Hi from Texas

[dereksanders]

So I’ll need to buy many more bottles of r-0013??

The big expense has already been made. The relative nominal expense of the kit and reagents will save you untold hundreds of dollars annually.

 

[Maldravus]

Once a month is also fine…

I also just retested fc twice using 10ml. I think I screwed the first one up and got 2.5 then the next test was 3. It was 5 and 6 drops but pretty positive 6 was correct. I’m wondering why it’s different.

 

[PoolStored]

Water Testing Errors - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Newdude]

So I’ll need to buy many more bottles of r-0013??

After you get over the learning curve, you'll find CYA to be very stable and the normal supply lasts the season. We got you as you learn.

Going forward, the refills go on sale each spring at tftestkits for mid $40s. (Now that you have the vials, cya tube and Ph block)

 

[Maldravus]

I just input my test results into Pool Math. I added a puck since my cya is at 50 (Leslie’s test surprisingly confirmed my own results). I also added dry acid. I have done many dry acid treatments and my ph is always high. The Pool Math app confuses me a bit. The instructions that came with the test kit list an ideal range chart (for example 2-4ppm of fc) but the app wants me to up that to 6. I understand there’s an fc / cya relationship but even with that into account the books recommended max is still only 5ppm.

 

[PoolStored]

I also added dry acid.

We don't recommend dry acid. It adds sulfates. When sulfates get high, it can corrode metal and concrete. Please use muriatic acid.

The instructions that came with the test kit list an ideal range chart (for example 2-4ppm of fc) but the app wants me to up that to 6. I understand there’s an fc / cya relationship but even with that into account the books recommended max is still only 5ppm.

Ignore the book. Always follow this (see link) and keep your FC in range for your CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels

If you want to geek out on the why...

Pool Water Chemistry

This thread presents my findings so far on pool water chemistry including the following: More Accurate Calcite Saturation Index (CSI) to replace Langelier Saturation Index (LSI) Calculation of ppm HOCl (disinfecting chlorine) at various levels of Total Free Chlorine (FC) and Cyanuric Acid (CYA)...

www.troublefreepool.com

and

CYA Chlorine Relationship - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Maldravus]

We don't recommend dry acid. It adds sulfates. When sulfates get high, it can corrode metal and concrete. Please use muriatic acid.


Ignore the book. Always follow this (see link) and keep your FC in range for your CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels

If you want to geek out on the why...

Pool Water Chemistry

This thread presents my findings so far on pool water chemistry including the following: More Accurate Calcite Saturation Index (CSI) to replace Langelier Saturation Index (LSI) Calculation of ppm HOCl (disinfecting chlorine) at various levels of Total Free Chlorine (FC) and Cyanuric Acid (CYA)...

www.troublefreepool.com

and

CYA Chlorine Relationship - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Yeah I read through those. I guess my biggest question is this method claims to have the goal of saving money by using less chemicals. However if I go off the Pool Math app and maintain 6 ppm fc with my current 50 cya, that’s triple the amount of fc I’d use if I followed the books (assuming 2ppm to stay midway between 1-4ppm). Is the idea that the cost savings comes in the form of not having to buy algaecide down the road?

 

[Newdude]

And not clearing multiple swamps a season from under chlorinating.

I fought hard against a pool because everyone I knew lost their pool for 2 weeks, twice per season. They'd complain they were out $150 this time and $250 that time. The headache was not worth it with 2.5 .o th seasons up here.

If it was hot they went green. If it rained hard they got cloudy. They all complained so often I was afraid of both.

Some of them had their pools for decades. They HAD to know what they were doing. They HAD TO.

 

[Newdude]

If i followed the books (assuming 2ppm to stay midway between 1-4ppm)

The sun burns off up to 5ppm a day for you in TX.

How will you maintain a 2 with one daily dose, when you lose up to 5 ? Email the book people and ask them. I'd LOVE to make them think that through.

 

[Maldravus]

The sun burns off up to 5ppm a day for you in TX.

How will you maintain a 2 with one daily dose, when you lose up to 5 ? Email the book people and ask them. I'd LOVE to make them think that through.

