Help with Panel and Salt Addition

[plays10s]

This is what my panel currently says:
Intellichlor
Enable: Yes
Pool Mode: 30%
Spa Mode: 1%
Super Chlr: Off
Run Hours: 0

Currently, my chlorine is 0 when I test it (I've added bleach a few times this winter). My outside Intellichlor shows a red light that says "Low Salt". Can you tell me what each of these means and if they are set correctly? If not, what should they be set to. We only got a couple of weeks of swimming last year before it got too cold. I want to believe the pool company cut the salt down since it was producing a lot of chlorine. The last few days, we have had warmer weather with the pool temperature today is 65. I don't want it to turn green. I tested my salt this morning, and I have 1800 ppm. How much salt do I need to add? I'm assuming that just by turning up the pool mode % when it says low salt, would not help. Can someone tell me what each of these mean? Also, if you put Super Chlor to the "ON" position say after a party (is that when you use it?), how long do you put it at that?

Thanks for any help you can give me to help me understand my SWG.

LaDonna

 

[proavia]

Add one gallon of liquid chlorine now. Your FC should NEVER be zero.

Post a fully set of current test results from your TF-100.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water temp
Salt

Or you can post them to PoolMath and share the logs here for us to see.

You will need a salt test kit. I recommend the Taylor K1766 salt test kit.

Use the FC/CYA Levels to know how much liquid chlorine to add according to your CYA level. For now (until the SWG is correctly working), treat the pool as a non-SWG pool.

Set the SWG to zero percent until 24 hours after you get the salt level correct. You will need to continue to use liquid chlorine until the SWG is fully operational.

Once we know your current test results, we will be able to help more.

Additionally, add the model numbers for all your equipment to your signature.

 

[plays10s]

Add one gallon of liquid chlorine now. Your FC should NEVER be zero.

Post a fully set of current test results from your TF-100.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water temp
Salt

Or you can post them to PoolMath and share the logs here for us to see.

You will need a salt test kit. I recommend the Taylor K1766 salt test kit.

Use the FC/CYA Levels to know how much liquid chlorine to add according to your CYA level. For now (until the SWG is correctly working), treat the pool as a non-SWG pool.

Set the SWG to zero percent until 24 hours after you get the salt level correct. You will need to continue to use liquid chlorine until the SWG is fully operational.

Once we know your current test results, we will be able to help more.

Additionally, add the model numbers for all your equipment to your signature.

Sorry, I should have posted my current test results. However, my main question is being able to understand my panel. So, I'll do two separate paragraphs.

Here's what my panel box says outside:
Intellichlor
Enable: Yes
Pool Mode: 30%
Spa Mode: 1%
Super Chlr: Off
Run Hours: 0

Does "Enable" mean that the SWG is on? Does Pool Mode mean that it is on at 30%, even though when water temp is below 60 degrees, it's not operational? Do I need to set it to 0 in the winter? Or what percent? I don't understand what you mean by setting it to 0 percent until 24 hours after you get the salt level correct. The red button says it is low salt. Is that because I need to add salt? Or, do I need to raise the percent?
At what points do I use the Super Chlr - after a party? any other times? When it is used, I supposed I turn it "ON" but for how long. Could someone please answer all of these questions for me so I can understand my SWG.

Another issue, since my water has looked great (and still does), I've only been testing about every 3 weeks and then adding chemicals during the winter after each test. My pool was generating too much chlorine initially when they added the salt after the build, so I think the pool company reduced it to 30% (just opened it in the fall and only got 2 to 3 weeks of use out of it). Now, I just add bleach and intend to do that today after my testing. Sorry, I did not include my test results this morning, but here they are:'

FC - 0.0 (PM says add 2 quarts, 1 oz of bleach)
pH - 8.2 (PM says add 1 cup, 7 oz of Muriatic Acid)
TA - 55 (PM says add 3 lbs, 12 oz of baking soda)
CH - 275 (PM says add 12 lbs of calcium)
CYA - 35 (PM says add 4 lbs, 15 oz of stabilizer)
My Salt test was 1800/ppm - Red light is on. Do I need to add salt? How much? What ppm does it need to be?
CSI is good at 0.11.

 

[Jimrahbe]

P,

Does "Enable" mean that the SWG is on? No.. it just means you are telling your automation that you have an IntelliChlor installed.

Does Pool Mode mean that it is on at 30%, even though when water temp is below 60 degrees, it's not operational? Pool mode 30% only means that you want the cell to produce chlorine 30% of the time it is running. It does not mean that the cell is actually working. It is what you want it to do, not necessarily what it is doing.

Do I need to set it to 0 in the winter? Or what percent? I set mine to zero output during the winter when the cell is not producing chlorine. I doubt it matters one way or the other.

I don't understand what you mean by setting it to 0 percent until 24 hours after you get the salt level correct. You do not want the cell to see very high salt levels. When you initially add a lot of salt, it take time to even out through out the pool. We recommend not running the cell for 24 hours. Setting the percent to zero basically shuts the cell off.

The red button says it is low salt. Is that because I need to add salt? Or, do I need to raise the percent? Low salt means there is not enough salt in the pool water. This has nothing to do with the output percentage. The "salt cell" does not make salt, it uses the salt to make chlorine. The output percentage is the amount of time the cell is making chlorine, the higher the percentage, the more chlorine will be produced.

At what points do I use the Super Chlr - after a party? any other times? When it is used? I have three salt water pools that I have had for over 10 years and I have never used Super Chlorinate.

I supposed I turn it "ON" but for how long. Could someone please answer all of these questions for me so I can understand my SWG. You need to run your pump and cell for the time it takes to generate the amount of chlorine you pool needs. You test and see what you FC level is. If it is low, you will need to increase the % of output or increase the amount of time you are running the cell, or a combination of both. It your FC level is too high, you do the opposite.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[proavia]

Jim has you covered on your initial questions.

