head spinning from all the info......
- Thread starter t2roadrunner
- Start date
To the OP...
Is there a hot tub/spa store around? They sell kits too, and often will carry the Taylor kit and reagents. Or a spa retailer? Maybe there's a pool maintenance company nearby that can help you out?
If you tell us exactly what you've put into the pool up till now these awesome experts can guestimate the CYA because some things are fairly constant insofar-as how much CYA a package of HTH shock adds. So if you added a couple packs of that, we'd know at least that much CYA is in the pool. If you've used any chlorine tablets, tell the size and quantity (brand) and that will give a constant for CYA as well. CYA doesn't dissipate over time, so whatever you've put in stays in till you drain.
If your walmart doesn't have the test on hand, forget it and order the TFP-100. It's not worth the $ (HTH brand) and you'll need the other kit anyway because HTH's test can't tell you what the combined chlorine is. You already have the worthwhile part of that kit, I use it for daily ph and low chlorine testing myself.
Beyond discussing the kit that you can't get today so it hardly matters right now... you have NO CHLORINE in the pool!
Go add bleach now!
Something... anything... I'd dump a whole bottle in if I was in your shoes and expect it to all be gone in a few hours when you test and then do the same thing again later tonight. It's a lot better to waste 10 bux on lots of chlorine than to have to battle algae. In your shoes, overkill wouldn't hurt one bit.
Is there a hot tub/spa store around? They sell kits too, and often will carry the Taylor kit and reagents. Or a spa retailer? Maybe there's a pool maintenance company nearby that can help you out?
If you tell us exactly what you've put into the pool up till now these awesome experts can guestimate the CYA because some things are fairly constant insofar-as how much CYA a package of HTH shock adds. So if you added a couple packs of that, we'd know at least that much CYA is in the pool. If you've used any chlorine tablets, tell the size and quantity (brand) and that will give a constant for CYA as well. CYA doesn't dissipate over time, so whatever you've put in stays in till you drain.
If your walmart doesn't have the test on hand, forget it and order the TFP-100. It's not worth the $ (HTH brand) and you'll need the other kit anyway because HTH's test can't tell you what the combined chlorine is. You already have the worthwhile part of that kit, I use it for daily ph and low chlorine testing myself.
Beyond discussing the kit that you can't get today so it hardly matters right now... you have NO CHLORINE in the pool!
Go add bleach now!Something... anything... I'd dump a whole bottle in if I was in your shoes and expect it to all be gone in a few hours when you test and then do the same thing again later tonight. It's a lot better to waste 10 bux on lots of chlorine than to have to battle algae. In your shoes, overkill wouldn't hurt one bit.
oh, what exactly do you mean by OK range on the HTH 6 way strips? Various colors represent various levels. Do you have any way to post a picture of your 6 way test strips beside the color chart on the box? At about 30 seconds after dipping? And dip about a foot down quickly, don't shake off water. Lay flat and count to 30, compare to color chart (snap photo??).
What HTH says is "ok" is a wide range. Sure, it's in the "ok" range, but the actual levels in relation to each other do make a difference. They aren't accurate, but the different color hues can give us a better idea of where things are actually at. They are hard to read, that's for sure so don't be discouraged.
What HTH says is "ok" is a wide range. Sure, it's in the "ok" range, but the actual levels in relation to each other do make a difference. They aren't accurate, but the different color hues can give us a better idea of where things are actually at. They are hard to read, that's for sure so don't be discouraged.
I agree need to add bleach ASAP. Your SWG may be adding chlorine, but since nothing is registering it is obviously too slow and I am not sure how much "Boost" mode will help. Certainly it will add more but enough ... who knows.
If your CYA is 0 or close to it, you could be reading FC of 0 because the sun is burning it off very quickly after the SWG produces it.
You could try running it overnight and test FC before the sun comes up. If you get a reading you will know the SWG is generating. If you still read 0, then either the SWG is not producing OR you have algae using it up overnight.
BUT, that could potentially give anything growing all night to get worse if the SWG is not working or set too low.
