Hello from north DFW!

[Green25]

Hello from DFW!

We decided at the beginning of the year to finally build the pool we had wanted for years and are, hopefully, nearly at the finish line after 15 weeks of construction. I didn’t find this site until we had already begun building and while I might have made a few different choices, I can’t wait to use the TFP program once we actually have a pool.

Neither of us has any experience with balancing pool chemicals so we will more than likely have one million questions, but my test kit is all ready to go!

 

[HermanTX]

Welcome fellow Texan!! You will find lots of support in the forums. Once you do your first test please post it. Also post pictures of your finished project. We all love to see new pools. As normal, we would like you to use a proper test kit (see Test Kits Compared ) to give consistency in testing and also please read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and Recommended Levels

 

[Green25]

@HermanTX - we’ve unfortunately had a few minor hiccups but should have our pre-plaster inspection this week and I’m hoping everything goes smoothly. I’ve had my TF-100 kit for over a month and I’m tempted to try it out on our tap water just to practice!

 

[Newdude]

I’ve had my TF-100 kit for over a month and I’m tempted to try it out on our tap water just to practice!

Welcome Green !! This place will help you keep the Green to you name only. Practice away with the tap water. You’ll get a good feel for what to do when it matters, If you’re filing with the hose you’ll know what you’ll need ahead of time, and by going with the TF-100, you have lots of reagents to practice with. The smaller kits seem better being cheaper but you don’t get the extra supplies so every drop counts.

 

[Green25]

Thanks @Newdude. I bought the XL version because I figured we would need lots of practice. Hopefully we’ll have at least a few weeks left to enjoy the season!

 

[Newdude]

I bought the XL version because I figured we would need lots of practice

EVEN better !!! Nice job. Allow me to be the first to tell you to post up your results. Along with any questions. It’s easy peasy if you follow the laminated card that comes with the kit. The card seems confusing at first glance seeing several conflicting tests at once. Pick one test. Do what it says, count the drops, BOOM. Reading.

is the house water filling the pool ? We can get a head start if so.

 

[Green25]

@Newdude - I think you’ve inspired me to break out the test kit. Should I do all the tests, even chlorine?

 

[Newdude]

Yup. CYA Is zero in tap water. You can practice though anyway. The drop chlorine test on the block thingy is no good. Just use the PH side of it. Do the powder test for ‘high’ chlorine.

 

[Green25]

Ok, I didn’t understand anything after the second sentence. Don't use the drop chlorine test?

I also bought a speed stir. Where does that come in?

 

[Newdude]

The one in the block isn’t reliable. It’s basically a liquid test strip. It will tell you that there is chlorine but the amount is sketchy at best. So we use the test with the little powder tub and the white bottle #00871. Use a heaping scoop, enough to have a little that doesn’t mix swirling around. Each drop from the white bottle is half a PPM. 10 drops to go from pink to clear is 5 FC, for example. Then use the yellow cap #00003. Put in 5 drops and if it stays clear, no CC. If it goes pink again immediately, Add drops of the white bottle and each drop is .5 again until it’s clear. Do both these tests rather quickly (but slow drops). If they sit for a while they will go pink for a false result.

 

[HermanTX]

It is always good to do a test of your water that you will put in your pool. That is your baseline. Now be sure to test the water used for the pool and not your tap water in the kitchen. If you have a water softener or a filtration system for your home those test results could be different. Normally your outside taps do not go through a water softener. I have high alkalinity in my fill water thus I know every time I add water my TA will likely go up some.

 

[Green25]

Thank you @Newdude! Whoops, I used water from the kitchen before reading your post @HermanTX, but I know we don’t have a water softener. Will recheck when we finally fill the pool. I think we messed up the chlorine tests though, it would switch to clear and then back to a slight pink after it sat for a minute so those first two results are questionable.

FC - 1-2ppm?? with dropper test (kinda matches the block test though)
CC or TC - I think we messed this one up. Tap water shouldn’t have CC right? We kept adding drops to the first test when it turned pink after it sat for a minute.
pH - 7.8?
TA - 80
CH - 125
CYA - 0

 

[HermanTX]

The CL drop test (not the block test as you show in your picture) is to be done fairly quickly as it will go back to slightly pink if just put to the side. Refer to the videos that will help
Put in 10ml of water
Put in the powder (it should turn pink) and stir
Count drops as you add R-0871 - as soon as it turns clear stop ( that is count for FC x 0.5)
Then add 5 drops of R-0003 and if it turns light pink immediately then count drops when adding R-0871 again - this becomes your CC (x 0.5). You usually would only add 1 or 2 drops at most of R-0871 for it to turn clear again. If it is more, then let us know.
If after adding 5 drops of R-0003 it is still clear then you have ZERO CC. No need to add R-0871 drops.
If you put this aside it will turn slight pink again - just ignore it - the test needs to be done in quick succession. If you get a phone call or distracted with children then start over again.
You may have some very low CL for tap water, you should not have any CYA. You may or may not have high levels of TA or CH depending on your source water.
Hope this helps.

 

[Newdude]

it would switch to clear and then back to a slight pink after it sat for a minute so those first two results are questionable

This is why you have to be somewhat quick. Don’t rush, but 10 seconds to get your bearings is all you need. As you saw after a minute it may turn again and is no longer valid. Drop until it goes clear, That’s it right there. Add 5 drops of the 00003 and if it turns immediately then drop the 00871 again for CC. If the 5 drops of 00003 don’t instantly change to pink or light pink, dump it, 0 CC.

FC - 1-2ppm?? with dropper test (kinda matches the block test though

The block test is accurate to 1/2 ppm at 2. After that it is no longer accurate. And your pool will never get as low as 2 if maintained properly so it’s a moot test.

CC or TC - I think we messed this one up. Tap water shouldn’t have CC right

You’d be suprised what’s in there. Usually it would be clean. TC is not something we care about. Remove it from your memory.

pH - 7.8?

Best done against a white background or held up to the blue sky. I use my finger across to make a line over each box. Nope it’s darker than that one. Nope it’s not as dark as the next one.

CYA - 0

You ACED it !! For future reference you can redo this test as many times as you like. Suck it back up in the dropper, and try again. The in between #s don’t matter. Only the 10s. Fill right to each line. When the dot disappears, call it. Right now you are filling the whole tube of course at 0.

 

[Newdude]

Whoops, I used water from the kitchen before reading your post

You got the XL. Test all your neighbors too.

 

[Green25]

Thank you both for your help!

I did in fact goof when I tried the dropper chlorine test...I used the paddle handle rather than the scoop to get my heaping amount. I was wondering how long my powder would last at that rate! So this is why we practice! lol.

 

[Newdude]

So this is why we practice

Literally you need to do it 3 or 4 times and you’ll be a pro. Maybe have a small question or need a tweak, but it’s literally counting drops. It ain’t rocket science. Also, do your best to keep the bottles straight upside down when you drop. 45’s or sideways gets different sized drops. Take a second a drop and they will be uniform with repeatable results.