 months ago. We've made every mistake in the book, made Leslie's and Amazon very happy with excess chemical purchases and been given wildly different advice by 3 different pool companies as to how to solve our problems. We live in Houston, TX, so very hot temps. Our 24,000 gallon pool was installed in 1961, and every tech that comes out here laughs at our setup and takes pictures of to text to their friends.

We've had persistent algae issues from April 'til present. First green, now yellow. I am brushing this BIG pool nearly every day, and the algae just keeps coming back. I found this site last week order my T-100 kit, which arrived yesterday. I have learned a lot by reading, and today I tested everything.

Total chlorine 4.5, PH 7.5. These readings line up with my readings on former kits.

TA is 110-120. (The test turns purple-red at 110, fully red at 120) My old $16.99 Amazon kit always gave a reading of 90. I'm assuming the T-100 is more accurate.

My CH is high, with the test liquid turning purple at 450, purple-blue at 475, and fully blue at 500.

1) Should I be taking the reading at FULLY red on the CH and fully blue on the TA or when the first major color change occurs?

My CYA levels can't be measured. That dot disappears well before I hit the 100 mark on the test tube.

2) It is my understanding the high CH and CYA both require partial drain & fill to fix. I *think* I get it that the high CYA levels are at the root of our algae issues, preventing the chlorine from doing it's job well. One of the pool companies we had out here said we needed to do a full drain & acid wash on the algae, another said just a 1/4 drain & fill because our CYA levels were over 200 (which mathematically doesn't make sense and wouldn't lower the levels enough), another said we needed a new pump and that nothing we did would matter because our circulation is too poor. I am inclined to go with a partial drain and fill and just keep measuring 'til we get to where we need to be. Does this sound like the best move?

3) If yes, do we have to hire a company to come out and pump water from the pool, or can we drain and fill it ourselves?

I have more questions, but that should be enough to get started for now! In case it matters, we have a DE quad cartridge filter system. I'm happy to answer questions about our setup and take pics if they would be helpful. Looking forward to hearing from you!

Gratefully,
Cara
 
Welcome to the forum! :handshake: Great job on getting a quality test kit!

I would suggest you follow Step 8 in Pool School - CYA. That will tell you if you need a partial or nearly full drain. The CH is not that much of an issue. It is quite manageable at the levels you have.

Your tests are complete when the color no longer changes.

Draining in Houston can be problematic. Ground water could make your pool shell 'float' out of the ground if water is removed. Let us know what you know about your water table. Type of pool shell matters also. You can easily do the drain/refill your self.

I suggest you read Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Trouble Free Pool School book.

You may also want to get the Pool Math app.

Please add a signature. Read Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post
Information in your signature will show up each time you post and it makes advice more accurate as we know what equipment we are dealing with.
 
Thank you for the signature!

So, an above ground gunite pool? Fully above ground?
 
OK -- that is more normal!

Do the dilute CYA test and report back.

Do you know were your sewer clean out is? Does your municipality restrict were you can drain water to? Do you have a sub pump?
 
Do the dilute CYA test and report back.

Do you know were your sewer clean out is? Does your municipality restrict were you can drain water to? Do you have a sub pump?[/QUOTE]

Thanks! I've read the ABCs and downloaded the Kindle book which I'll get to reading shortly. I'm afraid I don't know anything about the water table. A quick internet search led me to answers like, "between 10 and 30 in Houston depending on your exact soil." Do you happen to know a good place to look for more specific information?

1) I did the dilute CYA and came up with 110.
2) Sewer clean-out, Municipality drainage restrictions- I don't know, but I'm trying to find out. I don't know if we have a sub pump, but if it would be a second pump somewhere near the pool pump then I don't think so.
3) Is there a specifically good or bad time of year to drain & fill? Is there a safe(r) method?
4) I have a nearly full 100 pound bucket of 73% Cal-Hypo shock. Are my CH levels safe enough to keep using it for the time being? I'd really hate to waste such a huge, expensive shock investment, but obviously I don't want to cause myself new, expensive problems if the calcium keeps climbing!
5) I assume I should take the floating tablet dispenser out of my pool, since the tablets are adding CYA, right?

Thanks again!
Cara
 
No Cal Hypo or pucks right now. Use liquid chlorine / bleach from now on.

With a CYA of 110 a 50% drain / refill is needed for your to attack your algae issues with a SLAM Process.

A sub pump is a small, portable pump that you place in the pool to pump water out. You most likely do not have one.

Do you live near a bayou, creek, etc? Does your area flood when it rains?
 
Thanks. I'll get some liquid chlorine. It's hurricane season, so we're getting rain almost daily at present, though it's not particularly heavy. This house did NOT flood during Hurricane Harvey last year when we got about 50 inches over 4 days, though many nearby homes closer to the bayou, which is .3 miles away, flooded badly. No, we don't have a sub pump. Will we need to rent/borrow one to do the drain?
 
You will need a sub pump. You can buy a 1/3 hp one at Harbor Freight or Home Depot. Should be less than $100.

The water table is a big deal as when you drain, you do not want your pool shell to float out of the ground. I have an exchange method.

You can exchange some water without draining.

If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end (through a skimmer or into a bucket on a step so you lessen the water disturbance) you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.

The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.

Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same. Also be sure your pool pump is disabled during this process. Once started do not stop until you have exchanged the amount of water you wish.
 

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Thank you for the great info! Does this look like an adequate pump? There is also a 1/2 HP version we could manage, but if 1/3 is all we need we'll stick with that.
Goofy question, but we have a little 5/8" hose. I'm assuming I need a normal-sized one to make the exchange more even? Last, any benefit to doing this now while it's raining, later when it's not, during cooler or warmer days?
 
You will have a hose from the pump to where ever you are draining to (I use our sewer cleanout). Then another hose from a spigot to the pool. The pump you show will pump about 7 gpm through a 50', 3/4" hose. So this process is very slow. Realize that. Your pool will take ~30 hours to exchange half its volume.

The exchange can be done in any weather.
 
Had some delays, but I'm planning start this process Friday morning! I would like to know how to calculate flow rate from the pump through a 3/4" garden hose. You said, "7 gpm through a 50', 3/4" hose" for the first pump I linked. I ended up buying a slightly different model. It's about 65 feet from my deep end to the sewer cleanout, and 25 feet from the spigot to the shallow end. I want to purchase the best hose sizes to keep the exchange as even as possible.
 
Place the pump in the pool were it will be with the hose attached. Start the pump and fill a 5 gallon bucket from the hose timing how long it takes to fill the bucket. Then work out the GPM based on that data.
 
About 7 hours left on the exchange. It is working splendidly! I can't wait to finally have a beautiful, swimmable pool! Once the exchange is complete what's the order of importance w/ regard to balancing chemicals prior to starting a SLAM? Ph, TA, then chlorine? And how much time should I allow between each adjustment? Thank you heaps! Cara
 
Once complete run the pool pump for a couple hours and run a full set of test results. Add CYA if needed, raise your FC to target level, and adjust pH to in the 7's. Then test FC and pH each day and add chlorine and/or acid as necessary.
 

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