Help! New owner trying to figure out next steps...

[Sid432]

Hello,

So, My Taylor K-2006C just arrived today and I will be learning my pool chemistry again which I forgot when I was in college. While reading on this forum has helped me understand immensely, however, I would still like to ask the help needed. My pool has not been opened since we became the new owner (~ 5 yrs). We had the big pine tree and all the debris went inside the pool because the pool cover was ripped and some fell while removing it. Basically, my pool is a little pond with debris, green water, and frogs/tadpoles. I have a Hayward DE filter that I had the pool guys to open and function. Now, the question - do I hire some one to vacuum the pool first of the debris that's settled at the bottom( can't see anymore because water is green)? or try the SLAM'ing process to get the water turn to lighter color and then vacuum?

In either scenario, where can I rent the industry grade vacuum to vacuum my above ground pool. My pool size is around 16 X 32.
Please assume I am dumb with the pool stuff so appreciate explaining in layman terms

Here is my test results:
FC: After adding R-0870 (2 dipper), the color of sample didn't turn pink. It stayed clear (we had to refill the water above skimmer level, could this the cause ?)
pH: The pH level was like Magenta. After performing Acid Demand Test, added 4-5 drops of R-0005, it seems that color changed in between 7.0-7.2. ~40 PPM
Note: please see the attached pictures.
TA: As per the instructions, the sample supposedly turn to RED but instead it turned to magenta/pink (4 drops). So, I kept adding hoping to see RED but that didn't help as the color stayed the same even after adding 10 drops in total. So, is it 40 PPM ?
CYA: The sample itself is clear after adding R-0013 to 14ml Mark and I can see the dot clearly from the top even when it was full. Once again, could this be the cause of re-filling the water in the pool?
CH: 80 PPM

Please suggest next course of actions. See the pictures attached
Below is the initial color.

After 4 drops

After 5 drops

 

[Texas Splash]

Good job testing your own water. Let's get to some questions:
- I like to call the TA color Barbie pink. not so much red. The key is when it stop changing shades, that's it. You're done.
- CYA test w/ black dot visible to teh top means you have no CYA at all.
- No change in color when you add teh R-0870 powder means you have no FC

Now the big question - the swamp. Are you physically able to sweep, vacuum, and clean teh filter when needed? If so, then you can do it. We can help you through it all. When tackling a green swamp, it's always best to sweep and scoop a lot to try and remove any large debris at the bottom. All you want in there is green water. Then you start the SLAM Process. That is when we help show you how to change the water from green to blue, then finally clear. The details of the SLAM Process lay it all out for you, now we just need to know if you're ready.

One final thought, in some cases when a pool has sat for a while, it is advantages to exchange some water to help the chlorine along. With today's chlorine process sometimes water is cheaper. So if you are interested in changing some water, let's use 50% as an example, let us know.

Depending on your answers we'll go from there and help you with anything else you have a question about.

 

[Texas Splash]

Oh, and as for those pH images above. the middle one where it's more orange is somewhere around the 7.2-7.4 range. That's fine. The yellow one (low) and dark magenta (high) you never want. We can help you adjust that too.

 

[Sid432]

Thank you @Texas Splash for taking in time to respond. I truly appreciate it. So, pH can be adjusted and 4 drops it is.

So, remember I said that debris fell while removing the pool cover. The pool cover was ripped so much that I had to empty out 50% of the water that was above it. Since, we had the pool guys opened the pool, their requirements was to have the water above skimmer level so we had to re-fill that 50%.

Now, I’m kind of a guy where I can take things apart and put it back if I know the instructions. So, cleaning filter shouldn’t be a problem unless I break it . At this point, the debris and possibly green stuff has settled in the bottom where I cannot see the bottom of pool. However, I can try and scooping out but it’s like “shooting a dart in dark”. You wouldn’t know if it’s actually beneficial. Should I hire some one to vacuum it?

Either way, you guys are the expert and am willing to follow thru your advise.

 

[Texas Splash]

Many members here have opened their own pool under similar conditions and brought it back to life. I'm sure you can too as long as you understand the items on the equipment pad and are able to brush/vacuum as needed. If your filter has a multiport valve, you can also vacuum to WASTE from time to time. The SLAM Process does work though. With a green pool like yours, it could take a week or two and a good amount of chlorine, so you might factor the cost benefits of doing a partial water exchange before starting the SLAM Process.