Safe bet to keep clear water would be to add bleach after dark and leave the pump and SWG generating overnight to try to get some FC working
If your CYA is 0 or close to it, you could be reading FC of 0 because the sun is burning it off very quickly after the SWG produces it.
You could try running it overnight and test FC before the sun comes up. If you get a reading you will know the SWG is generating. If you still read 0, then either the SWG is not producing OR you have algae using it up overnight.
BUT, that could potentially give anything growing all night to get worse if the SWG is not working or set too low.
Safe bet to keep clear water would be to add bleach after dark and leave the pump and SWG generating overnight to try to get some FC working
sorry for the confusion... we weren't able to find the HTH test kit. The Aqua chem 6-Way Test strips came from Walmart....we got those when we purchased the pool..so those and the intex strips that came with the saltwater system (3-way test strips by Intex) are all we have. I just tried calling the pool stores that are an hour away to see if they have the test kits, but they are already closed. Will hold off ordering online to see if I can get one tomorrow.... if not, I will order one in the morning. Still need to know if I really need any of those optional items.
As for adding the bleach.... how much...can make a Walmart run if I need more!
As for adding the bleach.... how much...can make a Walmart run if I need more!
Hard to say how much bleach without full test results (BTW, pool stores generally do not seem to carry the FAS-DPD chlorine tests)
Using poolcalculator.com : for a 5000 gallon pool with 0 FC and (assuming) 0 CYA. You would need to put in 104 oz of 6% bleach to reach a FC of 10 (which is the shock value for very low CYA levels). If your CYA is really higher, then you would have a higher shock value and would need more bleach.
If it were me, I would at least put in 1 96oz bottle of 6% if that is what you have. It will work over night (maybe test FC before the sun comes up?), but if CYA is truly close to 0, the sun will burn it off as soon as it comes up.
The problem you will see is that your current FC test probably only goes up to 5, so how do you measure the level near 10? Thus the reason everyone hear always suggests the FAS-DPD chlorine test.
ETA: Also, I have not seen an answer as to what exactly you have put into the pool to date. That would be somewhat helpful before you get some test results.
Using poolcalculator.com : for a 5000 gallon pool with 0 FC and (assuming) 0 CYA. You would need to put in 104 oz of 6% bleach to reach a FC of 10 (which is the shock value for very low CYA levels). If your CYA is really higher, then you would have a higher shock value and would need more bleach.
If it were me, I would at least put in 1 96oz bottle of 6% if that is what you have. It will work over night (maybe test FC before the sun comes up?), but if CYA is truly close to 0, the sun will burn it off as soon as it comes up.
The problem you will see is that your current FC test probably only goes up to 5, so how do you measure the level near 10? Thus the reason everyone hear always suggests the FAS-DPD chlorine test.
ETA: Also, I have not seen an answer as to what exactly you have put into the pool to date. That would be somewhat helpful before you get some test results.
what color was the bottom patch on those strips? Pale almost not colored, or pale orange? (assuming last patch is CYA here).
What looks like 0 on that patch could easily be 20, or 0. Even 30 hardly registers on those. If you had a picture of the test strip next to the color chart it'd be easier to guess if it's really 0 or not.
AND info on any tablets or shock packets you may have put in the pool since filling.
What looks like 0 on that patch could easily be 20, or 0. Even 30 hardly registers on those. If you had a picture of the test strip next to the color chart it'd be easier to guess if it's really 0 or not.
AND info on any tablets or shock packets you may have put in the pool since filling.
back with info in just a minute.... I have typed 2 separate responses regarding what we have put in the pool and when I hit submit, they have just disappeared.....gonna type it in a word document, then copy and paste it so I don't lose it again...give me just a sec!
So far, all we have put in the pool is the 125 lbs. of salt the instructions for the SWG said to add when we first filled the pool. We have run the SWG for 4 hours every evening and the pump for 6 hours. Other than that, we haven’t put a thing in the pool.
