Help with electrical upgrades, timer, incorporating SWG

[Pauls234]

All right, I am replacing the 30’ AGP I inherited with this house with another 30’ (currently in boxes in my garage) so decided it is also a good time to upgrade to SWG (purchased Circupool RJ 60).

Now I need help in thinking through what I need for electrical upgrades and how to incorporate my SWG into plumbing. Equipment pad area (such as it is) does not have many limitations, see pics. I wouldn't move the gas heater, but am moving the electric to accommodate a larger shed. Current plumbing is flex PVC that is disconnected and brought in for the winter, along with pump and cartridge filter which sit on their own hayward plastic base.

I will be hiring an electrician but want to educate myself so I know what to ask for and have a basic understanding of how it all works. I am figuring I will have to do the plumbing myself so interested in learning some new things as I have not worked much with PVC in my life (outside of disconnecting and reconnecting my plumbing the last 10 pool seasons).


Current equipment:

2 speed 1.5HP Hayward pump
Raypak heater 406A natural gas
Cartridge filter (150 Sq Ft)
Aqualuminator (AGP return light, 3 prong plug)
Dolphin cleaner
SWG (new)

Current electric is standard 2 receptacle GFCI outlet, everything plugs in using a regular 3 prong plug. Pump plugs in through a digital timer for daily operation.

What do I want out of my system? Simple is a good start. I would like my pump and SWG on a timer, no need for the heat to be on a timer.

Questions:

· What kind of timer - one of the intermatic models? Any recs or specs I should focus on?

· Can my pump be wired such that hi and low run times can be programmed in or is that always a manual flip of the switch? (This isn't really critical - I only use high speed when running the heater which I always turn on manually)

· How is the SWG wired to the timer? I've been reading that I want to ensure that the SWG cannot get power if the pump cannot get power so do I just ensure the SWG on timer is always set inside of pump run time?

· Will the addition of the SWG and timer require any upgrades to electric that runs from house out to pool?

Fortunately the electrician specializes in pool and hot tub electric which is not that common around here.

I'm going to have things bonded as well.
Can the bonding be done in a C rather than the full loop? I have some concern about having space for a person to crawl under the deck and dig/bury the copper wire.

For plumbing the SWG do I just cut my flex pvc return line a bit after the heater and splice in the swg? From the pic, the suction and return lines run against the bottom wood step where pavers meet it, and then go under stairs to reyurn and skimmer, but I can change that if there is a better way.

Thx!
Paul

 

[Poolbreh]

Hi paul, we would need the model of the pump or the manual to know if it has the capability to be hooked up to a timer. Most dual speeds have hi com low and are required to be hooked up to specific timers. From there if possible you can hook up the swg to the low or high speed load. If not possible you can have it run off a 120v intermatic with swg hooked up to load side(circupool factory set 240v) you would still have to manually switch between high/low.
The things that I think you should get are a sub panel 50 amp at least for future upgrades so all the power is there if and when you need it. (Easy/clean if everything is on it’s own breaker)
As far as your layout, it may be easier to run the pipes and hook up the equipment like you usually do so we can get a visual.
If it was my pool I would have everything in
Pvc and not flex, but I’ve never lived in a cold climate and can see the appeal of removing all the plumbing during winter months. I am also not certain of the port size of your intake/return pool/filter and if the unions are proprietary to its design.

 

[Newdude]

If it was my pool I would have everything in
Pvc and not flex, but I’ve never lived in a cold climate and can see the appeal of removing all the plumbing during winter months

+1. Rigid PVC comes apart with the same or similar unions and then you bring it inside just the same.

Something like this would be the way to go for the electrician. By the time you add a sub panel and buy timers, just have the whole kabootle in 1 because it's so close to the house. The swg timer would operate less than the pump timer, at times within the pump time.

INT-MAT T30404R 125A POOL CNTRL CTR | Gordon Electric Supply, Inc.

For plumbing the SWG do I just cut my flex pvc return line a bit after the heater and splice in the swg?

Exactly that. Maybe upgrade to rigid pipe while you are at it. It can come inside just the same for the winter with unions. If you get a SWG with a separate flow switch, like the circupools, the flow switch needs to be on a horizontal run or upflow vertical pipe that can only have flow when the SWG does. If you don't have a waste line for your cart filter, that can be anywhere on your simple setup that isn't up flow.

 

[Pauls234]

Thanks guys, I'll get a pic with the plumbing at least laying in place so you have a better idea of the configuration. I'd be fine with going to hard pvc. When I moved in there was only that little wimpy flex hose so flex pvc was a big and easy upgrade and have never had a good reason to go another step up to hard, but now I do, especially with being able to remove for winter with unions which I hadn't thought of.

I took a pic of the pump label for model# but looks like the label itself shows that high and low can be wired to a timer if I'm interpreting it correctly?

 

[Poolbreh]

I can only find one type of timer for a dual speed pump that works with 120v

Time Clock, Intermatic PE153, 24 hr, 115v/230v, 3PST, Digital - INYOPools.com

PE153 - DIGITAL CONTROL PE153, COMPACT SIZE (PE153)

www.inyopools.com

But I’m wondering if it’s worth going that route. It may be best to do a simple 120v intermatic and tie swg into the load side and continue to switch manually until the pump dies. Than you can upgrade to vs. or you can add a receptacle plug on the swg and do another receptacle timer and run it within the filter pumps parameters. I’m just thinking long term upgrades. But I think having a sub panel is a must if you continue to plan to have your layout where it is.

 

[Pauls234]

I can only find one type of timer for a dual speed pump that works with 120v

Time Clock, Intermatic PE153, 24 hr, 115v/230v, 3PST, Digital - INYOPools.com

PE153 - DIGITAL CONTROL PE153, COMPACT SIZE (PE153)

www.inyopools.com

But I’m wondering if it’s worth going that route. It may be best to do a simple 120v intermatic and tie swg into the load side and continue to switch manually until the pump dies. Than you can upgrade to vs. or you can add a receptacle plug on the swg and do another receptacle timer and run it within the filter pumps parameters. I’m just thinking long term upgrades. But I think having a sub panel is a must if you continue to plan to have your layout where it is.

Thanks for checking that, Poolbreh. Those timers are more expensive than I expected. My pump is pretty new, only has a few months on it and is garage kept the other months so it shouldn't die anytime soon.

Here are a few more pics of the area with plumbing laid out. I'm only adding an swg, so now wondering if I should just get a 2nd receptacle and stick to my simple plug in digital timer. I have no expectations of adding anything else. Can you elaborate on sub panel being a must if I keep my layout like it is? I could reconfigure the layout, just can't move the heater.

Getting a new shed soon too but not certain what it will look like. I suppose I could have the skimmer/return wall on this side of the stairs and run the plumbing straight across and bury it, but not sure if that would make a difference with anything other than nit crawling under the stairs twice a year.

 

[Newdude]

but not sure if that would make a difference with anything other than nit crawling under the stairs twice a year

An hour with shovel will save exactly that. 3 head lumps, twice a year.

Also, my vote FWIW.

 

[Poolbreh]

as far as the sub panel I was just thinking long term. If a pump went out, or you wanted fully incorporate into automation. You would have all the electrical there 240/120v it would open more options.

 

[Pauls234]

Thanks guys, appreciate the input.