 

[Sid432]

I have the below filter. I’m assuming I can set the setting to waste, right ?

If all it requires the chlorine and shock then what quantity are we looking at it ? I have few packs of shock that the pool store gave us along with algaecide. Does HD liquid chlorine works which costs about ~$5/gallon??

I was thinking if we can get the water to turn some what clearer then I can probably rent out the industry grade pool vacuum and clean out the debris. Does it sound reasonable?

Hayward Pro DE filter

4 packs of this

 

[Sid432]

Any suggestions ?

Downloaded Pool Math app and going to go buy Liquid Chlorine and Stabilizer from the pool store.
The app recommended to get to 45 PPM of CYA --> 7 lbs 15 OZ of stabilizer and 136 oz of liquid chlorine (12%) with the 6 ppm of target FC and 45 PPM of CYA.
Please suggest @Texas Splash

Thanks...

 

[Texas Splash]

Do you have a slide/plunger valve on the filter or a side-mount multiport valve? You can only move water to waste with a MPV. Confirm your current CYA first. If it's at least 30, do not increase it any further. If you look at the FC/CYA Levels you'll see the SLAM FC level of a pool with a CYA of 30 is "12". If your CYA is closer to 40, then you maintain an FC of 16. But don't increase the CYA any higher or you'll be required to maintain a higher FC level.

 

[Sid432]

Thank you @Texas Splash
I have no CYA at all, are you recommending to get to only 30 ppm and a target FC if 12 ?

These are the settings I have on the filter and I think I can clean it when it’s required.

 

[Texas Splash]

Yes, a min CYA of 30 will work well for your SLAM Process. That label confirms you do have a multiport valve (MPV). Make sure you always turn the pump OFF before changing settings. Users typically turn the handle in one direction to help keep the spider gasket inside from getting pinched. If you vacuum to WASTE, watch the pool water level as it can drop quite fast. Otherwise, you will BACKWASH when the filter pressure begins to rise by about 25%. But if you have any questions as you move forward let us know.

 

[Sid432]

Hi @Texas Splash

So, I have started SLAM'ing. I have poured 12.5% Chlorine of 153 oz and 130 oz of CYA based on the online tool which tells the gallons my pool hold. However, I am seeing some conflicting information. Some saying, I have to multiply the size by 7.9 or 5.9 and I am not sure which one is the correct one for Above ground oval pool of 18x33x4.

Leslies said that it's 12265 gallons pool. Based on that, above quantity was recommended by PoolMath app. I hope I am doing it correct.
Also, I think it's good to add under chemicals than over chemicals because you can always add the extra chemicals needed after testing. I will try and test the FC and CYA tomorrow

 

[Texas Splash]

I got about 17,800 from our older TFP web calculator tool, but you are correct. It's better to be a little low on estimates for now. You can always add more chemicals later. Keep notes as you add chlorine. If you are currently at an FC of 8 and intend to reach 12, but you come-up short using the pool volume and estimate, then your pool must be larger than you entered. By contrast, if you overshoot your goal and hit 14-16, your pool is smaller.

 

[Sid432]

GM @Texas Splash

Hope you had a great weekend!
it seems you are right, my pool may be greater than 12265 gallons.

After adding 153 oz of chlorine & few hours later 128 oz of liquid CYA stabilizer, I was able to get some part of chlorine (0.2 ppm) and CYA still was clear (was able to see the dot even all the way it filled the testing tube). The water has significantly turned lighter color (like tealish/ light bluish). I now have the dry stabilizer that I am intending to dissolve and pour in the pool to get the effectiveness of chlorine.

one question though, PoolMath recommended to add 133 oz of the CYA stabilizer. After adding it, why I was not able to see any reading of CYA. If we take the error on pool size then I should be adding the remaining amount in the pool, correct? which is estimated to be 21 oz ? Appreciate your assistance

 

[Texas Splash]

one question though, PoolMath recommended to add 133 oz of the CYA stabilizer. After adding it, why I was not able to see any reading of CYA. If we take the error on pool size then I should be adding the remaining amount in the pool, correct? which is estimated to be 21 oz ?