We have both gone back and read through all 3 manuals that covered the pool, the pump that came with it and the saltwater system. We haven’t found in any of those where it tells anything else that needs to be added. My bad, I assumed that the salt water system would take care of everything….. you run it according to the time it tells you for the size pool you have and if the levels get low, a code shows up at which time you run the boost cycle. I had no idea that you had to have a science degree to own a pool…. We really do appreciate the help and advice you are all offering, but I have to admit that I am beginning to think I have wasted a bunch of money on something that I am just not going to be able to figure out……almost to the point of tears….
We have both gone back and read through all 3 manuals that covered the pool, the pump that came with it and the saltwater system. We haven’t found in any of those where it tells anything else that needs to be added. My bad, I assumed that the salt water system would take care of everything….. you run it according to the time it tells you for the size pool you have and if the levels get low, a code shows up at which time you run the boost cycle. I had no idea that you had to have a science degree to own a pool…. We really do appreciate the help and advice you are all offering, but I have to admit that I am beginning to think I have wasted a bunch of money on something that I am just not going to be able to figure out……almost to the point of tears….
As ob1quixote, take a deep breath and try to relax. No, the SWG won't take care of everything, but it does greatly reduce the number of things you need to do. We are making good progress today. I know that with a lot of people posting and a lot to try and understand it can easily feel very overwhelming, but you are really doing quite well.
The next step is to add some CYA/stabilizer/conditioner/cyanuric acid, different stores call it different things, check the ingredients and look for something that is 95+% cyanuric acid. The recommended level for use with a SWG is between 70 and 80. Without any CYA in the water you lose all of your chlorine each day to sunlight. Once you add CYA you will be able to maintain a more or less uniform FC level.
The next step is to add some CYA/stabilizer/conditioner/cyanuric acid, different stores call it different things, check the ingredients and look for something that is 95+% cyanuric acid. The recommended level for use with a SWG is between 70 and 80. Without any CYA in the water you lose all of your chlorine each day to sunlight. Once you add CYA you will be able to maintain a more or less uniform FC level.
I am a 2nd year "blue blob" owner, having learned from this site last year. When I filled the blob this year, the first thing I did was add last year's normal daily bleach dose.
CYA is your friend, it is basically sunscreen for your chlorine, keeping the sun from burning it all away before it can cleanse the water.
So, the second thing I did was start adding the proper amount of CYA [in my Leslies pool conditioner] by using the Pool Calculator. Added it in an old sock tied over the pump output jet. Squeezed the sock every day until it was dissolved.
Also added baking soda and borax as the Pool Calculator prescribed, direct after mixing into a 5 gallon bucket.
In short order my water tested out perfect, and I have settled into a daily dose of bleach and have water so clear it can be hard to judge the depth of suspended stuff when I am screening out the stuff that drifts in!
CYA is your friend, it is basically sunscreen for your chlorine, keeping the sun from burning it all away before it can cleanse the water.
So, the second thing I did was start adding the proper amount of CYA [in my Leslies pool conditioner] by using the Pool Calculator. Added it in an old sock tied over the pump output jet. Squeezed the sock every day until it was dissolved.
Also added baking soda and borax as the Pool Calculator prescribed, direct after mixing into a 5 gallon bucket.
In short order my water tested out perfect, and I have settled into a daily dose of bleach and have water so clear it can be hard to judge the depth of suspended stuff when I am screening out the stuff that drifts in!
Sorry if I (we) have thrown too much at you at once ... just trying to be helpful, but maybe to a fault.
Not to sound like a jerk or anything, but since you are new, I want to be absolutely sure ...
You said you run the pump 6 hours and the SWG for 4 hours .... these are at the same time right? Because the water needs to be moving through the SWG for it to function.
The fact you said different times raised a flag and another possible reason for 0 FC. Most basic systems are slaved together on 1 switch/timer so the pump and SWG are always on at the same time and the chlorine output amount is adjusted by a dial as a % output while it is on.
But, based on the fact you have ONLY added salt (which is kind of good as you have not messed anything up with metals, etc and not spent a lot of money of products that you do not need) we can be sure your CYA is 0.
