Help - brand new IC60 is under-performing Pool Math prediction by ~50%

RickRude

Gold Supporter
May 16, 2022
150
Dallas
Pool Size
21500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I have a brand new Pentair Intellichlor IC60. The past four evenings have been the first times I've used it. And four evenings in a row I have fired it up after dark at a percentage and duration that, according to Pool Math, should raise FC by 2.5 ppm. But I am getting 1.5 to 1.0 ppm instead. I checked each morning when the sky was still dim and there was no direct sunlight on the pool. Any ideas what might be going on?

Relevant facts
  • Salt level up to 3400 ppm according to my TF Salt bundle. Salt brand was Diamond Crystal "Splash Ready".
  • I ran a normal OCLT as recently as 8/12 and lost zero ppm. The water got slightly cloudy after adding salt - noticeable to a TFPer. The TFP Wiki says this can be normal. And indeed after 24 hours it was clear again.
  • SWG is run by the 5A relay switch on my brand new Intelliflow 3's I/O board.
  • Pump is set to 12.5% speed when SWG is running
  • For each of the first three nights, I confirmed that all the correct lights were on the SWG and bubbles were coming out of at least 1 return after the program kicked on at 830 pm. The bubbles "pop" when I hold a lighter to them.
  • The 4th night, I didn't start the program until after midnight (thinking perhaps they program had turned off at midnight due to some software bug or user error), so I didn't visually confirm.
  • I have not visually confirmed the program is still running just before the programmed end time - not awake yet
My Pool Math logs document the situation.
  • 8/11 into 8/12 - OCLT passed
  • 8/13, 8/14, 8/15 - Run IC60 at 60% for 9 hours over night.
  • 8/16 - Run at 100% for 5.4 hrs
Ideas what might be happening or things to check.
  • Run another OCLT just to rule that out
  • Increase flow rate during SWG program (maybe my Chlorine isn't dissolving totally?)
  • Could it be wired wrong? LIke maybe 120V is going in, but it's wired for 240?
  • Some obstruction in the cell?
  • Deceptive PB actually gave me an IC40 but swapped the stickers (kidding...or am I?)

Anything else? Thank you all.
 

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I have a brand new Pentair Intellichlor IC60. The past four evenings have been the first times I've used it. And four evenings in a row I have fired it up after dark at a percentage and duration that, according to Pool Math, should raise FC by 2.5 ppm. But I am getting 1.5 to 1.0 ppm instead. I checked each morning when the sky was still dim and there was no direct sunlight on the pool. Any ideas what might be going on?

Relevant facts
  • Salt level up to 3400 ppm according to my TF Salt bundle. Salt brand was Diamond Crystal "Splash Ready".
  • I ran a normal OCLT as recently as 8/12 and lost zero ppm. The water got slightly cloudy after adding salt - noticeable to a TFPer. The TFP Wiki says this can be normal. And indeed after 24 hours it was clear again.
  • SWG is run by the 5A relay switch on my brand new Intelliflow 3's I/O board.
  • Pump is set to 12.5% speed when SWG is running
  • For each of the first three nights, I confirmed that all the correct lights were on the SWG and bubbles were coming out of at least 1 return after the program kicked on at 830 pm. The bubbles "pop" when I hold a lighter to them.
  • The 4th night, I didn't start the program until after midnight (thinking perhaps they program had turned off at midnight due to some software bug or user error), so I didn't visually confirm.
  • I have not visually confirmed the program is still running just before the programmed end time - not awake yet
My Pool Math logs document the situation.
  • 8/11 into 8/12 - OCLT passed
  • 8/13, 8/14, 8/15 - Run IC60 at 60% for 9 hours over night.
  • 8/16 - Run at 100% for 5.4 hrs
Ideas what might be happening or things to check.
  • Run another OCLT just to rule that out
  • Increase flow rate during SWG program (maybe my Chlorine isn't dissolving totally?)
  • Could it be wired wrong? LIke maybe 120V is going in, but it's wired for 240?
  • Some obstruction in the cell?
  • Deceptive PB actually gave me an IC40 but swapped the stickers (kidding...or am I?)