How long ago did you add the stabilizer? And please confirm the method in which you added it. Best to be sure.

 

[Sid432]

@Texas Splash
I added the Liquid chlorine on Saturday around 11 AM, CYA liquid stabilizer on Saturday around 3 PM. I re-tested their levels on Sunday 10 AM
I had the 1 gallon of liquid CYA stabilizer and I just poured on along around the pool.

 

[Texas Splash]

I had the 1 gallon of liquid CYA stabilizer and I just poured on along around the pool.

Liquid conditioner is quite thick. Did you have to sweep it around at all to help it disperse? It should've increased your CYA to the desired goal by now. The 133 ounces of liquid conditioner you added should've increased your CYA by just over 20 ppm. I recall you were showing zero CYA last week, so if the 133 ounces you added was all thus far, the CYA is probably still low which is why you continue to see the black dot. You could try adding another 10 ppm of CYA which is 60 ounces of liquid conditioner or 23 ounces of dry stabilizer based on a pool about 17K in size. Best to increase slowly in stages so that you don't go too high right now.

 

[Sid432]

No - I didn't have to sweep or do anything, it was the cloudy liquid and I just poured around the jet and some other part of the pool. I just tested again now, I am still able to see the dot even when the tube is filled at the toppest but I see little blurry unlike crystal clear like last time. so, I am guessing some form of CYA is there

When you say 23 ounces of dry stabilizer, should I just put the powder until it reaches 23 ounces on the measuring cup? or something else?

Please advise @Texas Splash

 

[Sid432]

An update @Texas Splash,
I tried to dissolve the CYA stabilizer as much as I could with pool water and poured back in the pool. The left over granules was put in the socks and in front of the return jet. I see very lower pressure coming from return jet. So, I believe it's, time for backwashing, correct (pressure gauge showing to be 20 psi vs 8-10 psi is normal per instructions)? or would you recommend opening the pool and hose down the DE filters?

After performing backwashing --> rinsing cycle until water comes out clean, should I coat with DE powder while CYA stabilizer is still in the pool? or should I pre-coat with DE powder and then put back the CYA because as much liquid chlorine I am pouring, I guess it's just evaporating due to the direct sunlight especially when it's 80+ degrees.

I re-tested it and found the FC to be still at 0.2 ppm and I can still see the black dot, although little blurry now when filled up until 30 ppm.

please advise.

Thank you very much...

 

[Texas Splash]

I tried to dissolve the CYA stabilizer as much as I could with pool water and poured back in the pool. The left over granules was put in the socks and in front of the return jet.

No need to pre-soak. In the future, just place all the granules in a sock, then let the sock soak for about 30 min. Then just start squeezing and you should get it all out in about 15 min. For now, make sure no granules are laying solid on the liner.

I see very lower pressure coming from return jet. So, I believe it's, time for backwashing,

It sounds like it. So yes, backwash until the waste water looks clear, rinse for about 30 seconds or so. Yes, you will need to do a slight recharge of DE to replenish what was removed during backwash. Pour DE slowly at the skimmer. Be careful of wind direction as to not breathe in any DE. Adding DE has no impact on the stabilizer in the water.

I re-tested it and found the FC to be still at 0.2 ppm and I can still see the black dot, although little blurry now when filled up until 30 ppm.

I believe these are two statements: FC at 0.2 and CYA at 30. As long as the black dot is gone at 30 that's good. If you can still see the dot the CYA is low and you should add another 10 ppm. BUT, give it another day or two now that you just added stabilizer.

As for the FC, you need to increase it right away. An FC of 0.2 is practically zero. Your FC should be somewhere around 5-7 ppm. Use liquid chlorine to increase it right away. You don't want to get algae.

 

[Sid432]

Hi @Texas Splash

So, I have been pouring liquid Chlorine and the FC testing still showing < 2 ppm and CYA is still <30 (although it didn't dissolve all the stabilizer). I have backwashed yesterday and today and the pressure seems to have returned back. Currently, my pool turned from far green to still light blue/tealish

I still have some dry powder of stabilizer which seems to dissolve little faster when I put it in skimmer wrapped in cloth

Keep continue to add chlorine ? Should I add dry shock instead or anything else ?