This confuses me. I have tested at Leslie’s every 7 days for 1.5 months and have never been below a 1ppm. Granted I’ve used pucks because I’m just learning about fc / cya relationship but if I was losing 5ppm per day would I not constantly just be at

The sun burns off up to 5ppm a day for you in TX.

How will you maintain a 2 with one daily dose, when you lose up to 5 ? Email the book people and ask them. I'd LOVE to make them think that through.

Well because you’d be using the trichlor pucks in an auto chlorinator. This is what I’ve been doing up until I just discovered this community and am in the process of changing. But you can easily dial up the amount of chlorine that gets distributed into your pool.

 

[PoolStored]

Maintain 6 is not add 6.
You can use 3-5FC per day in Texas.
My maintaining a higher CYA, it reduces the daily consumption of chlorine.

FC for FC, pucks are the most expensive, liquid chlorine next, then SWG.

• 50 lbs. of pucks are 200$ and add 500FC to your pool, and 300 ppm of CYA. You would have to get the 240 excess out. That's 4 complete drains to lower CYA back to range 60 at the end of the cycle (water and time expense). Likely a couple hundred in water expense. So total around $400-$500 over the 50 lbs.
• 55 gallons of LC at WM are 6$/gal, and create 500FC, so $330.
• You can get a SWG for about $800 for your pool. Let's say it lasts 4 years, that is $200 per year.o Put another way, it will make 10FC in 24 hour. 500FC in 50, 24 hours = 1200hours. Cell is rated for 15K hours or 12.5 sets of 500FC. So 500FC = $800 / 12.5 = $64.

In Texas, in the long run, I'd get a SWG.

 

[Newdude]

have tested at Leslie’s every 7 days for 1.5 months and have never been below a 1ppm. Granted I’ve used pucks because I’m just learning about fc / cya relationship but if I was losing 5ppm per day would I not constantly just be at

Its still early in the season. You'll be blowing through chlorine from any form once it's TX hot out.

 

[PoolStored]

This confuses me. I have tested at Leslie’s every 7 days for 1.5 months and have never been below a 1ppm. Granted I’ve used pucks because I’m just learning about fc / cya relationship but if I was losing 5ppm per day would I not constantly just be at

We are in Winter, UV is low. During summer, when sun is higher in the sky, your consumption will rise.

 

[JJ_Tex]

Yeah I read through those. I guess my biggest question is this method claims to have the goal of saving money by using less chemicals. However if I go off the Pool Math app and maintain 6 ppm fc with my current 50 cya, that’s triple the amount of fc I’d use if I followed the books (assuming 2ppm to stay midway between 1-4ppm). Is the idea that the cost savings comes in the form of not having to buy algaecide down the road?

Honestly, the biggest cost savings is educating you on what your pool needs (and doesn't need) and keeping you out of Leslies. Once you get your test kit and everything initially balanced, your regular chemicals will be liquid chlorine (walmart and Pinch a penny are the best prices in our area) and the occasional jug of muriatic acid from Lowes or Home Depot.

On the other hand Leslies goal is to keep you in the dark and blindly taking their recommendations. Surely by now they have recommended lots of stuff to you that you don't need. Heck, you cant get within 50 yards of a Leslie's without them telling you that your Phosphates are high and you need their No Phos or some other snake oil. Then if you have a real problem, they see $ signs and hit you with several hundred worth of stuff.

This is one of my favorite threads on the topic:

I knew I was Pool Stored when...

With the influx of springtime new members rolling in, oddly, I found myself astounded at the number of members that have been Pool Stored. I don't know why it struck me this year, after helping so many that have been pool stored in the past, and even having the username PoolStored, but...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[pjt]

I’ve bought the $80 kit, chlorinating liquid from Walmart, and now need to buy the app it seems.

A quality kit is the best money you'll spend on your pool by a gigantic margin. LC is a consumable. The app is free to use, but costs a few dollars per year if you want a few more features. The free version works perfectly fine (I use it).

How often am I testing cya?

I test every month during the summer, and every other month during the off season. Err on the side of testing frequently until you have more experience.

Then how do I know how much and how frequently to add lc?

