Help, my pool is green :(

[Novabec]

So I think I have figured out where I went wrong but I want to make sure I fix it correctly. I have had this pool for 3 years and it has always been so easy. I have always used tablets in a float to chlorinate without issue, well I must have had some without stabilizer previously so I didn’t realize the issue they can cause. This summer (on a new bucket of chlorox xtra blue, never used this brand before) all year I have battled high FC and CYA. Today I rolled back my solar cover to find a green pool. I was dumbfounded as to how I could have high chlorine and algae. I’m assuming the CYA (been between 100-120 all summer) is tying up my chlorine. I took out the tablets added a gallon of bleach (it’s all I had), backwashed, brushed it (came off super easy), and am running the filter all night. Will drain some water tomorrow and refill to lower CYA, but how much to drain? And then what do I do from there to get things cleared up?

 

[PoolStored]

CYA reduction is 1:1. If you have CYA 100, you need to drain and replace 50% to get to 50 CYA.

I would recommend you do the diluted CYA test, Bullet 8 in this instructions set, to get an accurate CYA:

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric Acid (CYA) is the chemical name for what is commonly referred to as Stabilizer … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

Post the diluted test results and we will help you with how much to drain.

How to drain? Read section 3.5 "no drain water exchange"...

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

After you have exchanged your water, follow this process. Print it out, read it three times, keep it with you at all times. Link-->SLAM Process

These steps will clear your pool.

Proof-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

Go Blue!!!

 

[PoolStored]

How old are your reagents?



Recommended FC for CYA of 100 is 11-13.

You did not have enough FC to kill algae. You need to follow my instructions from last post and reduce your CYA.

 

[aussieta]

add some bicarb while you are at it
ph 6.6 with high fc is most likely less than 6
target 7.5 and then adjust once fc is below 10

 

[aussieta]

just looked at your pool logs
if your cya was 120, 10 months ago
you can assume it is closer to 200 now

 

[kellyfair]

I wouldn’t add bicarb with a PH of 7.1 and TA of 80. The PH can be raised if needed by aerating water (splashing) and won’t affect TA. But actuallly, you want a PH of about 7.2 for SLAM anyway.

 

[Novabec]

just looked at your pool logs
if your cya was 120, 10 months ago
you can assume it is closer to 200 now

I live in Michigan, 10 months ago was before seasonal closing (and I think I opened these chlorine tabs right at the end) it was drained down to half and refilled after that in the spring.

 

[Novabec]

How old are your reagents?

View attachment 525168

Recommended FC for CYA of 100 is 11-13.

You did not have enough FC to kill algae. You need to follow my instructions from last post and reduce your CYA.

Those aren’t current results, those are from 3 weeks ago.

 

[Novabec]

Those aren’t current results, those are from 3 weeks ago.

Oh reagents are 2 years old, I use the kit recommended by you guys and store it at controlled temps. I was planning on a new one in the spring but with the extra testing I am ordering one now. I didn’t want to get one now just to sit all winter but change of plans.

 

[Novabec]

My

I wouldn’t add bicarb with a PH of 7.1 and TA of 80. The PH can be raised if needed by aerating water (splashing) and won’t affect TA. But actuallly, you want a PH of about 7.2 for SLAM anyway.

PH isn’t 7.1 that’s an old number. I posted yesterdays results.

 

[kellyfair]

My

PH isn’t 7.1 that’s an old number. I posted yesterdays results.

Ah. I still wouldn’t use bicarb. I’d let the chlorine drift down under 10, then test your PH. Once you know your actual PH, if it needs raising, aerate and then when you are around 7.2, start SLAM.

 

[Brian PacNW]

CYA reduction is 1:1. If you have CYA 100, you need to drain and replace 50% to get to 50 CYA.

I would recommend you do the diluted CYA test, Bullet 8 in this instructions set, to get an accurate CYA:

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric Acid (CYA) is the chemical name for what is commonly referred to as Stabilizer … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

Post the diluted test results and we will help you with how much to drain.

How to drain? Read section 3.5 "no drain water exchange"...

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

This still seems like good advice.

