Will 30 minutes to an hours of circulating be enough to get a good reading? Is this true for any chemical I add?
Hi from N Alabama
- Thread starter GearHead36
- Start date
Yes. The general guideline after adding a chemical is 30 minutes before testing or adding another needed chemical. This of course is dependent on how good your circulation is, but brushing the bottom and sides of the pool where you added the chemical (IN FRONT OF A RETURN IS BEST!) can help make sure it's well mixed.
Ok. I have more test results. The chlorine/bromine test (FC?) still shows virtually zero.
- pH: 8.2
- TA: 60
I added 2 gallons of bleach last night. The robot seems to be stuck, and as a result, one section of the pool floor is really clean. And the water looks pretty clear in that section. So I'm guessing that most of the poor appearance of the pool is due to dirt on the bottom.
- pH: 8.2
- TA: 60
I added 2 gallons of bleach last night. The robot seems to be stuck, and as a result, one section of the pool floor is really clean. And the water looks pretty clear in that section. So I'm guessing that most of the poor appearance of the pool is due to dirt on the bottom.
So what I see you saying is you did not test this morning or add any bleach? You need to test and add as often as possible to help clear your pool.
Do you have a manual vacuum? If you do you can "sneak" up on the dirt and filter it out. I would put a knee high or skimmer sock on your basket to help filter. Just keep an eye on it so it does not clog up too much.
Kim
Do you have a manual vacuum? If you do you can "sneak" up on the dirt and filter it out. I would put a knee high or skimmer sock on your basket to help filter. Just keep an eye on it so it does not clog up too much.
Kim
Last night, I tested, then applied 2 gallons of 8% bleach. Then tonight, I tested again, and this time, I added the TA test. Pool math indicates that I should add 24 oz of Muriatic acid. I added 12. I'm going to test again after about 1/2 hr. Then I plan to add 2 more gallons of bleach.
BTW, after getting a section of the floor clean, I (well, my wife) can tell that the color looks more brown. It may just be dirt & silt that's making it look bad.
BTW, after getting a section of the floor clean, I (well, my wife) can tell that the color looks more brown. It may just be dirt & silt that's making it look bad.
smforte
0
Welcome to a fellow Alabamian!! Not much more to add other than, the color of your water will probably change colors 10 times. Good idea to take a picture each day in the same spot to notice the transformation. Oh and we LOVE pictures.
Re-tested pH, and it was still 8.2. Need to add more muriatic acid. I added 2 more gallons of bleach, for a total of 4. My wife researched up on how the Polaris worked, and she got it working. We (mostly she) brushed the pool. Hopefully, much of that will end up in the filter. I'll test again tomorrow. Hopefully I'll get to do that tomorrow morning. We haven't moved in yet, but it's only about 3 miles away.
Making progress. The Polaris did wonders. Most of the brown appearance is gone, and I think that it was due to the dirt on the bottom. I've managed to get the chlorine up to 3, and pH down to about 7.8, so it's in the ballpark now. There still a green tinge to the water, and I can't see the bottom of the deep (8ft) end, so there's still work to do. AND... my TF-100 kit arrived. Yaaay! I arrived yesterday, but I was too tired to use it after working at the new house all day. I'll do the full battery of tests today.
Should I start a new thread with the full test results? If so, which sub forum does that belong in?
Should I start a new thread with the full test results? If so, which sub forum does that belong in?
You can keep it here or start a new one at Just Getting Started. It is up to you. Just make sure to link to the new thread if you star it.
Kim
Kim
Ok. The TF-100 test results are here!
FC: 0
CC: 0
TC: 0
pH: 7.5
TA: 90
CYA: <20
pH looks good, but all the chlorine disappeared in the past 24 hrs. Now what? Do I SLAM? The water has a green tint, but I wouldn't call it a green monster.
FC: 0
CC: 0
TC: 0
pH: 7.5
TA: 90
CYA: <20
pH looks good, but all the chlorine disappeared in the past 24 hrs. Now what? Do I SLAM? The water has a green tint, but I wouldn't call it a green monster.
I meant to ask... what happened to my chlorine? The FC was in the ballpark 24 hrs ago.
Do not worry about borate. That and TA are the least important for where you are now.
NOW your game plan. Your FC dropped because the green in your water ate it yummm yumm! LOL
Now you SLAM your pool. Here is a link to how to do it. Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
If you have a light in your pool pull it out and clean inside and all around. Take a brush to your steps. Scrub them good! Brush your pool so all of the yucky stuff can be put where the bleach can get it.