FC demand in the summer is high. I typically add 4-5 FC every day from June - August. You'll have to add enough LC every day to add the proper amount of FC to your pool. PoolMath --> "Effects of Adding" --> "Liquid Chlorine". With pool volume and % strength of LC (typically 10%), PM will calculate the FC rise for a given amount of LC added. You can also tap "Free Chlorine" from the overview page and fill in the blanks. Err on the high side of FC until you get more experience with your pool. Keep FC at or above target FC at all times. Don't let the FC get near the minimum. FC targets are in the FC/CYA chart.

If you want the ultimate in convenience and cost savings, get a SWCG. I add MA about once a week, and add salt and CYA once or twice a year. That's it.

FC demand in the winter is almost nothing.

I also just retested fc twice using 10ml. I think I screwed the first one up and got 2.5 then the next test was 3. It was 5 and 6 drops but pretty positive 6 was correct. I’m wondering why it’s different.

Do you have a SpeedStir?

this method claims to have the goal of saving money by using less chemicals.

You will save massive amounts of money, time, and effort with TFP methods. Additionally, you will achieve superior outcomes.

This confuses me. I have tested at Leslie’s every 7 days for 1.5 months and have never been below a 1ppm.

Stop getting your water tested at the store. FC demand in the winter is almost nothing. It's starting to ramp up with Spring weather.

 

[HermanTX]

This confuses me. I have tested at Leslie’s every 7 days for 1.5 months and have never been below a 1ppm. Granted I’ve used pucks because I’m just learning about fc / cya relationship but if I was losing 5ppm per day would I not constantly just be at

The switch to TFP methodology can be overwhelming to a new pool owner especially when pool store has been doing your testing.
Here are some tips I found and since living in TX the summers can be brutal

1) Never assume a test from pool store is correct and your own test result is wrong - you may have some small testing errors early on as you learn but more often then not your test results are more consistent than a pool store’s result. Any match to a pool store test results will be a random event. Reason - different reps at pool store test differently, some reps are summer help and very inexperienced, contamination between your water sample and the previous person’s water sample can occur, no guarantee that pool store device is calibrated(if they have a machine that does testing)

2) Initially test FC, CC, pH and TA every day. Although TA does not move that much, TA is related to pH so I test both. Once your CH and CYA targets are reached, they do not move much so testing every 2-4 weeks is sufficient. However, if your source water has very high CH, as many do in Austin area unless you have a water softener you may need to test CH more often, especially in the summer when there is evaporation and adding water to top off. Evaporation does not remove CH or CYA, that stays in the pool water, which is why both CH and CYA can creep up in the summer as more water (with high CH) is added and if owner is using pucks, more CYA is added as more pucks are used to keep FC up. This is why I would switch to LC now.

3) I would switch to using liquid chlorine (LC) now and not continue to using pucks. The pucks will not go bad - store them in a dry place in the container you purchased them in. You want to learn how LC works in your pool. LC raises FC more quickly than waiting for a puck to erode. Also once you learn more you will see that pucks can be used for specific needs, such as when you go on a week long vacation or when in the winter months when FC demand is low, the pucks make it easier. Also, there are several Pinch A Penny pool stores in Austin. They sell a 2.5 gal jug of LC and they have a deal where your 10th jug is free. Also, Walmart and Home Deport are good choices if you wish to purchase gallon size jugs. LC can be stored in your garage in a cool dry place. Store puck container in a storage shed outside - not in a garage.

4) I normally buy Muriatic Acid (MA) from a pool store - I know they have it in stock and not leaking on a shelf such as I have seen in Walmart. Keep MA in a different storage shed outside, not with the chlorine pucks. I have purchase those hard plastic Rubber Maid sheds that open from the top to store MA. MA fumes can be corrosive so definitely do not store in garage.

5) Once your FC is at the proper level, it is about maintaining that level. Your pool will have the same daily decline in FC whether you use LC or pucks. LC makes it easy to maintain that target level. The goal is to prevent algae from ever occurring. Many of us now using TFP have not had algae since converting to TFP methodology. That is significant!!!! Always having a clear pool.

Sorry for the long post but thought it would help to hear from someone who has been in your position and living in the same general area.