Did you add the chlorine? What FC number were you targeting?

No need to be in a rush to add calcium (CH) or stabilizer (CYA). Be sure there is FC in the pool water and let's take the rest a step at a time.....

What is the pool water temperature?

Did you get the salt reading from the SWG or the test kit I referenced? The salt reading from the SWG is basically an electric conduction test and doesn't necessarily reflect the actual salt reading.

It isn't possible to get a CYA of 35. The scale on the test tube is logarithmic and not linear. If the reading falls between two lines, round up. So your CYA is 40.

How did you get a reading of 55 for TA? Did you do the test until the last drop didn't produce any change in color and then subtract the last drop?

 

[pjt]

PM says add

Remember PoolMath is just a calculator. Don't blindly follow its outputs. A good understanding of pool chemistry is essential. Then use PM to help with the calculations.

ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry

There are several items things every pool owner should know about swimming pool water. We share details on the basics of Pool Water Chemistry.

www.troublefreepool.com

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

You need chlorine immediately (use liquid chlorine). You need salt so your SWG will function. I wouldn't add any baking soda. TA down to 50 is fine. What's the TA and CH of your fill water?

 

[plays10s]

P,

Does "Enable" mean that the SWG is on? No.. it just means you are telling your automation that you have an IntelliChlor installed.

Does Pool Mode mean that it is on at 30%, even though when water temp is below 60 degrees, it's not operational? Pool mode 30% only means that you want the cell to produce chlorine 30% of the time it is running. It does not mean that the cell is actually working. It is what you want it to do, not necessarily what it is doing.

Do I need to set it to 0 in the winter? Or what percent? I set mine to zero output during the winter when the cell is not producing chlorine. I doubt it matters one way or the other.

I don't understand what you mean by setting it to 0 percent until 24 hours after you get the salt level correct. You do not want the cell to see very high salt levels. When you initially add a lot of salt, it take time to even out through out the pool. We recommend not running the cell for 24 hours. Setting the percent to zero basically shuts the cell off.

The red button says it is low salt. Is that because I need to add salt? Or, do I need to raise the percent? Low salt means there is not enough salt in the pool water. This has nothing to do with the output percentage. The "salt cell" does not make salt, it uses the salt to make chlorine. The output percentage is the amount of time the cell is making chlorine, the higher the percentage, the more chlorine will be produced.

At what points do I use the Super Chlr - after a party? any other times? When it is used? I have three salt water pools that I have had for over 10 years and I have never used Super Chlorinate.

I supposed I turn it "ON" but for how long. Could someone please answer all of these questions for me so I can understand my SWG. You need to run your pump and cell for the time it takes to generate the amount of chlorine you pool needs. You test and see what you FC level is. If it is low, you will need to increase the % of output or increase the amount of time you are running the cell, or a combination of both. It your FC level is too high, you do the opposite.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thank you so much for answering all my questions! It helps me to understand my system since I am a newbie. I'm wondering how many bags of salt to add. Also, on the Pool Math Calculator, when I ask it to track salt, what should my MIN, TARGET, and MAX be. It will not track it unless I fill in those numbers.

Here's my yesterday's results (I'm still needing salt - haven't added it yet)
FC - 0.5 (I'm adding 54 oz of bleach today).
pH - 8.4 (should add 18 oz of muriatic acid)
TA - 50
CH - 300
CYA - 50
Salt was 1800 (reading red and low on cell)
Water Temp was 64 degrees

Thanks again for your help!

 

[plays10s]

Jim has you covered on your initial questions.

Did you add the chlorine? What FC number were you targeting?

No need to be in a rush to add calcium (CH) or stabilizer (CYA). Be sure there is FC in the pool water and let's take the rest a step at a time.....

What is the pool water temperature?

Did you get the salt reading from the SWG or the test kit I referenced? The salt reading from the SWG is basically an electric conduction test and doesn't necessarily reflect the actual salt reading.

It isn't possible to get a CYA of 35. The scale on the test tube is logarithmic and not linear. If the reading falls between two lines, round up. So your CYA is 40.

How did you get a reading of 55 for TA? Did you do the test until the last drop didn't produce any change in color and then subtract the last drop?

Thank you for helping me! To answer some of your questions, my water temp is 64. The red cell says low salt. When tested, it is 1800. My CYA is now 50. I understand now about rounding. The TA of 55 was probably a typo. Should have been 50. Adding some bleach today until I can figure out how many bags of salt to add. I have asked some questions to Jim, so will wait to hear his answers. If you want to jump in, too, that's fine. I learn a lot from listening to everyone. Thanks again!

 

[Jimrahbe]

P,

Your salt needs to be above 2800 and below 4000 ppm.

Pentair suggests a normal salt level of 3600 ppm.

I shoot for about 3000 to 3200 on my pools, as it keeps the salt taste down.

One 40 lb. bag of salt will increase your salt level by about 280 ppm.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[pjt]

FC - 0.5 (I'm adding 54 oz of bleach today).

You need to add more LC until you add salt and your SWG is functional. A gallon would be appropriate.

pH - 8.4 (should add 18 oz of muriatic acid)
TA - 50

How are you measuring 8.4? For the TA test, are you adding drops until there is no further color change? If the TA is actually 50, your pH should stabilize lower than 8.4.

 

[plays10s]

P,

Your salt needs to be above 2800 and below 4000 ppm.

Pentair suggests a normal salt level of 3600 ppm.

I shoot for about 3000 to 3200 on my pools, as it keeps the salt taste down.

One 40 lb. bag of salt will increase your salt level by about 280 ppm.

Thanks,

Jim R.

This is great information! I appreciate it so much!