Help getting started with Intex SWG pool

[btreadway93]

Hey there!

My husband and I are new pool owners and we’re not off to a great start!
I found this website after we already bought everything, so I’m trying to correct some things as quickly as possible. I’m currently slamming our pool because of light green/teal water and a CC of 1.5.
Our filter/sand was delayed being delivered and I didn’t add enough chlorine to start so here we are. Anyway, I’ve got SLAM started so my questions pertain to after I get the water clear again. We have an 8,600 gal above ground vinyl pool. The filter is a pump/sand filter and SWG combo. It’s the Intex QS 2100. I learned after the fact that it’s probably a little too small to generate enough chlorine. It’ll put out 5ppm over a 24hr period. Here’s my questions:

Can I do a combo of the SWG and top off with liquid chlorine to stay at my ideal FC range? My CYA is at 60 right now, so I need to be in the 4-9 range for FC. If I can do a combo method, will that change my targets for CYA/FC? I’d like to run the pump for 12 hours, which would put me around 2.5ppm and then add however much liquid I need to reach my target. Is this doable?

How long do I need to track so I can get a good idea of my chlorine loss? A week? And when do I test that each day? Before sunrise and right before sunset? Sorry if that was in the pool school section. I’ve read so much, it’s all run together.

My husband is the GM for our local water company. He can get HTH, which is 65% liquid chlorine. Is this ok to use? This is not the same thing as the HTH pool products.

I have a TF100 salt test kit for reference. Thanks for any help!

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Yup- you can add liquid chlorine to top off your undersized SWG as needed, or any time you need an instant rise in chlorine, say someone dropped their beer in or kids are in who might pee. Your SWG works like the Hare and the Turtle- the SWG is the turtle and it goes and goes adding FC in bits slow and steady. The Hare on the other hand is the liquid chlorine. Bam! gets the job done!

It doesn't change your desired levels. Track for a few weeks, doing the testing frequently (*even just the FC/CC daily at first to be safe). See how your SWG performs, then work from there. As the summer progresses you'll tweak how much you need to add.

2 ounces of 65% chlorine in your sized pool =1ppm FC. I'm concerned you'll need to dilute it so it doesn't hit the liner and bleach it out? Lemme ask a smart chem guy: @Newdude

Maddie

 

[Newdude]

My husband is the GM for our local water company. He can get HTH, which is 65% liquid chlorine

To my best knowledge chlorine isn't stable in water above 14% or so. Its 12.5% by the time it gets to the store so thats what its sold as.

65% is a common strength for Cal-Hypo (powder) Or. 6.5% is basically chlorox strength if liquid. Any chance we can get pics of the label with the ingredients ?

Can I do a combo of the SWG and top off with liquid chlorine to stay at my ideal FC range?

Yes for normal maintaining. 5 FC per day will likely be enough almost all of the year. It would take a record breaking even for TX heatwave and even then it would be short lived and you'd be back to 3 or 4 FC daily loss.

If the FC ever needs a *now boost*, use liquid chlorine. It may be a high UV day, a party, a storm, it doesn't matter why, just spike it now when needed.

My CYA is at 60 right now, so I need to be in the 4-9 range for FC.

Forget the range. It messes too many people up IMO. 4ppm may be a week-long supply in the early season, but a 5 hour supply in July mid day.

Focus on minimum and making enough FC per day to remain free and clear on the good side of it.

Remember that your cell takes 24 hours to make 5ppm, but may lose it over 6 or 8 hours. There is a chunk of the day you will be losing more than you make, so run a healthy buffer of wiggle room above min.

How long do I need to track so I can get a good idea of my chlorine loss? A week?

A week will give you a good idea of where we are at now. Daily loss will slowly increase until mid season, level off for a while, then sloooooowly decrease for the back half of the season. Think of a bell curve.

And when do I test that each day? Before sunrise and right before sunset?

Any test time is ok, even mid day. But recognize the time of day in regards to today's loss. For example, an 8 AM test has not seen today's UV loss. A 5 PM test has lost most of it already and you will produce all night to make it back before tomorrow's loss. A test at lunch has probably lost about half of today's loss, will dip some more, then start gaining late afternoon.

Forsee what will happen between this test and the next when setting the SWG, letting it be, or dosing with liquid chlorine.

