Help with current Chem

[5bucks]

I’m not sure why I confused by this at the moment but but when I use pool math and then look at Effects of Adding, my brain is not comprehending. Why am i not holding chlorine? I realize my combined his high. I just added stabilizer yesterday and maybe bleach too soon after? Should I do anything with ph and ta?

FC. .24
TC .96

PH 6.8
TA 56

CYA 31

 

[Texas Splash]

Let's recap a few things you posted:
1. How did you get those water results? They are not from a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C, so we have to question how accurate they are.
2 - Lets assume the numbers above are accurate, then:
** CYA at 30 is fine
** PH of 6.8 is too low. Add aeration to the water if able or increase the TA by 10-20 ppm which should help it rise a bit.
** TA is a bit low; As noted above, increase the TA 10-20 ppm
** FC is much too low. It should never be below 2, and depending on the CYA throughout the year, may actually need to be much higher per the FC/CYA Levels.

I would be concerned about two things right now:
1 - The potential for algae which is why you can't hold chlorine; algae requires the SLAM Process to kill & remove it.
2 - Accurate test results.

So let us know how you are testing and we'll go from there.

 

[5bucks]

Thanks so much. It is unfortunately from a pool store. One I trust way more than others from the past, but a pool store none the less. My kit is MIA and a million other things you probably wouldn’t believe if I told you. I just want to get this close so it doesn’t go south on me. Water “looks” good. No signs of algae. Brushed well. Just a tad bit of literal dirt and three leaves left over from settlement after third vacuum. High winds and being surrounded by open fields, not to mention plowing by a four mule team 10 feet from the pool make spring difficult. Sounds like adding some baking soda and a slam might be easiest. Do you think I actually need to slam?

 

[Texas Splash]

Do you think I actually need to slam?

Very possible, but without one of those test kits we just don't know. Performing the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test is a key aspect of knowing your water is algae-free. Until you get the kit, you're swimming blind, but do what you can. I would get the pH and TA up just a bit. The pH needs to be at least 7.2 and no more than 7.8. The tA has lots of flexibility, anything from 50 to 120 or more. For now, a TA of about 70 or so might help the pH rise for you.

Add some liquid chlorine ASAP. You should try to keep it around 5-6 ppm for now, although without a kit at home you're guessing a bit. The PoolMath APP should help you figure out how much chlorine is about 4 ppm worth to add each day.

As soon as you can get a kit, post a set of your numbers and we'll be happy to coach you through everything. No guesswork, no wasted chemicals, no excessive money handed to the pool store clerk.

 

[5bucks]

First off, thank you for not bashing me for getting a pool store test. I’ve been using tfp since receiving advice on construction a number of years ago and do trust the processes. This year drastic times called for drastic measures
So….. chem held steady as best as I can tell. So far so so good. Will update once get kit if need be. NOOWWW…. it appears the “dirt” I spoke of may not be dirt. I believe I’m getting stuff back in the pool from the (de) filter. What should I check first??
Also, tear repair. I was planning on a double patch due to the appearance of the tear. Do you think I have to wait to apply the second, larger one? Using vinyl repair kit adhesive and pieces of pool liner. Thank you!