Anything else? Thank you all.
I think you need to do the test at 100, I didn’t think the calculator took into account the duty cycle of the saltwater chlorinator but maybe it does be something I would confirm since it looks like you did 60% of what you expected and the power setting was also 60% which is an odd coincidence.
 
Duty cycle of an Intellichlor is 5 minutes. So should have little effect.

I would be hesitant to measure the accuracy of chlorine production over a short period.

I suggest just getting the SWCG adjusted (% and run time) to satisfy your FC needs. Run it and over the next few weeks see how it averages out.
 
Are you testing using a 10ML sample or 25ML sample?
 
Are you sure your pool volume is 21,500?
That's the number I got when I did my own survey/calc two years ago. It's worked out well for me with other chem adds the past two years.

I think you need to do the test at 100, I didn’t think the calculator took into account the duty cycle of the saltwater chlorinator but maybe it does be something I would confirm since it looks like you did 60% of what you expected and the power setting was also 60% which is an odd coincidence.
There is definitely a field in Pool Math to enter the pctg. And the 4th night (8/16) was 5.4 hrs at 100%. 5.4 hrs @ 100% gets the same as 60% for 9 hrs.

Duty cycle of an Intellichlor is 5 minutes. So should have little effect.

I would be hesitant to measure the accuracy of chlorine production over a short period.

I suggest just getting the SWCG adjusted (% and run time) to satisfy your FC needs. Run it and over the next few weeks see how it averages out.
You consider 60-to-100 duty cycles a short period? Your suggestion is reasonable though.

Are you testing using a 10ML sample or 25ML sample?
10 ML.
 
In the picture, the cell is showing low salt and zero output. Do you have the ability to see what your cell is reporting?
That is a pic from a couple weeks ago before I added salt. Just a picture of the pad for reference.
I notice a diverter valve below the cell. Are you bypassing some of the water?
That 3 way valve allows me to direct filter output to my waste line. It's not how I would've set it up. But I had already made them correct some other plumbing work so this seemed like it wasn't worth the effort to get fixed. But to answer your question - it's not cell bypass.
 

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Do you have the ability to see what your cell is reporting?
No, it's not connected to an Intellicenter. All I have to indicate if it's working are the lights on the unit and the bubbles coming out of the returns.
 
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Hello, I am posting one more time in case anyone else has any ideas. I'm running 11.5 hrs a day at 80% to get my 2 to 2.5 ppm per day. According to pool math, that ought to get me 4.3 ppm with an IC-60. I'm essentially running it like an IC40 right now and kinda bummed I paid the premium for the IC60. Thanks for any more advice you can offer.
 
Anecdotally we have had a couple reports that phosphates have inhibited chlorine production from a SWCG. If you want to invest a few more dollars, get a Taylor phosphate test kit and see what yours are. If above a few thousand ppb, then treat with Orenda or SeaKlear remover.
 
Anecdotally we have had a couple reports that phosphates have inhibited chlorine production from a SWCG. If you want to invest a few more dollars, get a Taylor phosphate test kit and see what yours are. If above a few thousand ppb, then treat with Orenda or SeaKlear remover.
Phosphate level came in at 500 ppb. That is a surprising result - I figured the oak tree overhanging my pool and annual shedding events would have driven the number higher. I may get some remover anyways, since I am grasping at straws. Luckily, with things cooling down and my pool getting a lot less sun right now (thanks to the aforementioned oak tree) it's not urgent.
 
Phosphate level came in at 500 ppb. That is a surprising result - I figured the oak tree overhanging my pool and annual shedding events would have driven the number higher. I may get some remover anyways, since I am grasping at straws. Luckily, with things cooling down and my pool getting a lot less sun right now (thanks to the aforementioned oak tree) it's not urgent.
That’s basically nothing. Save yourself the frustration of the pool getting cloudy using that stuff.
 
Phosphate level came in at 500 ppb. That is a surprising result - I figured the oak tree overhanging my pool and annual shedding events would have driven the number higher.

Phosphates don't come from foliage.

Phosphates come from using HEDP based sequestrants that break down into phosphates and fertilizer runoff.

500 ppb is nothing. High phosphates are 5,000 and above.
 
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