- May 17, 2018
- 124
- Pool Size
- 11000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
I have had a suction side leak for awhile and have been getting more air blowing out of one return (the closest to pump) of two returns. I have looked at the pool school article on trying to diagnose suction side leaks, multiple threads and elsewhere but still haven’t nailed it.
The Hayward VS950 pump primes seemingly just fine and blows out most all of the air but with some small swirling bubbles. When I turn the pump off there is a remaining bubble at the top but the bump basket doesn’t drain out and holds its suction like it should when turned off and observed for a few hours. If I run the pump at the lowest speeds (e.g. 28-33%), things are stable and the bubble at the top remains stable and no air is observed coming out of the return. When I go to 50% speed, the water level in the pump basket will gradually drop and I will fairly soon see air and hear air coming from the return. When I then run at 100% to blow out all the air and then continue run at high speed I don’t see or hear much or any air coming out of the return but see some small remaining swirling bubbles in the full pump basket. At medium speed I do think I see small bubbles coming from the input pipe into the pump basket.
So the air leak seems pump speed-dependent and most likely above ground between 3-way valve and pump since shutting down the drain or skimmer don’t appear to impact things. But here is all of what I’ve done so far in an attempt to figure this out before calling a “pro”.
A. Opened the pump-input pipe coupling, silicon re-lube and replace O-ring. I am not observing any leaking there as tested above and I think I do see small bubbles coming from the input pipe into the pump basket. But maybe leak retest at a medium speed instead of high speed? If I do change this input O-ring, it looks like I have to unmount the pump and also decouple the output pressure side to be able to get that O-ring in there (or change both). Is that correct? I am a little skittish on this given a past history with cracked threaded couplers on my Hayward SWG.
B. I have not yet opened up the 3-way valve and replaced any O-rings there. But again, no obvious air leaks there as tested above... I did start to try opening that valve by removing the 8 stainless screws on top but the top would not easily come off. Maybe I should have opened the pump basket or released the system vacuum to allow the top to release….
Any more suggestions are appreciated. And here is a pic in case its needed.
The Hayward VS950 pump primes seemingly just fine and blows out most all of the air but with some small swirling bubbles. When I turn the pump off there is a remaining bubble at the top but the bump basket doesn’t drain out and holds its suction like it should when turned off and observed for a few hours. If I run the pump at the lowest speeds (e.g. 28-33%), things are stable and the bubble at the top remains stable and no air is observed coming out of the return. When I go to 50% speed, the water level in the pump basket will gradually drop and I will fairly soon see air and hear air coming from the return. When I then run at 100% to blow out all the air and then continue run at high speed I don’t see or hear much or any air coming out of the return but see some small remaining swirling bubbles in the full pump basket. At medium speed I do think I see small bubbles coming from the input pipe into the pump basket.
So the air leak seems pump speed-dependent and most likely above ground between 3-way valve and pump since shutting down the drain or skimmer don’t appear to impact things. But here is all of what I’ve done so far in an attempt to figure this out before calling a “pro”.
- The water level is high enough and there is no vortexing of air thru the skimmer unless I run all skimmer at the highest speeds. I always have some drain open too.
- Tested both all drain or all skimmer settings on the 3-way valve. No obvious difference.
- The pump basket retains all water when the pump is off (observed for a few hours)
- Flooded the ground area around the return pipes to see if it reduced any leak that might be at the elbows under ground. No obvious difference.
- Used the water hose, foam and smoke and Saran plastic wrap to try to spot any air intake at fittings, valves, etc. between the pump and drain and skimmer pipes (nothing obvious)
- Changed skimmer basket lid and gasket with silicon pool lube grease (no effect).
- Removed drain plugs for pump basket, inspected O-rings, lubed with silicon pool grease. (no effect).
A. Opened the pump-input pipe coupling, silicon re-lube and replace O-ring. I am not observing any leaking there as tested above and I think I do see small bubbles coming from the input pipe into the pump basket. But maybe leak retest at a medium speed instead of high speed? If I do change this input O-ring, it looks like I have to unmount the pump and also decouple the output pressure side to be able to get that O-ring in there (or change both). Is that correct? I am a little skittish on this given a past history with cracked threaded couplers on my Hayward SWG.
B. I have not yet opened up the 3-way valve and replaced any O-rings there. But again, no obvious air leaks there as tested above... I did start to try opening that valve by removing the 8 stainless screws on top but the top would not easily come off. Maybe I should have opened the pump basket or released the system vacuum to allow the top to release….
Any more suggestions are appreciated. And here is a pic in case its needed.