Next play is exactly what the expert Jason said ... get some CYA in the water and your FC level will rise from the SWG (although you probably should add some bleach to help get the FC level up before everything turns green). I believe I have read that many Walmarts will have the stabilizer/conditioner/CYA.
Depending if you find the liquid or powder CYA, there are different methods of adding it to the pool. According to the http://www.poolcalculator.com (check this out if you have not). For 5000 gallons, you need 47 oz (3 lbs) powder OR 121 oz of the liquid to get up to 70 ppm assuming a current level of 0.
Post back with what you are able to find and someone will certainly help you out.
Once you get things started and stable and continue to learn by reading Pool School ... it will become easier. And then you can lounge by your sparkling pool.
Not to sound like a jerk or anything, but since you are new, I want to be absolutely sure ...
You said you run the pump 6 hours and the SWG for 4 hours .... these are at the same time right? Because the water needs to be moving through the SWG for it to function.
The fact you said different times raised a flag and another possible reason for 0 FC. Most basic systems are slaved together on 1 switch/timer so the pump and SWG are always on at the same time and the chlorine output amount is adjusted by a dial as a % output while it is on.
But, based on the fact you have ONLY added salt (which is kind of good as you have not messed anything up with metals, etc and not spent a lot of money of products that you do not need) we can be sure your CYA is 0.
Next play is exactly what the expert Jason said ... get some CYA in the water and your FC level will rise from the SWG (although you probably should add some bleach to help get the FC level up before everything turns green). I believe I have read that many Walmarts will have the stabilizer/conditioner/CYA.
Depending if you find the liquid or powder CYA, there are different methods of adding it to the pool. According to the http://www.poolcalculator.com (check this out if you have not). For 5000 gallons, you need 47 oz (3 lbs) powder OR 121 oz of the liquid to get up to 70 ppm assuming a current level of 0.
Post back with what you are able to find and someone will certainly help you out.
Once you get things started and stable and continue to learn by reading Pool School ... it will become easier. And then you can lounge by your sparkling pool.
For whatever it's worth...
I did a sock full of 20ppm powdered CYA from walmart. In the skimmer. An hour or so later I squished it, lots came out and dispersed. An hour later, same thing and lots more floated away. One more squish and all of it was gone from the sock.
I tested the next day, and again a week later. Levels were exactly the same both readings.
It didn't take a week, once it was floating away from the sock it mixed and registered on the test accurately within 24 hours. Squish, squish, squish the sock. It will be in the water and working if you disperse it manually that way.
I did a sock full of 20ppm powdered CYA from walmart. In the skimmer. An hour or so later I squished it, lots came out and dispersed. An hour later, same thing and lots more floated away. One more squish and all of it was gone from the sock.
I tested the next day, and again a week later. Levels were exactly the same both readings.
It didn't take a week, once it was floating away from the sock it mixed and registered on the test accurately within 24 hours. Squish, squish, squish the sock. It will be in the water and working if you disperse it manually that way.
Good morning, all! First, and most important, I want to tell you all thank you so much for your help! I was getting a bit overwhelmed yesterday, but today is a new day and I feel up to the task of attacking that big bowl of water!
To clarify what I posted about what we have done so far ….. the pump comes on first and runs for about 5 minutes (per the instructions for the SWG), then the SWG kicks on. It states in the SWG instruction book that the SWG needs to run for 4 hours for our size pool and the pump needs to run for 1 hour after the SWG cuts off…..the pump we have has a timer that you can set in 2 hour increments – 2, 4, 6 8 – so, we let the pump run for 2 hours after the SWG cuts off as we have been running them starting at 8pm and didn’t want to have to go out in the middle of the night to cut them off manually.
What we did last night:
1. Turned the pump on (for 5 minutes) set on manual, then turned the swg on boost…which should keep it running for 16 hours – 4x the number of hours you have it set for. I just checked and they are both still running which means they have been running for about 10 hours now.
