First, just wanted to say this forum is wonderful and I’ve learned a ton just using the search function. However I can’t seem to find anything quite like my pool set up.
I’m in the final stages of a pool remodel and I just pulled through new pool Amerilight pool and spa lights. I have one J-Box for the spa on one side of the house. One conduit in this J-Box is for the spa light, and the other gooes upstream to the pool light J-Box on the other side of the house (near sub panel). The other J-Box has the pool light coming in in one conduit, along with the downstream spa light in the other conduit. It then feeds upstream to the sub-panel. One leg (red marker) of the pool/spa light circuit goes to the 120v dumb switch. The other leg (magenta marker) comes back from the 120v dumb switch to the hot side of the GFCI. The load side (also magenta marker) of the GFCI is then connected to the other side of the pool/spa light circuit.
Ultimately I’d like to make the pool light switch smart. Having no neutral at the switch box presents a problem.
I’ve come up with a couple options:
1) Run new 12/3 with ground from panel to switch.
2) Use a Shelly 1L (possible no neutral but may have to use bypass).
3) Lutron Casetta dimmer (no neutral) at the switch.
4) Lutron Casetta switch at the sub panel (with neutral). Then add a wireless Pico remote.
All of these options preset challenges for me.
Option 1 is time consuming and costs money because of the small crawl space in the attic. I could attach new wire to the old wire and pull it out, but not sure if it’s stapled down. Also don’t want to damage the Romex in the ends of the conduit as it enters the soffit.
Option 2 with the Shelly 1L may work without the neutral bypass. I have questions about how to hook up the bypass at the panel. Is there anyone that currently uses the Shelly option? If the bypass is needed, how is it hooked up?
Options 3 with the dimmer… will this work on a pool light? Apparently no neutral is required here.
Option 4 with the switch at the sub panel… my concern here is the metal enclosure of a bell box and plastic cover. My guess is the RF will not penetrate my stucco.
I’ve attached some pictures here. Hopefully it all makes sense to someone! Thank you all again for your assistance.
I’m in the final stages of a pool remodel and I just pulled through new pool Amerilight pool and spa lights. I have one J-Box for the spa on one side of the house. One conduit in this J-Box is for the spa light, and the other gooes upstream to the pool light J-Box on the other side of the house (near sub panel). The other J-Box has the pool light coming in in one conduit, along with the downstream spa light in the other conduit. It then feeds upstream to the sub-panel. One leg (red marker) of the pool/spa light circuit goes to the 120v dumb switch. The other leg (magenta marker) comes back from the 120v dumb switch to the hot side of the GFCI. The load side (also magenta marker) of the GFCI is then connected to the other side of the pool/spa light circuit.
Ultimately I’d like to make the pool light switch smart. Having no neutral at the switch box presents a problem.
I’ve come up with a couple options:
1) Run new 12/3 with ground from panel to switch.
2) Use a Shelly 1L (possible no neutral but may have to use bypass).
3) Lutron Casetta dimmer (no neutral) at the switch.
4) Lutron Casetta switch at the sub panel (with neutral). Then add a wireless Pico remote.
All of these options preset challenges for me.
Option 1 is time consuming and costs money because of the small crawl space in the attic. I could attach new wire to the old wire and pull it out, but not sure if it’s stapled down. Also don’t want to damage the Romex in the ends of the conduit as it enters the soffit.
Option 2 with the Shelly 1L may work without the neutral bypass. I have questions about how to hook up the bypass at the panel. Is there anyone that currently uses the Shelly option? If the bypass is needed, how is it hooked up?
Options 3 with the dimmer… will this work on a pool light? Apparently no neutral is required here.
Option 4 with the switch at the sub panel… my concern here is the metal enclosure of a bell box and plastic cover. My guess is the RF will not penetrate my stucco.
I’ve attached some pictures here. Hopefully it all makes sense to someone! Thank you all again for your assistance.