If you are working outside of the house try to at least 4 tests and adding of bleach. 1 as soon as you get up, 2 as soon as you get home, 3 at dinner time, 4 just before you go to bed.
If you can babysit your pool-test and add every hour or two.
The more your test and add the faster the SLAM will go.
Kim
NOW your game plan. Your FC dropped because the green in your water ate it yummm yumm! LOL
Now you SLAM your pool. Here is a link to how to do it. Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
If you have a light in your pool pull it out and clean inside and all around. Take a brush to your steps. Scrub them good! Brush your pool so all of the yucky stuff can be put where the bleach can get it.
If you are working outside of the house try to at least 4 tests and adding of bleach. 1 as soon as you get up, 2 as soon as you get home, 3 at dinner time, 4 just before you go to bed.
If you can babysit your pool-test and add every hour or two.
The more your test and add the faster the SLAM will go.
Kim
Thanks
Do I need to worry about getting my CYA level up first? Or should I go ahead with bleach now, AND work to get my CYA level up at the same time?
Do I need to worry about getting my CYA level up first? Or should I go ahead with bleach now, AND work to get my CYA level up at the same time?
Yes work with both. Put enough CYA in a sock (I use my husbands tube socks) and put it in front of the return. Some people put the sock in the skimmer but when you go to backwash you will lose most of it out of the filter.
Kim
Gearhead's wife here. I'm planning on going to the new house today to do some work and will babysit the pool during the SLAM. Like Gearhead, I am a complete noob when it comes to pool care and am learning along with him. Once we get the pool under control, I will be taking over the routine maintenance. I'm having trouble finding information on how to backwash our filter. I've watched a few YouTube videos, but they show a multiport valve on top of the filter housing; our filter housing has nothing like that. I saw a reference during a google search saying that this filter didn't need to be backwashed, but clicking the link didn't take me to any useful information. Does anyone have any information on this filter?
Thanks!
Terry
Thanks!
Terry
swoopman
0
I'm not familiar with that filter so someone else may jump in but in the meantime here's a link to the manual in case that helps:
https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/StarClearPlus.pdf
You may also want to post a pic of your equipment.
https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/StarClearPlus.pdf
You may also want to post a pic of your equipment.
Terry I did a google search on what you have listed as our filter -Haywood C-1200 filter. It is showing a cartilage filter. You will not be able to backwash it. Sand filter you backwash.
Is this what your filter looks like?
Hayward C1200 Star-Clear Plus Cartridge Pool Filter
If so this is what is inside the filter:
Hayward C1200 Comp. Pool and Spa Water Filter Only $62.49
Here is the manual for it
https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/StarClearPlus.pdf
I read where it says to clean it when it is dry. WELLLLLLLLL unless you have another cartilage laying around that will not be able to happen. When I had a filter like that I did not wait for it to dry.
When I cleaned mine I:
-closed all valves coming from the pool so no water comes out.
-opened the drain plug to let the water out (should be on the bottom)
-took cartridge out and sat it on something to keep it off the ground
-used my hose and shoot water all over, inside, all around until the pleats looked almost white again.
-put it back together
-closed drain plug on the bottom
-open drain plug on the top
-open valves to let water back to the filter
-when water comes out of the top drain plug shut it.
-Grab a beer and call it done!
If you and gearhead do not want to sign in and out of each others account don't worry about it. We have several that use one account and they sign their name so we know who we are talking to.
Kim
Is this what your filter looks like?
Hayward C1200 Star-Clear Plus Cartridge Pool Filter
If so this is what is inside the filter:
Hayward C1200 Comp. Pool and Spa Water Filter Only $62.49
Here is the manual for it
https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/StarClearPlus.pdf
I read where it says to clean it when it is dry. WELLLLLLLLL unless you have another cartilage laying around that will not be able to happen. When I had a filter like that I did not wait for it to dry.
When I cleaned mine I:
-closed all valves coming from the pool so no water comes out.
-opened the drain plug to let the water out (should be on the bottom)
-took cartridge out and sat it on something to keep it off the ground
-used my hose and shoot water all over, inside, all around until the pleats looked almost white again.
-put it back together
-closed drain plug on the bottom
-open drain plug on the top
-open valves to let water back to the filter
-when water comes out of the top drain plug shut it.
-Grab a beer and call it done!
If you and gearhead do not want to sign in and out of each others account don't worry about it. We have several that use one account and they sign their name so we know who we are talking to.
Kim