2. Mixed the apx. 1 ½ qts of 6% bleach that I had on hand with water in a 5 gallon bucket, then walked around the pool pouring it in so it wouldn’t be so concentrated or in only 1 spot. We then put the cover on.
I have copied and pasted all of your responses which show what we need to do now into a word document and printed it off for dh….I have to go back to work today and won’t be able to help with this so I’m sure he will be going to Walmart well-armed with info. When we went yesterday, I was only looking for the test kits so I don’t remember if they had both the powdered and liquid CYA or not. The only thing I truly remember seeing because they had a lot of it was SHOCK and I don’t even know if that is CYA because I didn’t check the ingredients, I just remember seeing it. (Just read back through my notes and see that SHOCK is chlorine so will make sure he knows that is not CYA) This is what I have specifically shown that he needs to look for:
47 oz (3 lbs) powder OR 121 oz of the liquid - CYA/stabilizer/conditioner/cyanuric acid - 95+% cyanuric acid , shock – 3 lbs. and more 6% bleach….
Once he gets the CYA and Shock, what is the best way to add it…..based on I’m pretty sure they are both going to be powder form.
I am planning to order the TF-100 test kit before I leave for work…. Do I need to order any of these..
Optional Items : Speedstir Magnetic Stirrer, Borates Test Strips, Salt Test Strips - Aqua Chek, Taylor K-1776 Salt Test.
I figure I probably need to get the salt test strips or the Taylor K-1776 Salt Test as I haven’t seen and salt test strips anywhere. The SWG came with 3-way test strips and copper test strips, but no salt test strips.
Once we get this thing settled right, should we start running the SWG and pump all day? And do we need to continue adding bleach or CYA ?
Just did one of the 6-way test strips:
Total Hardiness: matched with “100 – Low “
Total Chlorine: matched with “1 – ok†(light pink color)
Free Chlorine: matched with “3 – Ok†(light purple color)
Bromine: same color square as FC: matched with “6 – high okâ€
pH: matched with “7.2 okâ€
TA: matched with “40 – low very lowâ€
Stabilizer: matched with “50 – okâ€
I would take a picture of the chart, but it is on a tall somewhat slim bottle so I can’t get all of it to show up.
Here are the results from the 3-way Intex test strip and I have a picture of this strip laying on the chart I will post (if I can figure out how)
Free Chlorine: matched with 3 (far end of the ok range)
pH: matched with 8.0 (just outside - above the ok range)
TA: looked between 120 – 150 (in the ok range)
Will post picture of that strip if I can figure it out!
ok....this is gonna take me a minute to figure out.
To clarify what I posted about what we have done so far ….. the pump comes on first and runs for about 5 minutes (per the instructions for the SWG), then the SWG kicks on. It states in the SWG instruction book that the SWG needs to run for 4 hours for our size pool and the pump needs to run for 1 hour after the SWG cuts off…..the pump we have has a timer that you can set in 2 hour increments – 2, 4, 6 8 – so, we let the pump run for 2 hours after the SWG cuts off as we have been running them starting at 8pm and didn’t want to have to go out in the middle of the night to cut them off manually.
What we did last night:
1. Turned the pump on (for 5 minutes) set on manual, then turned the swg on boost…which should keep it running for 16 hours – 4x the number of hours you have it set for. I just checked and they are both still running which means they have been running for about 10 hours now.
2. Mixed the apx. 1 ½ qts of 6% bleach that I had on hand with water in a 5 gallon bucket, then walked around the pool pouring it in so it wouldn’t be so concentrated or in only 1 spot. We then put the cover on.
I have copied and pasted all of your responses which show what we need to do now into a word document and printed it off for dh….I have to go back to work today and won’t be able to help with this so I’m sure he will be going to Walmart well-armed with info. When we went yesterday, I was only looking for the test kits so I don’t remember if they had both the powdered and liquid CYA or not. The only thing I truly remember seeing because they had a lot of it was SHOCK and I don’t even know if that is CYA because I didn’t check the ingredients, I just remember seeing it. (Just read back through my notes and see that SHOCK is chlorine so will make sure he knows that is not CYA) This is what I have specifically shown that he needs to look for:
47 oz (3 lbs) powder OR 121 oz of the liquid - CYA/stabilizer/conditioner/cyanuric acid - 95+% cyanuric acid , shock – 3 lbs. and more 6% bleach….
