Nope. MA is safe for all finishes when added with reasonable care.
You're still trying too hard.
take 2 or 3 swipes across that general area and call it a day.
Hi from Texas
- Thread starter Maldravus
- Start date
take 2 or 3 swipes across that general area and call it a day.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,880
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Thanks. I know it might be overthinking but I hate performing MA treatments the most. I cannot keep my PH down so I seem to have to dose at least once a week (and that's stretching it out, I could honestly probably do it daily). I have heard and read about MA compromising fiberglass because it is heavier than water. The pool stores and builders have said to use dry but I am using MA so I get extremely paranoid.Nope. MA is safe for all finishes when added with reasonable care.
You're still trying too hard.
Have you decided on which SWCG? Where are you purchasing teh SWCG? That will somewhat determine what type of contractor.
Not just yet. I am still researching. Someone recommended one on here though I don't have the make/model handy.
My pool store / PB had me adding copper based algecide every couple of months, only to snarkily ask me what i was doing to make my copper so high when it wasn't in our fill water.
We could fill an Encyclopedia full of stupid stuff that members have been told.
Since you do not have automation, it would be best to go with CircuPool model RJ30+. It has good warranty and has been very reliable based on many members that use the RJ+ series.
Just curious; what is meant when people say “automation” here? I’ve seen it used many times. Also thanks I believe that was the recommendation earlier. As I said I still need to do more research but definitely don’t think I’m comfortable DIYing this.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,880
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I would like to provide a follow-up re: MA versus dry acid for fiberglass pools. I requested a copy of the manufacturers handbook. It can be found here - https://leisurepoolsusa.com/warranty/LP-Product-Handbook-5-2023.pdf. They're pretty specific about using hydrochloric acid and nothing else. This helped put me at ease a bit. See the below snippet from page 11;
Acid is used to lower pH. An example is hydrochloric acid. This will effectively lower the pH and total alkalinity. If using hydrochloric acid to lower pH, it is vital that it be diluted (one part of acid to ten parts of water) prior to adding to the pool. Note that the filter should be running when you add the diluted hydrochloric acid and for at least one hour afterwards to ensure adequate mixing. No other types of acid should ever be used for pH or total alkalinity adjustment.
Acid is used to lower pH. An example is hydrochloric acid. This will effectively lower the pH and total alkalinity. If using hydrochloric acid to lower pH, it is vital that it be diluted (one part of acid to ten parts of water) prior to adding to the pool. Note that the filter should be running when you add the diluted hydrochloric acid and for at least one hour afterwards to ensure adequate mixing. No other types of acid should ever be used for pH or total alkalinity adjustment.
I would like to understand more about CH. As per page 12 of my pool shell handbook;
Calcium levels must be maintained between 80 and 120 parts per million and the terms of the Warranty require you to maintain this level.
This seems pretty cut and dry to me. TFP recommends 250-650. Is there a reason for this discrepancy? I assume I need to be following my manufacturers instructions which means I need to bring this down from 200 to 120ppm?
Calcium levels must be maintained between 80 and 120 parts per million and the terms of the Warranty require you to maintain this level.
This seems pretty cut and dry to me. TFP recommends 250-650. Is there a reason for this discrepancy? I assume I need to be following my manufacturers instructions which means I need to bring this down from 200 to 120ppm?
Also, please let me know if I should create a new post for this somewhere else.
Are you sure you copied/read this right ? 80 to 120 is their TA recommendation 'with 100 being ideal'. (And its boiler plate industry advice that assumes heavy puck use)
For calcium, google says they recommend 200 to 400, which is also boiler plate industry advise. There's no harm in following this one, besides a few bucks for calcium occasionally.
That's the plaster pool recommendation, or fiberglass with waterline tile / grout. It's only that wide of a target because conditions vary so much regionally.
This is your 'teach me TFP' thread and anything remotely close to that fits here.
If you want new lounge chairs or something entirely sideways, then by all means make a new thread in an appropriate sub forum. But chemistry, equipment or general operations of things fit here.
Then again, even if you were to talk lounge chairs here, you can't really ever hijack your own thread.
Yes, I am certain. The pdf is publicly available at that URL. Information regarding Calcium and CH seems to be all on page 12.Are you sure you copied/read this right ? 80 to 120 is their TA recommendation 'with 100 being ideal'. (And its boiler plate industry advice that assumes heavy puck use)
For calcium, google says they recommend 200 to 400, which is also boiler plate industry advise. There's no harm in following this one, besides a few bucks for calcium occasionally.
That's the plaster pool recommendation, or fiberglass with waterline tile / grout. It's only that wide of a target because conditions vary so much regionally.
This is your 'teach me TFP' thread and anything remotely close to that fits here.
If you want new lounge chairs or something entirely sideways, then by all means make a new thread in an appropriate sub forum. But chemistry, equipment or general operations of things fit here.
Then again, even if you were to talk lounge chairs here, you can't really ever hijack your own thread.
Dang its on their website too.
Also on their website, articles about the benefits of SWGs, which require 3500 ppm salt which fails the TDS rec of 1500 above.
The CH rec is darn near impossible for a big chunk of the country.
Also on their website, articles about the benefits of SWGs, which require 3500 ppm salt which fails the TDS rec of 1500 above.
The CH rec is darn near impossible for a big chunk of the country.
I am sort of having a panic attack. I called their warranty number to confirm the accuracy but it routed me to a voicemail. I left a message and will see. I suppose I should lower the CH? Or wait to hear back? This is very strange to me.
Take a breath. It's hogwash.
They'll repeat what's written and it'll be standard issue 1st level help. For fun, tell them you got a gas heater which needs 200 CH. See what they say about that.
Unrelated; anyone have recommendations for a sump pump? It appears I will need one eventually to remove any water accumulating at the bottom of our 6" standpipe.
I hope so but if they're putting out incorrect information on the spec sheet, that is very disturbing. I have contacted our PB to see if they've worked with this warranty department before and to see if they have any insight to share.
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I wouldn't worry about what you can't do anything about. Run the best CH you can and it won't be an issue as long as nothing fails on the gelcoat.