Help Green Pool, Slaming now but after a day @ 20 ppm FC still very green

May 29, 2018
7
Littleton, co
Help Green Pool Slaming now but after a day @ 20 ppm FC still very green.

I have had fairly high cya all summer but through evaporation and backwashes have gotten it down to 50 cya
Daily have been keeping the FC around 8 daily adding bleach 64oz daily.
Missed a day and took the cover off the other day and clear water but green algae all over the bottom giving it a green tinge.
Started Slamming last night. Dropped 134fl oz of 5% bleach in, tested ~ 20 fc. Tested 13.5 fc this morning so it is killing something.
Dang... running low on fas-dpd powder and 871 titrating agent. Ordered yesterday on Amazon.
My pressure typically runs 9 psi but I noticed it dropping down to 5.
Soon as I started vacuuming with Kreepy Krauley the water goes cloudy green and still is this morning.
Ran filter and vacuum until 9pm last night....

I am thinking there is an issue with proper sand filtering through 18" meteor sand filter. with 1.5 hp pump.
I think usually the green cloud begins to clear a bit after 12 hours of filter/vacuum.
I hate to open the filter up and deal with it but need instructions to tune it up.
I attached a skimmer filter sock to the return into the pool and I am getting some trace debris and green tinge in it as well.
Maybe somehow I lost a lateral but it hasn't been moved just back-washed and rinsed. Probably to often.
I have added DE to it multiple times after back washes and find that only a 1/4 cup will create a 1 psi rise or more even though I have read it should be about a cup or more.

Please share your expert thoughts.... Todd Littleton, CO
PS... The Mrs. is ****** I let her pool go green....


Sand was installed 2014 season and then the pool was taken down for 2 years and not used
until this year May.
 
Welcome! :wave: Well, algae means you need to continue a TFP SLAM Process. Maintaining that proper FC of 20 (for a CYA of 50) as noted on the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] is critical. Remember a SLAM Process most often takes several days to complete it, so patience is important. As for the filter, you may need to do a Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter to ensure the sand isn't compacted, channeled, or filled with junk that couldn't get removed from a normal backwash. Do your best to maintain that FC level and follow all the notes on the SLAM page and you'll do well.
 
Thank you Tex for the link to sand filter deep cleaning....The last time I opened up the sand filter the grill on the bottom of the multiport around the stand pipe would not hold in place and just fall down on to the top of the sand media. Is it needed ? Should I take it out all together or find a way to screw it in place like I saw in the 3rd picture of the deep clean post? Or buy a replacement from pentair? I remember I had a tough time getting the multiport clamp back on last time I had it off. I had to get a longer machine screw to get the clamp nut started.
 

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Honestly, I can't say 100% what impact you might encounter by using the filter without that lower guard portion. I would be inclined to try and screw it back on. I suspect it helps to prevent larger debris from getting pulling into the multiport valve.
 
I opened up the sand filter and that multiport guard actually stayed in place where it should even though most of the clips were broken.. The sand had a very little amount of debris in it. The sand was pea soup green. When I reached down inside the laterals were only about a 1/2" inch below the top level of sand. I am thinking that is why it was not filtering well. Lateral inspection found no issues. So I am rinsing laterals, sand and sand tank and going to re-assemble.

It is kind of irritating to me that the Meteor Filter User manual just says the sand amount to fill is 60 to 100 lbs..... Dry Sand? Wet Sand?
Why wouldn't they specify minimum inches down from the top of the stand pipe?

Does anybody have an idea on that distance?

Hopefully it will filter better when it is back together, so I can get back to slamming. Wish me luck.... Thank you
 
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