Once he gets the CYA and Shock, what is the best way to add it…..based on I’m pretty sure they are both going to be powder form.
I am planning to order the TF-100 test kit before I leave for work…. Do I need to order any of these..
Optional Items : Speedstir Magnetic Stirrer, Borates Test Strips, Salt Test Strips - Aqua Chek, Taylor K-1776 Salt Test.
I figure I probably need to get the salt test strips or the Taylor K-1776 Salt Test as I haven’t seen and salt test strips anywhere. The SWG came with 3-way test strips and copper test strips, but no salt test strips.
Once we get this thing settled right, should we start running the SWG and pump all day? And do we need to continue adding bleach or CYA ?
Just did one of the 6-way test strips:
Total Hardiness: matched with “100 – Low “
Total Chlorine: matched with “1 – ok†(light pink color)
Free Chlorine: matched with “3 – Ok†(light purple color)
Bromine: same color square as FC: matched with “6 – high okâ€
pH: matched with “7.2 okâ€
TA: matched with “40 – low very lowâ€
Stabilizer: matched with “50 – okâ€
I would take a picture of the chart, but it is on a tall somewhat slim bottle so I can’t get all of it to show up.
Here are the results from the 3-way Intex test strip and I have a picture of this strip laying on the chart I will post (if I can figure out how)
Free Chlorine: matched with 3 (far end of the ok range)
pH: matched with 8.0 (just outside - above the ok range)
TA: looked between 120 – 150 (in the ok range)
Will post picture of that strip if I can figure it out!
ok....this is gonna take me a minute to figure out.
So you can see why people question the strips now right?
Is pH 7.2 or 8.0? ... that is a HUGE and important difference
Is TA 40 or 120+? ... also a big important difference
Stabilizer = 50???? Should be 0 since you said you have not added anything that contains CYA
Total Chlorine (TC) must be equal or greater than Free Chlorine ... so the 1 TC and 3 FC do not make sense. TC = FC + CC (combined chlorine). CC is the bad stuff and you want CC very close to 0. CC is also the stuff that makes a pool smell like chlorine. If your (or someone elses pool) smells, that generally means there are CC present.
Good call on buying the test kit. The speed stir makes things easier to test so you do not have to try to keep swirling the tube while adding drops, but it is not required. You should get something to test the salt level though.
Careful about the "SHOCK" there are different kinds that contain different things ... and some are not chlorine. I would suggest you ignore all the shock for now as it may just confuse the issue.
I would recommend just finding CYA/Conditioner/Stabilizer (whatever they call it) and bleach and maybe muriatic acid or baking soda... that is ALL you should ever need to add to the pool.
The acid and/or baking soda are used to adjust the pH and "indirectly" the TA ...we do not know what you pH is, so we do not know which one you need.
Here is some info for the future just for info at this point:
Once things get settled you probably will not have to run the pump for 24 hours. You will have to play a bit with run time and the SWG output level to maintain the appropriate level of FC for the level of CYA you end up at. After that is done and set, you will just have to monitor the pH and FC levels to make sure nothing is going wrong. SWGs tend to raise the pH, so you may have to add a little acid every few days unless you can get the pH to lock in with the correct level of TA (but don't worry about this yet). The CYA does not get used up, but the level will go down due to splash out and cleaning the filter. Odds are you have to add a little 1/2 times per year. Bleach should only be needed if you need to shock (a verb) your pool due to high bather load, a lot of debris in the pool, a lot of rain, etc. These conditions will start to use up the FC and you either will have to boost your SWG or (and probably better) use bleach to supplement the SWG ... this will help to save the life of the SWG and be a faster addition of FC to avoid the pool going green.
That is enough for now. Things will make a lot more sense when you have good test numbers and you start working with it.