 

[Novabec]

CYA reduction is 1:1. If you have CYA 100, you need to drain and replace 50% to get to 50 CYA.

I would recommend you do the diluted CYA test, Bullet 8 in this instructions set, to get an accurate CYA:

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric Acid (CYA) is the chemical name for what is commonly referred to as Stabilizer … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

Post the diluted test results and we will help you with how much to drain.

How to drain? Read section 3.5 "no drain water exchange"...

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

After you have exchanged your water, follow this process. Print it out, read it three times, keep it with you at all times. Link-->SLAM Process

These steps will clear your pool.

Proof-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

Go Blue!!!

Well since you said go blue I know I can trust your advice. You aren’t a shady state fan
My diluted CYA is 140. New test kit will be here Tuesday and I work 12 hours tomorrow and Monday so after today I will only be able to do limited things with it until Tuesday anyway. It will probably take all of today to drain and refill. I’m running out now to get lots of liquid chlorine, is there anything else I should grab while I am out? And besides draining and refilling (how much should I drain?) is there anything else to do until then? If I can get it done today I will retest and post results but I’m not sure if that will happen since I think I need to likely drain more than I was hoping.

 

[PoolStored]

Replace 75% of your pool, or 6300 gallons.

Don't drain it. Do a no drain water exchange. Section 3.5 here:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Novabec]

Replace 75% of your pool, or 6300 gallons.

Don't drain it. Do a no drain water exchange. Section 3.5 here:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

I read that but was overwhelmed. I don’t know the temp of water going in and I don’t have a deep/shallow end. It’s just an AG Intex pool so I can drop it pretty low without any issues so I’m just doing a drain and refill. Other than damaging plaster or popping out of the ground is there any benefit to an exchange vs what I’m doing? This way I know exactly what is coming out and getting replaced.

 

[kellyfair]

I read that but was overwhelmed. I don’t know the temp of water going in and I don’t have a deep/shallow end. It’s just an AG Intex pool so I can drop it pretty low without any issues so I’m just doing a drain and refill. Other than damaging plaster or popping out of the ground is there any benefit to an exchange vs what I’m doing? This way I know exactly what is coming out and getting replaced.

You are ok draining your Intex, just watch your frame to make sure it doesn’t collapse. You don’t have to drain completely. You’ll need to SLAM no matter what, so leave some water in there.

 

[Novabec]

You are ok draining your Intex, just watch your frame to make sure it doesn’t collapse. You don’t have to drain completely. You’ll need to SLAM no matter what, so leave some water in there.

I bought a 10 gallons of chlorine and PH increaser just to have on hand. Should I be doing anything now other than draining and refilling? It will probably take all of today and tomorrow to get it filled back up? Obviously I can’t run the filter until that’s completed.

 

[kellyfair]

Nope, nothing else until you are full. Use Pool Math once full to figure out how much chlorine to add to bring you to 5 FC. Ok to assume you are starting at 0 FC, and estimate CYA based on how much water you drained.

PH increaser is expensive baking soda. I would get your money back and don’t mess with PH until you are full and can run all your tests. Post your results here and we will help you decide on steps to take, if any, before SLAM.

 

[Novabec]

Ok so we drained at least 2/3, refilled, and have the pump running 24/7. Im in the middle of 12hr shifts so I had my husband throw in a gallon of chlorine when he started the pump. I just got home and tested and am super annoyed that my CYA was still 90. I tested it again on dilution and got 70. Do I need to drain it again?

 

[PoolStored]

my CYA was still 90. I tested it again on dilution and got 70. Do I need to drain it again?

You got a 70 with the diluted test? Meaning that your CYA is still 140? Or diluted was 35 meaning your CYA is 70. Can you clarify?

If you got 70 on the diluted, for a total CYA of 140, then I would run the pump and maybe jump in the pool and mix the water around...a bunch, then retest. It may be that the water is stratified and not mixed yet and you grabbed a sample from the old, unmixed water.

If you got 35 on the diluted, meaning your CYA is truly 70, that is likely because you didn't actually replace 2/3s, you only replaced 1/2. You have a choice...either replace about 20% or SLAM at 70. Given the size of the pool, I'd replace some more water...