High current draw - Hayward Super Pump

[donleo]

16 ga is way too small - at least 14 but more like 12, depending on what breaker size you have and 220V vs 110V

you should have a yellow [12awg extension cord] not an orange [14 ga] as a temp solution

Roger that. Will get that in place right away. This all makes sense. At 115 v the current draw will most likely come below the rated level - confirms that there is an issue in the wiring of my 220 circuit. I just have to isolate and fix that.

Thanks to everyone - you have all been very helpful.

 

[JamesW]

When you replaced the motor, did you get the same total hp?

Total hp is the rated hp x the service factor.

What model is the pump and what is the total hp of the new motor?

Do you know what the part number on the impeller is?

 

[donleo]

When i replaced the motor initially last year, I replaced it with the same total hp as the old motor that stopped working. I do not know what the pump model or impeller part number is. They are the same as when I bought the house - have not been changed.

This morning, I swapped out my 110V extension cord with a 12 ga HD cord. Now I have 115V at the motor - good. However, the current draw of 15.1 amps surprised me. I expected that to go down.

 

[JamesW]

That's a lot of current.

The motor might be overloaded. We need the total hp and impeller part number.

Here is a video showing how to take the pump apart and put it back together.

Once you remove the diffuser, you should be able to see a part number stamped on the impeller.

Is there a pump model number label on the pump housing?

I suspect that the impeller is too big for the motor.

If the total hp (hp x sf) is 1.0, the correct impeller is SPX2607C. I suspect that the actual impeller is SPX2610C.

Also, check to see if the motor is turning freely.

 

[donleo]

That's a lot of current.

The motor might be overloaded. We need the total hp and impeller part number.

Here is a video showing how to take the pump apart and put it back together.

Once you remove the diffuser, you should be able to see a part number stamped on the impeller.

Is there a pump model number label on the pump housing?

I suspect that the impeller is too big for the motor.

If the total hp (hp x sf) is 1.0, the correct impeller is SPX2607C. I suspect that the actual impeller is SPX2610C.

Also, check to see if the motor is turning freely.

Thanks much! The total hp is 1.1. Hp is 1.1 and sf is 1.0. It may be a while till I can take it apart to get the impeller PN but I’ll do that for sure.

 

[JamesW]

If you turn off the power at the breaker and all switches, you can remove the pump basket and reach into the hole behind the basket to feel the impeller to see if it feels clogged or restricted.

Make 100% sure that power is off because you don't want the motor to start when you're touching the impeller.

Don't rely on a timer or automation to turn off power because they can turn on power unexpectedly.

If the impeller turns easily, the problem is almost definitely the wrong impeller.

To check the impeller part number, just remove the 4 bolts, pull back the motor assembly, remove the diffuser and look at the impeller for the part number.

If it's SPX2610C, you should replace it with a SPX2607C.

Also, replace the seal with a PS-3868 seal. Don't get a regular cheap seal because it will leak and ruin the motor.

Get a SPX1600R diffuser gasket and a SPX1600T housing gasket.

Don't get a seal kit unless it says ozone/salt compatible because the regular seal kit comes with a cheap seal.

You can even step down to a SPX2605C impeller if you don't need a lot of flow. It will save you in electrical costs.

 

[donleo]

If you turn off the power at the breaker and all switches, you can remove the pump basket and reach into the hole behind the basket to feel the impeller to see if it feels clogged or restricted.

Make 100% sure that power is off because you don't want the motor to start when you're touching the impeller.

Don't rely on a timer or automation to turn off power because they can turn on power unexpectedly.

If the impeller turns easily, the problem is almost definitely the wrong impeller.

To check the impeller part number, just remove the 4 bolts, pull back the motor assembly, remove the diffuser and look at the impeller for the part number.

If it's SPX2610C, you should replace it with a SPX2607C.

Also, replace the seal with a PS-3868 seal. Don't get a regular cheap seal because it will leak and ruin the motor.

Get a SPX1600R diffuser gasket and a SPX1600T housing gasket.

Don't get a seal kit unless it says ozone/salt compatible because the regular seal kit comes with a cheap seal.

You can even step down to a SPX2605C impeller if you don't need a lot of flow. It will save you in electrical costs.

I did have the 2610 impeller. I swapped it out with the 2607. Result was that it would not prime , even with the reservoir nearly full at startup. I had no suction at the far slimmer basket. So it would not create enough flow. Additionally it only dropped the amperage on the motor to 14.5 amps.