Is pH 7.2 or 8.0? ... that is a HUGE and important difference
Is TA 40 or 120+? ... also a big important difference
Stabilizer = 50???? Should be 0 since you said you have not added anything that contains CYA
Total Chlorine (TC) must be equal or greater than Free Chlorine ... so the 1 TC and 3 FC do not make sense. TC = FC + CC (combined chlorine). CC is the bad stuff and you want CC very close to 0. CC is also the stuff that makes a pool smell like chlorine. If your (or someone elses pool) smells, that generally means there are CC present.
Good call on buying the test kit. The speed stir makes things easier to test so you do not have to try to keep swirling the tube while adding drops, but it is not required. You should get something to test the salt level though.
Careful about the "SHOCK" there are different kinds that contain different things ... and some are not chlorine. I would suggest you ignore all the shock for now as it may just confuse the issue.
I would recommend just finding CYA/Conditioner/Stabilizer (whatever they call it) and bleach and maybe muriatic acid or baking soda... that is ALL you should ever need to add to the pool.
The acid and/or baking soda are used to adjust the pH and "indirectly" the TA ...we do not know what you pH is, so we do not know which one you need.
Here is some info for the future just for info at this point:
Once things get settled you probably will not have to run the pump for 24 hours. You will have to play a bit with run time and the SWG output level to maintain the appropriate level of FC for the level of CYA you end up at. After that is done and set, you will just have to monitor the pH and FC levels to make sure nothing is going wrong. SWGs tend to raise the pH, so you may have to add a little acid every few days unless you can get the pH to lock in with the correct level of TA (but don't worry about this yet). The CYA does not get used up, but the level will go down due to splash out and cleaning the filter. Odds are you have to add a little 1/2 times per year. Bleach should only be needed if you need to shock (a verb) your pool due to high bather load, a lot of debris in the pool, a lot of rain, etc. These conditions will start to use up the FC and you either will have to boost your SWG or (and probably better) use bleach to supplement the SWG ... this will help to save the life of the SWG and be a faster addition of FC to avoid the pool going green.
That is enough for now. Things will make a lot more sense when you have good test numbers and you start working with it.
We had bad storms here last night, so not sure what the condition of the pool is just yet. We have, however, located a pool store only 30 minutes from here and will try to take a sample of the water there this afternoon. Will post results as soon as I can.
Unfortunately, I was already at work and didn't see your post, jblauert. So I didn't see the part about no shock. dh added shock....drat! Well, I am really our computer person and since we can't take it back out, guess we just have to go from here.
btw, I did order the TF-100 test kit, the magnetic stirrer and the salt test strips...sure hope they get here soon!
What we have done now:
1. Added 3lbs of Aqua chem Stabilizer (powder - 100% cyanuric acid) - placed in a sock and used the squishing method to disperse. All of this has been dissolved into the pool
2. Added (1) 1lb. packet Aqua Chem Shock Xtra Blue - mixed in a 5gallon bucket of water and poured in while circling the pool.
Active ingredients in Aqua Chem Shock Xtra Blue:
Sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione: 63.05%
Copper (metallic) derived from copper citrate: .26%
OTHER INGREDIENTS: 36.69% (Great! it doesn't show what OTHER is)
Available Chlorine: 39%
After the boost cycle (16hours) on the SWG, ran it for another 4 hours and the pump running with it, but then the pump an additional hour. We did cut them both off last night as it was quite an electrical storm we had and we didn't want them cutting on and off. We managed to go out during a break in the storm and put the cover on the pool, but that was kind of silly....just walked out there and the cover is now at the bottom of the pool.
I'm just feeling blessed at this point that the water has not turned green! Will do the 3-way drop test before heading to work and post results.......thanks again so much for your help!
Unfortunately, I was already at work and didn't see your post, jblauert. So I didn't see the part about no shock. dh added shock....drat! Well, I am really our computer person and since we can't take it back out, guess we just have to go from here.
btw, I did order the TF-100 test kit, the magnetic stirrer and the salt test strips...sure hope they get here soon!