 

[btreadway93]

Thank you both for the help! I really appreciate it. I will ask him if he can get me a pic of the label. He also mentioned a lower strength so we may need to go that route. I’ll see if I can get better info on both options.

 

[JamesW]

He can get HTH, which is 65% liquid chlorine.

HTH is calcium hypochlorite, which is a powder, not a liquid.

 

[Newdude]

They make 10% bleach and every other possible chemical as well.



The OP stating 'its not the pool kind' may be their own line of chemicals for commercial use, or it is the same stuff and they were told it was special.



Remember that cleaning supply OP who thought his 500 ppm bleach was extra strong ? Just like that.

 

[JamesW]

HTH originally stood for "High Test Hypochlorite" and only referred to calcium hypochlorite.

It has now become a brand name for a whole line of pool chemicals.

1928 – hth® the birth
A new plant was built at Niagara Falls and after many years of work, the Mathiesons developed a true calcium hypochlorite as a new chlorine donor.

As a result of this development, the hth® brand was first registered in 1928.

The name hth® originated from the new chlorine formula, meaning high test hypochlorite.

hth® is one of the world's leading water treatment companies for public and private pools and spas

Under the brand name hth®, established in 1928, Innovative Water Care Europe (Solenis Group) manufactures and markets a wide range of products for the disinfection of swimming pool water (based in particular on calcium hypochlorite) as well as auxiliary t

www.hthpiscine.fr

 

[btreadway93]

Sorry, I did misunderstand him. It is a powder. But it’s not a pool product. It’s stuff they use for the water supply. (Drinking water) Can I use that in my pool instead of liquid chlorine or would it be too strong?

I tried to do some math to get an idea of what I may spend in liquid each month, but I haven’t tracked numbers long enough to know what I’ll need to add. Around how much would a normal daily amount be to add, if my SWG can do 2.5ppm each day?

 

[Newdude]

It is a powder

65% Calcium Hypochlorite ? If so thats pool strength, albeit that one has a different original purpose in mind. But in the end its all good.

Still get us a pic of the label.

Use PoolMath to see the effects of adding once you download the app and set up your pool details. Effects of adding is in the upper left menu once the app is open. For example, if it is 65% cal-hypo, this is what each pound will add to the pool

Around how much would a normal daily amount be to add, if my SWG can do 2.5ppm each day?

Some run the 12 hour cycle twice for 5ppm.

Or 2.5 ppm is enough for the beginning and end if the season and in the middle you will need up to 2 ppm more depending on the weather that week. 1 lb / 9 FC would probably last you a week most weeks.

 

[btreadway93]

Yes, that’s what it is. He’s gonna get a pic next time he’s in the office.
That’s helpful, thank you!
If I do that, it’s gonna raise my salt right? So would I have to drain and add fresh water if it gets too high? I know CH isn’t too much of an issue with vinyl, but if it slowly creeps up, I’d have to add fresh water as well.
Sorry for all the questions! I guess I’m just trying to figure out how to do salt and chlorine together without adding too much salt. I’m at around 2,800ppm for salt right now. My SWG recommends 3,000.

 

[Newdude]

If I do that, it’s gonna raise my salt right? So would I have to drain and add fresh water if it gets too high?

It will add calcium and salt, but not alot of either. 20 weeks of 1 pound a week would be 200 salt or 120 calcium. Neither would be an issue if you started in range.

I guess I’m just trying to figure out how to do salt and chlorine together without adding too much salt.

Chlorine in any form breaks down into salt, but it probably won't become an issue because you get some rain and that will dilute it at a similarly slow rate.

 

[btreadway93]

It will add calcium and salt, but not alot of either. 20 weeks of 1 pound a week would be 200 salt or 120 calcium. Neither would be an issue if you started in range.


Chlorine in any form breaks down into salt, but it probably won't become an issue because you get some rain and that will dilute it at a similarly slow rate.

Thank you! I’m starting to understand how it all works. Appreciate the help!

 

[JamesW]

TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

The people who answer questions are volunteers.

If you find the site to be a good resource, please consider making a donation to help support the site.

Thanks.

Become a TFP Supporter

Help Support TFP Trouble Free Pool is run by a dedicated group of volunteers that … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com