 

[Maldravus]

The switch to TFP methodology can be overwhelming to a new pool owner especially when pool store has been doing your testing.
Here are some tips I found and since living in TX the summers can be brutal

1) Never assume a test from pool store is correct and your own test result is wrong - you may have some small testing errors early on as you learn but more often then not your test results are more consistent than a pool store’s result. Any match to a pool store test results will be a random event. Reason - different reps at pool store test differently, some reps are summer help and very inexperienced, contamination between your water sample and the previous person’s water sample can occur, no guarantee that pool store device is calibrated(if they have a machine that does testing)

2) Initially test FC, CC, pH and TA every day. Although TA does not move that much, TA is related to pH so I test both. Once your CH and CYA targets are reached, they do not move much so testing every 2-4 weeks is sufficient. However, if your source water has very high CH, as many do in Austin area unless you have a water softener you may need to test CH more often, especially in the summer when there is evaporation and adding water to top off. Evaporation does not remove CH or CYA, that stays in the pool water, which is why both CH and CYA can creep up in the summer as more water (with high CH) is added and if owner is using pucks, more CYA is added as more pucks are used to keep FC up. This is why I would switch to LC now.

3) I would switch to using liquid chlorine (LC) now and not continue to using pucks. The pucks will not go bad - store them in a dry place in the container you purchased them in. You want to learn how LC works in your pool. LC raises FC more quickly than waiting for a puck to erode. Also once you learn more you will see that pucks can be used for specific needs, such as when you go on a week long vacation or when in the winter months when FC demand is low, the pucks make it easier. Also, there are several Pinch A Penny pool stores in Austin. They sell a 2.5 gal jug of LC and they have a deal where your 10th jug is free. Also, Walmart and Home Deport are good choices if you wish to purchase gallon size jugs. LC can be stored in your garage in a cool dry place. Store puck container in a storage shed outside - not in a garage.

4) I normally buy Muriatic Acid (MA) from a pool store - I know they have it in stock and not leaking on a shelf such as I have seen in Walmart. Keep MA in a different storage shed outside, not with the chlorine pucks. I have purchase those hard plastic Rubber Maid sheds that open from the top to store MA. MA fumes can be corrosive so definitely do not store in garage.

5) Once your FC is at the proper level, it is about maintaining that level. Your pool will have the same daily decline in FC whether you use LC or pucks. LC makes it easy to maintain that target level. The goal is to prevent algae from ever occurring. Many of us now using TFP have not had algae since converting to TFP methodology. That is significant!!!! Always having a clear pool.

Sorry for the long post but thought it would help to hear from someone who has been in your position and living in the same general area.

I tested this morning. Here are my results; FC 5. PH 7.8. TA 100. CH 200. I did not retest CYA so presumably it’s still 50. I added the recommended quantity of LC but I do still have some pucks. I will let those go away and use LC moving forward. What are these pinch a penny stores you’re referring to?

 

[PoolStored]

Pinch a Penny​

Find Your Pool Supplies and Pool Experts at Pinch A Penny

The Perfect People For A Perfect Pool. Pinch A Penny provides high quality pool supplies and expert advice to make your life as a pool owner easier.

pinchapenny.com

In Austin...

Austin/Anderson Mill #268 ​

Address:11521 N FM 620
Suite 600
Austin, TX 78726
+1 512-502-5225

Lakeway/Bee Cave #295 ​

Storefront Opening Soon, Pool Service Available Now!Address:1510 Ranch Road 620 South
#600
Lakeway, TX 78734
+1 512-969-8343

 

[Maldravus]

Pinch a Penny​

Find Your Pool Supplies and Pool Experts at Pinch A Penny

The Perfect People For A Perfect Pool. Pinch A Penny provides high quality pool supplies and expert advice to make your life as a pool owner easier.

pinchapenny.com

In Austin...

Austin/Anderson Mill #268 ​

Address:11521 N FM 620
Suite 600
Austin, TX 78726
+1 512-502-5225

Lakeway/Bee Cave #295 ​

Storefront Opening Soon, Pool Service Available Now!Address:1510 Ranch Road 620 South
#600
Lakeway, TX 78734
+1 512-969-8343

Thank you! How much should I be concerned about CH? Since I am new to TFP, my only experience is from Leslie’s telling me “oh you have fiberglass so it doesn’t matter”

 

[PoolStored]

In a FG pool? Without a tile line, you can ignore CH.