What we have done now:
1. Added 3lbs of Aqua chem Stabilizer (powder - 100% cyanuric acid) - placed in a sock and used the squishing method to disperse. All of this has been dissolved into the pool
2. Added (1) 1lb. packet Aqua Chem Shock Xtra Blue - mixed in a 5gallon bucket of water and poured in while circling the pool.
Active ingredients in Aqua Chem Shock Xtra Blue:
Sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione: 63.05%
Copper (metallic) derived from copper citrate: .26%
OTHER INGREDIENTS: 36.69% (Great! it doesn't show what OTHER is)
Available Chlorine: 39%
After the boost cycle (16hours) on the SWG, ran it for another 4 hours and the pump running with it, but then the pump an additional hour. We did cut them both off last night as it was quite an electrical storm we had and we didn't want them cutting on and off. We managed to go out during a break in the storm and put the cover on the pool, but that was kind of silly....just walked out there and the cover is now at the bottom of the pool.
I'm just feeling blessed at this point that the water has not turned green! Will do the 3-way drop test before heading to work and post results.......thanks again so much for your help!
Don't worry about the shock, doing that once won't raise the CYA too much especially since you had none before. It won't raise the CYA "that" much this once and over the summer the splash out and additions will negate it anyway.
If the pool isn't green, you're doing great. If you hadn't done what you've done so far... chances are it would be by now so consider that a victory!
Do you have a skimmer on the pool? If so, I wouldn't worry so much about covering it even with a storm as the skimmer should catch most of the stuff. That is assuming you run the skimmer pump full time that is... I never turn mine off. Too much stuff falling into the pool and we don't even have a lot of bugs around here. In the midwest or east I'd be afraid to ever turn it off!
If the pool isn't green, you're doing great. If you hadn't done what you've done so far... chances are it would be by now so consider that a victory!
Do you have a skimmer on the pool? If so, I wouldn't worry so much about covering it even with a storm as the skimmer should catch most of the stuff. That is assuming you run the skimmer pump full time that is... I never turn mine off. Too much stuff falling into the pool and we don't even have a lot of bugs around here. In the midwest or east I'd be afraid to ever turn it off!
Re: head spinning from all the info......TEST RESULTS...fina
Well, we finally managed to get a sample of our pool water to a pool store (no charge - and I can go back every week to verify my own results once my test kit gets here).
Here are the test results:
Total Chlorine 9.0 - High (not sure what to do about this)
Free Chlorine 9.0 - High (not sure what to do about this)
pH 7.0 - Low (add 33 oz. borax)
Total Alkalinity 90 - Low (add 12 oz. baking soda)
Calcium Hardness 100 - Low (add 120 oz. calcium chloride .... not sure what that is)
Stabilizer 30 - Low (add 6.8 oz. stabilizer)
I plugged those figures into the pool calculator to get what needs to be added...in () above by the readings. I must be missing something because I'm not sure what calcium chloride is...hmm. Or what I'm supposed to do to lower TC and FC.
Well, we finally managed to get a sample of our pool water to a pool store (no charge - and I can go back every week to verify my own results once my test kit gets here).
Here are the test results:
Total Chlorine 9.0 - High (not sure what to do about this)
Free Chlorine 9.0 - High (not sure what to do about this)
pH 7.0 - Low (add 33 oz. borax)
Total Alkalinity 90 - Low (add 12 oz. baking soda)
Calcium Hardness 100 - Low (add 120 oz. calcium chloride .... not sure what that is)
Stabilizer 30 - Low (add 6.8 oz. stabilizer)
I plugged those figures into the pool calculator to get what needs to be added...in () above by the readings. I must be missing something because I'm not sure what calcium chloride is...hmm. Or what I'm supposed to do to lower TC and FC.
You have a vinyl liner. Ignore low CH. It's not a problem for you. High CH will still cause scaling, though.
Chlorine will go down all by itself with sunlight. Don't worry.
Chlorine will go down all by itself with sunlight. Don't worry.