Help understanding test results and clearing green cloudy pool

mbec

New member
Jun 19, 2023
3
Atlanta
Pool Size
16000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
Hi TFP community,

New (and frustrated!) pool owner. I have an IG vinyl pool with SWG and sand filter. Long story short - moved in to the house last summer and the pool was fine but then sprung a leak. Took three pool companies to come out and claim it was the light under the diving board so had that resealed. The pool sat for a while since the water drained under the skimmer (right to where the pool light is). Once that was fixed I filled the water back up and treated the swampy green mess that took over (prior to learning about the TFP slam method) Only took about a week to get it clear. Once the pool was clean - it started leaking again. Turns out it was a small hole in the liner on the floor in the shallow end - patched it up, no problems. Until it started dropping water level again. By then it was too cold to get back in the pool so it sat unattended for 6+ months.

Now all leaks are fixed and the pool is holding water but this go around I'm having the hardest time getting the water clear. Before finding this website I took samples to the pool store (I know, I know, I now have a TF-100 kit). They did say I had a very high copper lever - 1.5. I've been draining water through backwashing and vacuuming to waste and refilling. The pool has gone from a very dark green to a turquoise cloudy pool.

I had very little CYA (pool store said 5 - TF Test kit doesn't register any so assuming 0). I added a 4lb bag of clorox stablizer using the sock method. Tested the CYA a couple days later and it raised to almost 20. However, two days later the TF-100 CYA test was 0. It was almost completely clear, black dot very visible. I've been pouring 10% bleach in daily, brushing, vacuuming, backwashing and all of the rest of my numbers have been fairly consistent. I just added 4lbs of stablizer again to try to get CYA up to 30.

Am I doing this right? Do I just need to be patient? I don't fully understand what my levels need to be?

First day 6/20/23- (*pool store test numbers*)
FC - .7
CC - 1.2
pH - 7.2
TA - 85
CH - 90
CYA - 5
Copper 1.5

4 days ago (6/23/23):
FC - 12.5
CC - 1.5
PH - 7.5
TA - 85
CH - 86
CYA - <20 almost registering 20

Yesterday:
FC - 13.5
CC - 0 (I think I messed this one up)
pH- 7.2
TA - 80
CH - 175
CYA - 0

Today:
FC - 9.5
CC - 2.0
pH - 7.2
TA - 80
CH - 125
CYA - 0

SOS!
 
Hey there fellow Georgian :wave:
Are you holding the CYA test vial waist high, outside, with the sun to your back? Easiest way is to fill it up to each ten degree mark and then look away, then glance quickly at it. Don't stare. It is a subjective test but you'll get more comfortable the more you do it. Also for a double check, just pour it back into the test bottle and try again!

Your pool is vinyl, don't worry about adding calcium.

Do you know if you've added copper to the pool via cheaper algaecide or puck use like Clorox XtraBlue products? That's a lot of copper in your pool. Did the pool ever have a heater that you know of? You're going to need to get new water in there in place of the copper laden water.

Your goal is to get 30ppm of CYA in the water, and that SLAM process value would be 12ppm of FC which you will *maintain* until the water is sparkly clear, no visible algae and lastly you pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT).

Each gallon of 10% Liquid Chlorine will raise your FC level by 6ppm.

Links to help:
SLAM Process
PoolMath
Pool Care Basics

Please holler back with questions as they arise :)

Maddie :flower:
 
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Welcome to TFP.
It is concerning about the copper. Is this test after you have partial drained and refilled the pool?
I would take a pool water sample to the pool store again and specifically ask them to test for copper.
The only way to get rid of copper is to drain your pool. Please read Copper in Pool Water - Further Reading

Once you determine the copper level we can address the other areas as there is no sense to put chemicals in then you drain the pool.

CYA - it normally takes 2-4 days for the CYA test to register (depends how long you run your pump daily). So don’t be too quick to add more stabilizer until you know for sure about the current level. You can only lose CYA by draining, so not sure why you had some then went to zero. Maybe a testing error. Please consider this for a modified testing of CYA

Pour the mixed solution to a known level, say 90, peer in and confirm you can see black dot. Now pour mixed solution to 80 mark, peer in again, if you can still see dot, hold tube up and pour mixed solution to the 70 mark, then peer in again to view dot. Continue this until you are not able to see the dot - then use your CYA number as the value you last saw the dot. This method avoids constantly looking down the tube which can create the illusion of always seeing the dot due to staring down the tube. This also helps that you only report CYA values in decade numbers due to the logarithmic scale of the tube.

If you do not need to drain due to the copper, then achieving a CYA of 30 is ideal for a SLAM Process
Good Luck and we are here to help.
 
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Unfortunately no heater, just cheap algaecide before finding this website (UGH). Would the copper also be contributing to any of the green or cloudy water? I've been draining and vacuuming to waste to try to get some dead algae out as well and refilling with hose water. Took it to the pool store for copper testing again and it was down from 1.5 to .9 so I still have some ways to go. Do we believe the pool store copper test? I don't have any metal testing in my TF-100 right?

I'm hoping the CYA was testing error - and that is highly likely as I am very new to this.

Would you suggest continuing the SLAM method since I am having to vacuum to waste and backwash then refill with hose water to help with getting the copper out or stop the SLAM and focus on getting the copper down? I just don't want the pool to get worse while waiting for copper to go down. See photos for my starting point and where I am now (but can't seem to get this water to turn clear or blue. I'm stuck at this opaque turquoise).

There is also now what I've seen on this website as a "cat in the hat ring" of brown stain around the vinyl liner water edge as well as the steps. I tried rubbing a puck on it and it didn't budge so I'm assuming its from the copper? I'm going to try the vitamin C tablet trick next. Any other tricks?

Thank you everyone for your responses!!
 

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@YippeeSkippy may have additional ideas.
I think you can struggle with partial drains and adding chlorine to fight algae & copper but it will be a long process. The easier process would be to drain and start fresh as it will also remove some of the algae. You need to be careful draining your vinyl pool.
Please read below and consider the Water Exchange method
 
I am going to suggest something slightly different. I would ignore copper, not drain the pool, and then complete a SLAM until the pool was crystal clear. Once that is done, then retake the copper test and act according to those results.

I have never trusted pool store tests for copper and it may be quite different once you complete the SLAM. (That doesn't imply the SLAM will alter your copper content..........I just would like to make this a 2-part clearing up

So, if you choose that path, please post a current set of test results (ignoring copper for now) and post those up for us to look at but be prepared to start a SLAM. Use the links YippeeSkippy provided to get ready for the SLAM and we'll ALL help getting you going.
 
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