I’m beginning to think the whole setup is undersized. I probably need a larger motor for the 2610 impeller. The confusing part is that the whole system has worked for the last 5 years. I would not have ever noticed the high current draw if I hadn’t been trying to diagnose the breaker problem.

 

[JamesW]

Dropping down to a 2607C impeller should have dropped the amps well below the motor label amps.

The 2607C impeller should give plenty of flow. So, there's some other issue.

When everything is put together, does the impeller spin freely?

What is the breaker size that was tripping?

Do you have a picture of the wiring of the pump? There's a connector that comes with a white arrow to point to 115 or 230 volts that sometimes is printed in the wrong place.

 

[donleo]

Dropping down to a 2607C impeller should have dropped the amps well below the motor label amps.

The 2607C impeller should give plenty of flow. So, there's some other issue.

When everything is put together, does the impeller spin freely?

What is the breaker size that was tripping?

Do you have a picture of the wiring of the pump? There's a connector that comes with a white arrow to point to 115 or 230 volts that sometimes is printed in the wrong place.

Yes, when everything is put together the impeller spins freely.

The breaker that was tripping is a 20A GFCI breaker. That is on the 220 circuit. I am now running the pump on a 110 circuit, a GFCI outlet. That circuit has never tripped. Therefore I have concluded that I have a problem in the wiring on the 220 circuit, likely underground. Will be testing for that next week. In the meantime, I’m running on the extension cord(12 ga yellow) to keep water filtered and chlorinated. It’s still cold here - water temp 64° so not a lot of chlorine demand, I don’t have to run long time each day.

I don’t have a picture of the motor, but the circuit board is clearly marked for the 115 and 230 v setting for the plug and I was careful to make sure it is in the correct location.

 

[JamesW]

So, you have the 2607C impeller on and it's giving weak flow and still pulling 14.5 amps?

The 2607C impeller is correct for a 1.0 to 1.1 total hp motor.

If the impeller is not binding, the amperage should be below the label amperage.

Is the voltage selector a jumper plug with two wires and a white arrow?

If yes, the arrow is sometimes printed in the wrong place and going by the arrow is incorrect.

When you replaced the seal, did you make sure that all old pieces of the seal came out?

Both parts of the seal have a black rubber part that can get left behind and it's easy to miss because it blends in.

 

[mas985]

Per Energy Star test data, the SuperPump SP2607X10 draws about 1300 watts (curve-c) while the SuperPump SP2610X15 draws about 1500 watts (curve-c). So technically, the SP2610 impeller should be drawing no more than about 13 amps @ 115v which is within the amp rating of the current motor and probably why it was working all this time. SuperPump motors tend to be significantly overrated (amps) for their respective impellers for some reason.

When you had the motor apart, did you test the amp draw without any load?

Have you looked inside the housing/diffuser to see if there is any interference markings?

 

[donleo]

So, you have the 2607C impeller on and it's giving weak flow and still pulling 14.5 amps?

The 2607C impeller is correct for a 1.0 to 1.1 total hp motor.

If the impeller is not binding, the amperage should be below the label amperage.

Is the voltage selector a jumper plug with two wires and a white arrow?

If yes, the arrow is sometimes printed in the wrong place and going by the arrow is incorrect.

When you replaced the seal, did you make sure that all old pieces of the seal came out?

Both parts of the seal have a black rubber part that can get left behind and it's easy to miss because it blends in.

Thats correct - when I had the 2607 impeller on, the motor was pulling about 14.5 amps. I did not let it run very long since it wasn't pulling enough water to fill the reservoir.

I have actually put the 2610 impeller back on because the 2607 would not draw enough water to prime the pump. Huge air bubble and turbulence in the top of the reservoir.

The jumper plug on this motor has a plastic nub that fits into a slot in the circuit board so it is not possible to connect it incorrectly.

i was careful with the seal. It came out fine, in one piece.

is it possible that there is some kind of restriction in the plumbing from the skimmers to the pump causing the motor to work too hard? I can't imagine what that would be, and when the pump/motor are running they are quiet and the reservoir stays full with no air.

 

[cfherrman]

Less flow = less pressure = less amps

 

[JamesW]

https://www.troublefreepool.com/attachments/img_6647-jpg.88852/

Does it look like what's in this picture?

Something is wrong if it wouldn't work with the 2607C impeller and it still pulled 14.5 amps.

It's either binding or it's wired incorrectly or the motor is bad.

The arrow should line up with the bottom wire.

When set for 230 volts, the bottom wire lines up with the 230 volt line and the top wire does not connect to anything.

When set to 115 volts, the plug moves down so that the bottom wire lines up with the 115 volt line.